Acceptable GID's or SOH for 2015 Leaf?

[naturoses]

Hi All, I am after 2014 and also 2015's, what is an acceptable GID's or SOH for a Leaf which has been on the dealer lots for more than an year?
What is lowest GID or SOH where I can still consider the car?

If I have to measure or take into consideration some others units on leafspy other than GID's (Via leafspy pro) or SOH (Via leafspy lite), please let me know.

Sorry, if it is already posted elsewhere...

Thanks very much!

Edited: Corrected SOC to SOH.

 

[LeftieBiker]

I assume you mean "SOH"? That should be in the 99-100% range. (SOC is just how charged the car is at that moment.) Anything lower should be used to negotiate a lower price. GIDs I don't recall for certain, but I believe it's 281.

 

[naturoses]

I assume you mean "SOH"? That should be in the 99-100% range. (SOC is just how charged the car is at that moment.) Anything lower should be used to negotiate a lower price. GIDs I don't recall for certain, but I believe it's 281.

Using Leafspylite: I saw cars like this: SOH: 98% 393.48V, AHr: 61.29, Hx - 94.66%

 

[naturoses]

I read the below information somewhere here and cannot remember where I copied it from:

Loss of bar 12 - between 53.75 AHr and 56 AHr
Loss of bar 11 - between 49.75 AHr and 52 AHr
Loss of bar 10 - between 45.75 AHr and 48 AHr
Loss of bar 9 - between 41.75 AHr and 44 AHr

Can any one kindly educate me in terms of loss of real world miles with each battery bar lost please...

Thanks

 

[GerryAZ]

On a 24kWh LEAF, loss of 1st bar is at approximately 15% capacity loss. The remaining bars each represent approximately 6.25% loss of capacity. The key word here is APPROXIMATELY--there is significant variation which may depend upon on how the car is driven, charged, and stored.

The distance you can drive on a charge depends upon many factors such as speed, temperature, climate control use, and how comfortable you are driving after receiving low battery warning (LBW) and very low battery warning (VLBW). There is significant range hidden below LBW and VLBW--between 15 and 25 miles on my 2015 (was less on 2011). You are in Boston so climate control (heating) could take significant range. Therefore, I recommend either an SV or SL (2013 or newer) to get the advantage of a heat pump. The A/C does not impact range much, but the resistance heater (2013 or newer S and all 2011and 2012 models) can really reduce your range. Even with the heat pump, the resistance heater will be active when the ambient temperature gets colder than the heat pump can handle. You can probably use 70 miles as a base range estimate with moderate climate control use to calculate mileage loss from each capacity bar. To give you an example, I made my daily 52-mile round trip commute with 8 capacity bars showing (4 lost) for a few weeks until Nissan replaced the battery in my 2011. It was during the summer so I used A/C to be comfortably cool and my commute is mostly freeway (carpool lane). I drove several miles after VLBW each evening so there was not much reserve when I got home.

Gerry