I'd not looked closely before. Only noticed it when I was poking around assessing how hard the condenser removal would be.
Pretty confident I didn't do it.
a) failed after I got it back from the dealer (coincidence)
b) the dealer damaged it [after their diagnosis]
c) that it's the actual cause of the leak [their diagnosis that there was a crack in the input line of the condenser - they quoted me a new condenser, not a new high pressure pipe - was badly wrong] I guess it's worth running a vacuum test with the old condenser still installed after I replace the high pressure pipe to confirm this before I go replacing the condenser (I bought a replacement condeser already).
What is also odd is that the high pressure cap is missing off the high pressure pipe, they're the only dealer to every work on the a/c and the dye/R134a should have been applied into the low pressure side (I can see remains of dye on the low pressure connector).
Pipe was easy to get off, new one is $83 from the local Nissan dealer (15% discount): Nissan part# 92440-3NK0A
I'm a bit surprised that there isn't a second stabilizing arm for the high pressure pipe closer to the condenser I wonder if this cracking is a common issue?
I'm also thinking now I'll do the whole job myself. Plenty of people have done so on the Prius forum. I can get ND11 at my local auto parts house
My only question is how much oil to add. The top of page 89 of HA.pdf has the following table:
Replace evaporator 35ml
Replace condenser 15ml
Replace liquid tank 5ml
Refrigerant leakage is detected
- Large amount leakage 30 ml
- Small amount leakage — ml
Lubricant amount that is recycled together with refrigerant during recycle operation [alpha] ml
I'm assuming that puts me around 30ml (large amount leakage) plus 15ml (if I replace condenser).
The other option is to drain the compressor and follow the formula at the bottom of page 89, Obviously there is no R134a in the system so [alpha] would be 0.