My Nissan Leaf Forum

clivech wrote: ↑Mon Sep 12, 2022 2:03 amhow do I get to the back of the CHAdeMO connector to clean up the connections?

Sorry, I have no idea how to; it just seems that the back of the CHAdeMO connector would be the place most likely to be affected by road salt, as it's near the front of the vehicle, and there would be gaps between the wires and the housing where the salt could work its way in.

But as you say, try other things first, as it seems that it's more likely a signalling issue. Now that I think about it, isolation signalling sounds like something possibly internal to the on-board charger, where it tests isolation of the battery from the chassis. This entails isolated op-amps and transmission of the resultant measurement to some ECU somewhere. Maybe the isolation testing is actually inside the battery case; it might even convert the measurements to digital values and transmit them over the CAN bus or other means to the appropriate ECU. It seems like that conversion or transmission is failing.

My philosophy regarding DTC's on any vehicle has always been that I record and then attempt to clear them unless I plan on taking the vehicle straight to the manufacturer dealer/service center. If the error codes are real (permanent), they will come back or not clear at all. If they are related to transient conditions (not permanent), then clearing them will let the vehicle perform normally for at least until the transient condition happens again.

coulomb wrote: ↑Mon Sep 12, 2022 5:56 pm

clivech wrote: ↑Mon Sep 12, 2022 2:03 amhow do I get to the back of the CHAdeMO connector to clean up the connections?

Sorry, I have no idea how to; it just seems that the back of the CHAdeMO connector would be the place most likely to be affected by road salt, as it's near the front of the vehicle, and there would be gaps between the wires and the housing where the salt could work its way in.

But as you say, try other things first, as it seems that it's more likely a signalling issue. Now that I think about it, isolation signalling sounds like something possibly internal to the on-board charger, where it tests isolation of the battery from the chassis. This entails isolated op-amps and transmission of the resultant measurement to some ECU somewhere. Maybe the isolation testing is actually inside the battery case; it might even convert the measurements to digital values and transmit them over the CAN bus or other means to the appropriate ECU. It seems like that conversion or transmission is failing.

Thanks, coulomb. I'm trying to get a dealership to look at it. Presumably they will be able to determine if this is the root of the problem. But finding one with a CHAdeMO charger is proving almost impossible!

GerryAZ wrote: ↑Mon Sep 12, 2022 7:27 pm My philosophy regarding DTC's on any vehicle has always been that I record and then attempt to clear them unless I plan on taking the vehicle straight to the manufacturer dealer/service center. If the error codes are real (permanent), they will come back or not clear at all. If they are related to transient conditions (not permanent), then clearing them will let the vehicle perform normally for at least until the transient condition happens again.

Thanks, Gerry. I'm going to clear the codes this afternoon. I'll let you know!

Ok, cleared the codes but couldn't get a CHAdeMO charger that worked in my town until today. Problem still exactly the same, I'm afraid. I plugged in the CHAdeMO, the app said the charging session was starting, the blue lights on the dash lit up (the battery was about half full), then... nothing. The app said "It seems to be taking longer than usual to start the charging session", then there was a soft clunk and the blue lights went out and the app said charging session failed.

I have finally found a dealer with a CHAdeMO. He's 60 miles away, wants £240 to do a diagnostic, says the car will have to stay with them for up to 2 weeks and it could cost £2000. And then today I noticed the heater wasn't working. Sure enough, 6 diagnostic codes saying PTC Heater Circuit 1-4, heater voltage, heater circuit, Heater Pump Voltage, Heater Pump Comm H/P... So I think it's time to get shut of this vehicle. Clearly I bought a lemon.