I've had this plugged into the USB for years now and for the most part has been trouble free. There were a few times it wouldn't respond and I would unplug it and just let it play till the battery was dead and then it would work fine.
My issue now is that it recognizes the Ipod and I can pick...
Well, I got it. There is some kind of a trick to removing the lock cylinder portion. I'm not really sure what it is, but there is just the torx head bolt that holds it. There is a rod inside that needs unclipped. Then you have to wiggle the cylinder portion just the right way for it to come out...
Can someone tell me how to remove the drivers door handle? I have the door panel off the inside and loosened the screw at the rear of the handle. The lock cylinder portion is loose but doesn't want to come the whole way out.
I've pulled about 1500 pounds of coal plus the trailer weights about 400 pounds (with my coal powered car). It did drop the battery pretty good, but it was cold and I was on some hills.
I had pretty fair response to mine in a local car show. This was at a town festival and the car show was a small part of it, so there were a lot of "non car guys there" . I had a few people ask about it. I always tell anybody that asks it's main attribute it is just about free to run. Not too...
I rotate every 3300 miles (OK 3333.33 miles give or take). With my VW experience that's the only way I've found to keep the rears from cupping. These tires aren't very long lasting and if you only rotate every 7500 their life will be short IMO.
I agree, I have a similar situation on a smaller scale. If I could go to 90% I could be close to 100% by the time I'm off my hill. I would suggest they have it selectable in increments of 5 starting at say 60%. If they are not suggesting that you charge to other than 100% it shouldn't concern...
Mostly true, but they are fine for a Volt. It won't make a big difference, but if they can pick up a few electric miles while they are stopped that's OK.