Braking regen issue

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wishboneash

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
100
Location
San Francisco Bay area, CA
The other day I had charge the Leaf to about 90% of capacity since I had a lot of driving to do that day. When I left for work in the morning, the temps were around 15C (59F), not that cold. I was in ECO mode for the drive from the outset. When I braked at signals early in my commute, I noticed that I was getting no braking regen, but I was still getting about 2 "dots" when I lifted off the accelerator completely. Lot of the braking was done by friction and the brakes felt strange, not the usual drag from ECO mode. As my SOC dropped to around 80% or so, I was starting to get more regen on the pedal lift off and then eventually I got my braking regen. So is it true that over some magic number above 80% SOC, braking regen is not being used? I assume there is still a lot to be gained (at least 4-5kWhrs) of energy above 80% from any kind of regen. I thought perhaps something had failed in the regen circuits when I saw this happen, but was relieved to see it working as my SOC dropped. I plan to try this again when I charge up close to 100%. Anyone observe this behaviour?
 
Yes, regeneration is progressively reduced above 80% to avoid overcharging the battery. At 100% charge, there is none. This is normal behavior.
 
At 100% battery, it will feel like a neutral roll, and the braking will feel very touchy (tapping it like you normally do during re-gen feels like slamming on the breaks).

Also, note that the regen circles do not have smaller circles in them. These will appear as you drain the battery. If you are going down a hill, i have actually had these regen intercircles slowly go away...must be making some electricity!
 
I usually charge to 80 percent and have a moderately steep 1,000 foot downhill run from my house in the morning. By the time I get to the freeway where it flattens out, I have usually regen enough to be down to only 1 circle of available regen capacity...


rainnw said:
Also, note that the regen circles do not have smaller circles in them. These will appear as you drain the battery. If you are going down a hill, i have actually had these regen intercircles slowly go away...must be making some electricity!
 
You cant overcharge a battery with regen even if its charged to 100%, because regen is not 100% efficient. The issue is you nasty folk that live on top of a mountain, you start off going downhill with a fully charged battery then regen is not a good idea.. because of you people us Floridians lose our regen :)
 
Herm said:
You cant overcharge a battery with regen even if its charged to 100%, because regen is not 100% efficient. The issue is you nasty folk that live on top of a mountain, you start off going downhill with a fully charged battery then regen is not a good idea.. because of you people us Floridians lose our regen :)
With a 5000 ft. descent from my home to the valley floor, I'm one of those "nasty folk" you speak of... ;-)

I want Nissan to support user-settable SOC values in the charging timers. Then I could easily charge to only 60% or 70% before making the big descent. Currently I have to manually monitor charging and stop it at 8 or so bars. I might consider hacking together a simple application to do this for me by monitoring the Owner's Portal "status" page.
 
I don't get this limitation. There is still a lot of kWhrs to be gained between 80% and 100%. This could improve the efficiency of this vehicle even more for those who have hilly terrain to deal with. I understand close to 100%, you want regen to be turned off. Also, I would like to see user settable SOC in the timer as well as 2 timers PER day instead of the timer 1 or 2 option only.
 
It's all about extending battery life; this is just another example of how Nissan has gone to great lengths to prolong (and guarantee) battery pack life.
 
Stanton said:
It's all about extending battery life; this is just another example of how Nissan has gone to great lengths to prolong (and guarantee) battery pack life.

I agree, and another indication that 100% is either 100% of actual capacity or close enough still to add some disproportionate wear to the battery, making 80% charging the preferred way to go for those of us who drive short distances and have the opportunity to do a lot of opportunity charging.
g
 
Don't forget that when charging to 100% the charging rate tapers off significantly at the end. And that is from a 3.3 kW rate, the most the car's charger can send to the battery. During regen, up to 30 kW can be sent to the battery. You'd better believe they need to throttle that almost completely as the battery gets close to full.

Ray
 
If we take the pessimistic value of 20 usable kWh in the battery, then the 20% going from 80 to 100 represents 4 kWh. Now if I can find a hill big enough to give me a full minute at 30kW regen, that works out to 1/2 a kWh. Doesn't sound like a threat to my battery. But I have to assume they know things that I don't.
 
abasile said:
With a 5000 ft. descent from my home to the valley floor >>>
I want Nissan to support user-settable SOC values in the charging timers. Then I could easily charge to only 60% or 70% before making the big descent. Currently I have to manually monitor charging and stop it at 8 or so bars.
+1. I don't live at the top of a hill, but want to control the charge in the other direction. I often would prefer more charge than 80% and less than 100%, and I want to get this charge between 12M and 6AM when I get the lowest SCE Super-Off-Peak TOU rate. I have tried to use the car's estimate of time-to-100% charge to set the charge timer to give me 11 full bars of charge, but the car's estimate seems much too high. Is this true for everyone? With an early June delivery, my car came with the firmware update that apparently reduced the KWhr size of some or all of the bars. Was the time-to-charge estimate more accurate before the update ?

I would like the option of specifying the target charging SOC in bars rather than %, so the bars you see after a charge are "full". Right now after a 80% charge I start off with 10 bars, but the top bar drops after only .5 to 3 miles. Before the update, 80% represented about 9.6 bars, but it seems less than that with the update.
planet4ever said:
Don't forget that when charging to 100% the charging rate tapers off significantly at the end. And that is from a 3.3 kW rate, the most the car's charger can send to the battery. During regen, up to 30 kW can be sent to the battery. You'd better believe they need to throttle that almost completely as the battery gets close to full.
This taper complicates trying to "interpolate" the time-to-charge estimate. I have observed the taper once at a Chargepoint station that was displaying reduced real-time delivered power near the top, but I have had trouble "capturing" it with my home system (with TED).

Is it possible that restricting the charge via the timers tells the car that you are in a "hurry" and it does little or no taper ? Does anyone have good data on the taper ?
rainnw said:
At 100% battery, it will feel like a neutral roll, and the braking will feel very touchy (tapping it like you normally do during re-gen feels like slamming on the breaks).

Also, note that the regen circles do not have smaller circles in them. These will appear as you drain the battery. If you are going down a hill, i have actually had these regen intercircles slowly go away...must be making some electricity!
I will be looking for these effects when I try some mountain driving soon. Thanks.
 
As long as you are braking to a level within a visible regen circle, are you avoiding all friction braking at that point, or is there some overlap of regen and "real" braking?

I tested the "real" braking on a very gentle 2% incline by putting the car in Neutral. I got a normal braking "feel".
 
mogur said:
I usually charge to 80 percent and have a moderately steep 1,000 foot downhill run from my house in the morning. By the time I get to the freeway where it flattens out, I have usually regen enough to be down to only 1 circle of available regen capacity...

rainnw said:
Also, note that the regen circles do not have smaller circles in them. These will appear as you drain the battery. If you are going down a hill, i have actually had these regen intercircles slowly go away...must be making some electricity!
This morning I charged an extra 40 min at L2, on top of 80% charge done last night, giving me 11 bars. I have seen warnings in other threads to avoid frequently "toping off" the "tank," but I interpret this to mean battery reversals (charge-discharge-charge) near the top are bad. Adding more charge to the charge done over-night is OK as long as the car is not driven between charges. Two charge periods interrupted by a pause is no different than one continuous charge period.

This principle, that battery reversals are bad near the top of SOC, is why the smaller Prius battery, being frequently charged and discharged at 8C or more, is kept to a small range near the center of its capacity. Since the Leaf usually operates within +- 1.5C, it can operate over a much larger fraction of its total capacity, but it still should be limited near the very top of its SOC.

After the charge the display showed double regen circles for all but the left-most circle.
After driving 4.0 actual miles, I dropped to 10 full bars, at which point I got the last double-circle, indicating maximum available regen. Is this about when other folks get to maximum regen ?

Next I drove down a short but moderately steep slope in ECO and 2 circles of regen seemed adequate with no friction braking. These tests indicate to me that if I arrange things so that I get back to a maximum of 11 bars on a long decline, I will still have some regen braking. Is this consistent with other people's experience, or is 11 bars too high? Is this number different pre and post the firmware update ?

In order to estimate how much room you need to leave for regen before beginning a long descent, my first thought was to just compute
PE = A*1.3*.85, where:
A = altitude change in 1K feet,
PE = potential energy in KWhrs,
1.3 is the weight factor for the Leaf,
.85 is the efficiency factor I am assuming for the regen itself.

However, for most roads this would over-estimate the allowance needed. There are 3 categories of descent: In the first, a road with an incline of 2-3% seems enough to keep the car rolling at 15-30 mph at the power-neutral circle. If the road allowed 30-45 mph, an incline of perhaps 4% could keep the car steady. Under these ideal conditions there is no regen and no regen loss, just 100% conversion of potential energy into motion dissipated by rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag. No charging allowance would be needed for this category.

For steeper inclines, category 2, some regen (with its efficiency loss) would be needed, and the formula above would apply. Roads with even more incline, category 3, would require some friction braking (100% loss) (probably at tight turns on switch-backs), which would consume additional potential energy that would not be put back into the battery. To arrive at an accurate estimate, one needs to estimate how much of the road is of each type.
 
tbleakne said:
In order to estimate how much room you need to leave for regen before beginning a long descent, my first thought was to just compute
PE = A*1.3*.85, where:
A = altitude change in 1K feet,
PE = potential energy in KWhrs,
1.3 is the weight factor for the Leaf,
.85 is the efficiency factor I am assuming for the regen itself.
In my case - to get down about 500 ft - the formula indicates about 0.5 kwh. I don't think that is correct.

I've to drive about 3.5 miles to get to the place where the 11% decline starts - that means I'd have used more than 0.6 kwh to get there. But whenever I start at 100% charge, I get hardly any regen going down the slope.

That is the reason I've switched to 80% charging.
 
evnow said:
tbleakne said:
In order to estimate how much room you need to leave for regen before beginning a long descent, my first thought was to just compute
PE = A*1.3*.85, where:
A = altitude change in 1K feet,
PE = potential energy in KWhrs,
1.3 is the weight factor for the Leaf,
.85 is the efficiency factor I am assuming for the regen itself.
In my case - to get down about 500 ft - the formula indicates about 0.5 kwh. I don't think that is correct.

I've to drive about 3.5 miles to get to the place where the 11% decline starts - that means I'd have used more than 0.6 kwh to get there. But whenever I start at 100% charge, I get hardly any regen going down the slope.

That is the reason I've switched to 80% charging.
Like you, I would certainly want regen for a 11% slope.
As you say, your data supports my statement that the formula above is not correct. 3.5 miles is somewhere around 95% SOC, and I need data in that region. Thanks. I am working on a much improved calculation.
 
As is well known, when you charge to 100% the circles to the left of the "on" circle do not have a double circle meaning that they cannot be used for regen until some of the battery capacity is used. However, as soon as I see that one of them has a double circle then I can get some regen. The trick is to anticipate your slowing or stopping from as far away as you can given distance and traffic considerations, and then ever so lightly depress the brake. Before you feel any of the binders being applied to the rotors, you should see that one bubble to the left of "on" light up. When the battery gets down to 80% capacity, I use this technique to get two and three regen bubbles to light up before I feel the binders. What always frustrates me is when I get caught with a yellow light in a 45 mph zone without adequate room to use the technique and have to put on the binders like some clumsy old ICE car.
 
I took my first Leaf run up the Mt Baldy road to Baldy Village above Claremont, following in the footsteps of Sparky who tested his Leaf on this drive in February.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=2724&hilit=baldy

This road averages about 8% grade over 7 miles, but many sections are much steeper. It is less windy than many mountain roads, with several straight sections, but it does have a number of sharp, blind curves and two tunnels that have to be negotiated carefully. With its low center-of-gravity, the Leaf handled the curves fine. On the way up the motor passed 40KW several times, with one burst to 50KW. There was more than enough power to go as fast as was safe. It took 5 bars to reach the Village. I was pleased to see no increase in battery temperature.

After a brief picnic lunch, I started down with the car showing only 22 miles estimated remaining miles, but I knew that was of no concern. Even with ECO mode engaged, 30KW of regen was not quite enough for the steepest sections. Having little or no regen on this steep of a road would definitely have felt scary. In my venerable ICE with 4-speed auto-transmission, I take these sections in 2nd gear, which supplies more braking than the Leaf with maximum regen.

Despite all the regen, I recovered just 2 of the 5 bars on the descent. There was some energy lost to the friction braking on the steepest sections, but the rest of the potential energy was just used in propelling the car.

If you are carful, this road is a fun test of what the Leaf can do.
 
I was told today that the battery charging rate indeed slows at above 80% and again above 90%; that this is to control battery heating.
In addition, there would be further slowing of the charge rate through the Blink when the temperature is high in your garage to deal with battery heating.

I was told that both the Blink and the car do this.
 
thankyouOB said:
I was told today that the battery charging rate indeed slows at above 80% and again above 90%; that this is to control battery heating.
In addition, there would be further slowing of the charge rate through the Blink when the temperature is high in your garage to deal with battery heating.

I was told that both the Blink and the car do this.

Who told you the Blink unit varies the pilot signal based on temp?
 
Back
Top