Can I use the SAE J1772 EVSE I have with Leaf?

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Good info, thanks!

How long was the "J1772" cable-and-plug?
Was the plug already wired to the cable?
Do you have a "part number" to order?
How much did it cost?

Thanks Again.
 
cleanauto said:
Try contacting Dave Packard at Clipper Creek ( [email protected] ) to ask about buying a new cable and J1772 connector assembly. It's nice to know that our old friend the MS100 can keep working with our next EV.
Still waiting to hear from Dave Packard. Hopefully I will hear from him soon so I can report back.
 
Spies said:
cleanauto said:
Try contacting Dave Packard at Clipper Creek ( [email protected] ) to ask about buying a new cable and J1772 connector assembly. It's nice to know that our old friend the MS100 can keep working with our next EV.
Still waiting to hear from Dave Packard. Hopefully I will hear from him soon so I can report back.
Well I have spoken to a number of people at Clipper Creek over the last couple of months including Tina and Gary but they tell me the only one that can sell me the cable with the J1772 connector is Dave. Dave has yet to contact me so I am now looking for another source. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I already heard back from Dwight at EV-Charge America and they will not sell me just the cable with the J1772 connector.

I suppose finding another source would be a good thing anyway so I can do a price comparison.
 
Spies said:
Spies said:
cleanauto said:
Try contacting Dave Packard at Clipper Creek ( [email protected] ) to ask about buying a new cable and J1772 connector assembly. It's nice to know that our old friend the MS100 can keep working with our next EV.
Still waiting to hear from Dave Packard. Hopefully I will hear from him soon so I can report back.
Dave has yet to contact me so I am now looking for another source.
Well Dave just happened to contact me for the first time right after I posted this. What are the odds? Anyway he sent me a document with parts and prices. I will post the information here if they are ok with it.
 
$350 plus tax and $25 shipping for the SAE-J1772 connector and cable is a little higher than I was hoping. I figured it would be closer to $250 but at least it can be ordered now and its UL listed so its a good start.

From the pdf:

ClipperCreek, Inc.
Connector and Inlet Pricing
October 1, 2010

Description Retail Price

SAE-J1772™ 30 Amp Connector $350
UL Listed at 30 Amps, 240 V
Part Number: 5602-0006
Includes:
25’ of cable

SAE-J1772™ 75 Amp Connector $570
UL Listed at 75 Amps, 240 V
Part Number:
Includes:
25’ of cable

SAE-J1772™ Connector CS-40 BMW Upgrade Kit $400
UL Listed at 30 Amps, 240 V
Part Number: 0200-01-000
Includes:
25’ of cable prepared for installation
Connector Holster (holder)
Cable strain nut

SAE-J1772™ Connector CS-60 BMW Upgrade Kit $620
UL Listed at 48 Amps, 240 V
Part Number: 0200-02-000
Includes:
25’ of cable prepared for installation
Connector Holster (holder)
Cable strain nut
Available 10/15/2010

SAE-J1772™ Inlet $250
75 Amps, 240 V
Available 11/15/2010

Yazaki Connector Holster $50
For CS product line
Part Number: 0207-01-000

* All orders shipped in CA will be subject to CA Sales Tax

* All orders will be shipped via UPS Ground $25.00 Shipping and Handling per unit unless a
shipping account number is provided.
 
Now I told you mini and Tesla people that wanted to use thier EVSE not to worry. If you have the higher power EVSE get the high power cord and you are god for all EVs!
 
Glad to hear some people have successfully been able to modify Avcon boxes. Just wanted to throw out there my experience with aged Avcon stations here in Arizona. It's a little known fact, but I have used or tested about eight left over Avcon boxes left over from the 90's with a somewhat self made Avcon to 14-50 adapter.

The one closest to me is about 5 miles away in downtown Glendale Arizona and had an accessible circuit breaker with some indicator lights. When the breaker was reset the lights came on to indicate power was present; however, I could not get this box to pass power initially. After doing some consulting with the experts I figured out how to push the cover out of the way to reveal the contacts, figuring I could try cleaning them, but turned out there was an old spider egg sac on the pilot pin! Easy enough fix I though, but it still did not. At this point I could get the box to indicate it was charging, but I could not get power at the car. What had happened was the Avcon was not used for so many years, plus it was outside, that the main power relay inside had developed some corrosion or dirt inside and was not conducting. Well after about 20 cycles or so I did manage to get it to work!

I have used this station from time to time since and it still works. I have found this similar problem with several of the Avcons around. Other designs do not have an accessible circuit breaker and simply light a "service required" light when the main power relay does not close inside. If I could get to the breaker I could probably cycle it enough to get it to work. One of them is at a McDonalds (16th St and Camelback if anyone is following) just flat does not work and the breaker is accessible.

With an Avcon in a garage I would suspect it may not have these problems. Worst case scenario if you find that the relay clunks, but no power flows you could possible disassemble it and clean the tips, or just replace it. Either way, they do have issues of non-use in my experience.

Have to add this too, best Avcon I used was about 1 mile from Arizona State University where I went to school at. It is at APS's Solar testing facility and generation station. It had limited hours, but I would disassemble a bike and put it in the back seat drive my 26 miles one way and charge about 20 feet from some massive solar arrays and ride my bike the last mile to class. I was putting 52 miles a day on my converted Saturn which realistically has about 30 miles range. Of course a few days a week I had to go retrieve the car in between classes to make this work. School refused to provide or sell me power.
 
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