My Nissan Leaf Forum

@LeftieBiker Thanks for your input!

If you have Hot (28C+) Summers, you are going to see significantly more loss of capacity, and should then consider selling it.

Thankfully summers here don't usually go over 28 or 30C. Last year we had a heat dome that pushed us to 40C and it sucked, but hopefully that doesn't repeat. And it's not really that hot for super long. In case of a super hot summer, would it be best to not drive the Leaf or to drive it very little?

Thanks for the link to your buying guide!

I'd offer slightly different advice: don't worry about charging to 100% as long as you use the car soon after it's charged, and don't worry about driving it down to 10-20%. Running it to an indicated 0% (actually a bit higher in reality) can let any weak cells in the battery trigger a shutdown, even if you have a significant amount of range left. The car will slow and then shut down to protect the weakest cell(s) in the battery.

So, for example, charging to a 100% in the morning using a DC Fast Charger before a longer drive instead of charging it to 100% the night before at a Level 2 station and leaving it fully charged over night would be the course of action you'd take?

@goldbrick Thanks also for replying!

The advice to stay within 20%-80% charge is meant mostly to prevent the car from sitting at very low or very high states of charge since either extreme is hard on the battery and accelerates its degradation. In either case, time is also a factor so not much damage will be done by charging to 100% if you drive away immediately or running the battery down to 0% if you charge right away.

What you want to avoid is letting the car sit for a long time at very high % SOC or very low % SOC. Under your circumstances, I would focus more on convenience and trying to leave the car between 20% and 80% only when it's parked for a while. If you're driving around feel free to run it from 100% down to 0% if you need to, just don't park it at 99% or 1% for a week and let it sit there.

This goes in line with what LeftieBiker was saying, so I appreciate the consistency and will take both your advice to heart! Thanks!

Thank you both again!!

@cwerdna

Household voltages in the US are most certainly not 140 volts! I doubt they are in Canada. 140 volts coming out of 120 volt outlets could let out the "magic smoke" (http://www.catb.org/jargon/html/M/magic-smoke.html) out of some items.

That was my bad! I totally meant 120V, not 140V. Thanks for your concern and letting me know about the magic smoke. That's concerning!

So, for example, charging to a 100% in the morning using a DC Fast charger before a longer drive instead of charging it to 100% the night before at a Level 2 station and leaving it fully charged over night would be the course of action you'd take?

No, not at all. DCFC heats the battery substantially, while L-1 and L-2 charging don't. We are talking about not leaving the car at 100% for long periods after charging ends, not suggesting that the less time spent charging the better. Leaving it at 100% for a few hours, with a cool battery, isn't a big deal.This does bring up the role of heat in battery degradation, though. Heat above, say, 5 temp bars on the dash display is bad for Leaf batteries - especially older ones - and combining a hot battery with a high state of charge (90-100%) is probably the best way to cause degradation. Or it's a tie between that and leaving a Leaf charged to 100% for weeks or months.

LeftieBiker wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 4:53 pmNo, not at all. DCFC heats the battery substantially, while L-1 and L-2 charging don't. We are talking about not leaving the car at 100% for long periods after charging ends, not suggesting that the less time spent charging the better. Leaving it at 100% for a few hours, with a cool battery, isn't a big deal.This does bring up the role of heat in battery degradation, though. Heat above, say, 5 temp bars on the dash display is bad for Leaf batteries - especially older ones - and combining a hot battery with a high state of charge (90-100%) is probably the best way to cause degradation. Or it's a tie between that and leaving a Leaf charged to 100% for weeks or months.

Ok, I get it. For example, my charge right now is at roughly 59% (drove up a long, steady incline yesterday and it took a bite out of the charge, plus lots of red lights), and if I wanted to charge today knowing I will drive tomorrow, I could charge up to even 100% and be sure that it would be ok, preferably with Level 2 charging. The ones around my place charge at 7.20kW, I think it'd take roughly 7 hrs to charge it fully.
Is it more common for the battery to drain faster at the top of the charge and stay steady in the middle of it longer? Like, you start driving, goes from 11 to 8 bars at the beginning but remains in a 7 to 5 bar range longer than it does at the top?
Thanks again!

Jctz1 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 6:31 pm I could charge up to even 100% and be sure that it would be ok, preferably with Level 2 charging. The ones around my place charge at 7.20kW, I think it'd take roughly 7 hrs to charge it fully.

The bolded part isn't helpful for your car. '11 an '12 Leafs have a "3.3 kW" on-board charger that will pull from the wall at most 3.8 kW.

3.8 kW * 7 hours = 26.6 kWh out of the "wall".

If you wanted to charge faster on L2, you need a 6.6 kW OBC car, which didn't exist until model year '13 (for US: S w/charge package and standard on SV and SL).

cwerdna wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 6:43 pm

Jctz1 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 6:31 pm I could charge up to even 100% and be sure that it would be ok, preferably with Level 2 charging. The ones around my place charge at 7.20kW, I think it'd take roughly 7 hrs to charge it fully.

The bolded part isn't helpful for your car. '11 an '12 Leafs have a "3.3 kW" on-board charger that will pull from the wall at most 3.8 kW.

3.8 kW * 7 hours = 26.6 kWh out of the "wall".

If you wanted to charge faster on L2, you need a 6.6 kW OBC car, which didn't exist until model year '13 (for US: S w/charge package and standard on SV and SL).

I can’t really charge on those for 7 hours since the time limit is 2 hours, so I would never really let the car sit there for 7 hours without supervision, haha. Thanks for that number! It actually helps me calculate how much battery can be recharged in the time I can actually leave it out: 3.8kW * 2 hours = 7.6 kWh, so almost 30% of the charge. That helps with planning, though I know charging tends to slow down towards the “end” of the charge… or is this a misconception?
We don’t really need to charge any faster than that, really, when I said 7 hours earlier I was just trying to estimate time to fully charge (based on the owner’s manual). I really appreciate all of your input, it’s helped a lot with my concerns and thoughts on the car and how to charge and drive it.

Charging does slow down at the top end of the pack, but the 2011/2012 L2 charging rate is slow anyways so you won't really notice much tapering off until you get to high 90% SOC.

For better or worse, you will probably need a lot of small charging sessions. Keeping the battery near 50% SOC will enhance its life so if you can cover your driving by charging every day from 30-70% SOC or something similar it should work well. Everyone's use case is different and hopefully you can find something that works for you. Convenience is also a big factor but if it's easy to charge every day, then that is a good option.

The 2011-2013/2013+ S w/o Charge package charging rate is 3.3kw, so that's about 6.6kwh every two hours. Actually, I think the 3.3 figure includes losses, so probably more like 3.1kw x 2 = 6.2kwh every two hours.

alozzy wrote: Charging does slow down at the top end of the pack, but the 2011/2012 L2 charging rate is slow anyways so you won't really notice much tapering off until you get to high 90% SOC.

Gotcha, thanks a lot for replying to this. What about the battery use becoming more ‘steady’ as it is being used? Is that a thing or am I just being optimistic?

goldbrick wrote: For better or worse, you will probably need a lot of small charging sessions. Keeping the battery near 50% SOC will enhance its life so if you can cover your driving by charging every day from 30-70% SOC or something similar it should work well. Everyone's use case is different and hopefully you can find something that works for you. Convenience is also a big factor but if it's easy to charge every day, then that is a good option.

Excellent, this is all good to know. Thanks!!

LeftieBiker wrote: The 2011-2013/2013+ S w/o Charge package charging rate is 3.3kw, so that's about 6.6kwh every two hours. Actually, I think the 3.3 figure includes losses, so probably more like 3.1kw x 2 = 6.2kwh every two hours.

Oh ok, I’ll adjust my calculations accordingly. Just out of curiosity, does the degradation of a battery mean it effectively holds less charge? Like, a 24kWh battery can become an 18kWh battery when it has 25% degradation?

Just out of curiosity, does the degradation of a battery mean it effectively holds less charge? Like, a 24kWh battery can become an 18kWh battery when it has 25% degradation?

That's exactly what it means. Degradation reduces capacity.

What about the battery use becoming more ‘steady’ as it is being used? Is that a thing or am I just being optimistic?

I don't understand the question, I'm afraid.