ebill3
Well-known member
First, be aware that you are not building a device that would meet requirements of the NEC (National Electrical Code). Perhaps your local code allows, but I have no idea.kayakplayer said:Thanks to both of you for the quick responses. I am glad that I posted my question.
Based upon your responses, my understanding is that on a pair of 15Amp circuits, the EVSE may be able to draw up to 15Amps at 240Volts, only 1 Amp under the typical operation of my 2013 upgraded EVSE (thanks Phil, it is working great!). The issue must be that by placing a 15-30R into the unit, it gives the impression that all of the components in the box and power circuit are rated for 30Amps. Is that correct? So somebody in the future might try to run a welder off of the unit by plugging into two 120Volt circuits. You want the L6-20R so the impression is that it can handle up to 20Amps at 240Volts should I find a pair of 20Amp 120Volt receptacles that work together.
I'll skip using the 15-30 receptacle, and buy the cable clamp instead.
Second, as I recall, the reason evseupgrade.com chose the L6-20 connector was not so much for the 20 Amp rating, but for the locking feature, envisioning a secure connection for adapters. 120 volt 20 Amp household circuits are not very common, at least not in my experience.
As I understand the NEC, continuous loads (an EVSE is considered a continuous load) should only be 80% of the circuit rating. Ergo, a continuous load on a 15 Amp circuit should be no more than 12 Amps. Again, your local code may vary.
I use my homebrew quick 220 at 12 Amps for both the LEAF and the Tesla (not at the same time), and sleep very well at night.