Can't start it, Can't Charge it

[stoneypointe]

Hi All
I have a Nissan Leaf SL 2012
I have had this car for about 3 years.
My wife drives it, great car, she loves it, we all love it.
We never had any issues, we had the battery replaced under warranty about 1 year ago and then the 12v battery got replaced recently.
Last friday the car would not start, not would it charge or drive. I was always stuck on neutral, two icons were lit on the dashboard.
I had it towed to the dealer, the replaced the 12v battery and got in my car, drove for about 1/2 a mile and noticed that the icons were still displaying on the dashboard, so I turned around and brought it back to the dealer. I put the car in park and then tried to drive it, but again it would go to neutral. They got a wrench, removed the 12v battery connector and then placed it back and the car would start and drive, but not change.
It was kind of late and the service department was closing early. I have the feeling that whoever looked at the car did not pay much attention to the icons lit on the panel and just replaced the battery.
They told me that they would have to go deep in the car to find out what is going on and that they would charge me $700 for this.
This is crazy but it is my wife's car and she really needs it so I brought it back on monday and it has been a week already and they cant figure out what the issue is. I called today (they dont call) and they told me to wait until monday because they are waiting for Nissan to let them know what the issue is. They told me that it could be the motor even though they never had to deal with a motor issue, and from what I read on some posts, it could be really really expensive to replace it unless I buy it used
I am lost. This sounds like total bull. We still owe money in this car and it is out of warranty.
At this point I dont know what to do.
Any thoughts? Did any of you have to go through something like this? Could this really be the motor or are they trying to milk me?

Thank you very much

 

[LeftieBiker]

Normally in a situation like this, the 12 volt battery would be the #1 suspect. Since it's supposedly new, it moves into maybe third place. Since it's easy, though, check the resting voltage (car off for 30 minutes) of the 12 volt battery. If that's at least 12.5 volts you can rule it out. If it is below 12.4 volts, and especially if it's below 12.1 volts, consider the following scenario: maybe the new 12 volt battery was never charged before installation, which is common practice with ICE cars, and maybe you have an issue with the car not charging that little battery. Maybe the new 12 volt battery was defective. In any case make sure that this isn't the issue first. All you need is a borrowed multi-meter, set to DC volts. Don't pay the dealership $700 to start replacing expensive parts and then shrug when it doesn't work, or to just shrug after getting the money.

Two quick questions: do you leave the car plugged in for long after charging is completed? Can you get a list of the error codes from the dealership? If not you will need the LeafSpy Pro app and a compatible Bluetooth diagnostic port reader like the one in my signature line.

 

[nlspace]

+1 on what lefty say.

A new 12V aux battery needs to be charged before put into service in a Laef. The fact that the car started and drove with a replacement aux is an indication that the motor and inverter operate okay. Broken electronics don't heal themselves, so they ain't broke. The DC-DC converter does not charge adequately, and especially with a new-but-uncharged-aux, driving the car put more load and discharge on the aux than the energy it contained, so it quit. Dealerships seem not to know how to test an aux properly.

Search for "12V aux battery" posts under my name for other information, but a weak aux will cause a multitude of issues in an electric car and it is much more critical for proper operation.

 

[jjeff]

+1 on what Leftie said and personally it would be nice to be able to measure the voltage after the battery connector, not just putting the VOM probes on the battery itself, this would eliminate a faulty battery connector, the part clamping on the battery posts.
I'm not positive about this next part but I wonder if you might have some error codes that need to be cleared with something like LeafSpy, before the car will start? LeafSpy is a $20 program(the dealer should have an OEM program similar) you purchase and download to your phone. Then with a compatible OBDII adapter(again should be less than $20 from places like Amazon) you are able to clear any codes that might be keeping your car from starting. If you lived in an area where someone on MNL already had a OBDII adapter and Leafspy you might be able to talk them into giving you a hand any maybe buy them lunch??
If you did everything your self you might need.
A VOM(volt meter) <$20
LeafSpy Pro downloaded to your computer $20
A compatible OBDII adapter ~$20 with your cell phone(Apple may require a WiFi OBDII adapter otherwise Androids can use the cheaper BT adapters)
This is the OBDII adapter I purchased years ago and works well, probably lots newer ones, mine only works with Androids
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJPHEBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is a handy little volt meter you simply plug in your cigarette lighter, it's nice because it measures the actual voltage in the car, not just at the battery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGWILI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Leafspy Pro, looks like it's only $15
https://www.amazon.com/Turbo3-Leaf-Spy-Pro/dp/B00PMLTPN0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1VWGT0BAQUKMK&keywords=leafspy+pro&qid=1580562086&sprefix=leafspy%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1
and if you have a iPhone, this one popped up on Amazon but there probably are cheaper ones.
https://www.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VWGT0BAQUKMK&keywords=leafspy+pro&qid=1580562175&sprefix=leafspy%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-3
Note the phone need not have service, I have a iPhone but simply use an old Samsung Galaxy i3 for Leafspy, download the program using WiFi and not data. Lastly, unless things have changed I'd NOT recommend downloading Leafspy via Amazon as I did that and am forced to have the Amazon app on my phone, I don't want that and when I try and remove the app from my phone Leafspy balks, IMO best to download that from somewhere else, maybe the makers site??

What I said may sound like a lot but it doesn't sound like your dealer knows much more and DIY could save you tons over having the dealer flounder around. It might help if you say where you live(city) to see if any MNL members nearby.

 

[SalisburySam]

What @LeftiBiker said.

If you have one or access to one, maybe try putting a batter booster/charger on the battery to give it a full charge. I try to keep my 12v on a battery tender when I’m not going to use the car for a few days and also when I’m L2 charging the vehicle itself.

 

[stoneypointe]

Thank you very much for all the answers.
I dont have the codes at the moment because the car is at the dealer and they asked me to call back on monday.
I know they do have a list of codes already, I will try to stop by today and get it.
Thank you

 

[LeftieBiker]

This is a handy little volt meter you simply plug in your cigarette lighter, it's nice because it measures the actual voltage in the car, not just at the battery.

I'm fairly sure that the 12 volt power port (aka "cigarette lighter") is only connected when the car is ON, Ready, or in accessory mode. In that case it won't read the battery voltage but will instead read the voltage from the DC-DC converter in On or Ready Mode. It might work to read battery voltage in Accessory mode, though, but that still requires the car be able to power up...

I'm not positive about this next part but I wonder if you might have some error codes that need to be cleared with something like LeafSpy, before the car will start?

It depends on the codes. They may well have to be cleared for the car to start, although that isn't usually the case.