EVSE Adapter

[mwalsh]

I'm guessing that if you measure any two of the live connectors in a three phase setup to each other they will measure 240V (well 208V) if it's 240V phase 3 and 480V (don't know what the nominal is in this case...440V?) if it's 480V phase 3. If you get it wrong, and measure to ground or neutral, it's going to read 120V on each leg in a 240V circuit and 277V in a 480V circuit. So either way you're going to know.

It's really time for someone who knows what they're talking about to jump in.

Where has Ingineer disappeared to anyhow? He doesn't seem around much anymore.

 

[EVDRIVER]

Connectors:

http://www.lockingpowercords.com/category/31-hubbell-50a-twist-lock.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.amazon.com/CS8365C-Industrial-Grounding-California-Style-Black-White/dp/B000WTD7DG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374611481&sr=8-1&keywords=hubbel+california+connector" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/processfeed.aspx?sfid=136763&i=16211012&mpid=8171&dfid=1&gclid=CInNg_e7xrgCFeZxQgodUXgAjA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would get one with the steel outside like the hubbell. I did one of these a while ago, there are not uncommon outside commercial buildings.

 

[mwalsh]

I would get one with the steel outside like the hubbell. I did one of these a while ago, there are not uncommon outside commercial buildings.

Do you know for sure that's a CS8364 the OP posted? And clue us in on any physical differences between it and the CS8164 which would preclude it being the latter? That would be really helpful.

BTW, that last one you posted is a CS8265. That's not the one he's after. And I inadvertently did the same thing earlier, so don't feel bad.

 

[Darren]

I ran down the street to the electrical supply place during my lunch and found this Hubbell one.

It was a few dollars cheaper than the online prices but I paid tax.

When I got back to the office, it looked like it will fit but I obviously won't know until it is all put together on the pig tail.

Sounds like tomorrow I bring my volt meter, try not to electrocute myself and see if this works on the pig tail.

We'll see what happens!

 

[mwalsh]

When I got back to the office, it looked like it will fit but I obviously won't know until it is all put together on the pig tail.

Sounds like tomorrow I bring my volt meter, try not to electrocute myself and see if this works on the pig tail.

We'll see what happens!

It sure looks the same. I think you should try for fit today...it wouldn't do any harm (just don't stick your fingers in the hole where the pigtail should go and make sure the screws are all tight on the fitting!).

So I'm thinking that the two tabbed connectors are going to be live and the non-tabbed one is going to be neutral. The ground is the tab riveted to the case. So sticking the prongs from your voltmeter in the two tabbed slots on the receptacle are going to be the way to go.

And, if that all holds true, it's the tabbed connectors that the black and white wires from your pigtail should be connected to, one to each. The green wire will, as you'd expect, go to ground.

FYI, since I don't know your level of familiarity...if you have a voltmeter that does AC and DC, AC voltages are typically indicated by a tilde (~) underneath the V and DC voltages are typically indicated by a solid line over a dashed line under the V.

 

[hill]

I ran down the street to the electrical supply place during my lunch and found this Hubbell one.


It was a few dollars cheaper than the online prices but I paid tax.

When I got back to the office, it looked like it will fit but I obviously won't know until it is all put together on the pig tail.

Sounds like tomorrow I bring my volt meter, try not to electrocute myself and see if this works on the pig tail.

We'll see what happens!

.

 

[EVDRIVER]

When I got back to the office, it looked like it will fit but I obviously won't know until it is all put together on the pig tail.

Sounds like tomorrow I bring my volt meter, try not to electrocute myself and see if this works on the pig tail.

We'll see what happens!

It sure looks the same. I think you should try for fit today...it wouldn't do any harm (just don't stick your fingers in the hole where the pigtail should go and make sure the screws are all tight on the fitting!).

So I'm thinking that the two tabbed connectors are going to be live and the non-tabbed one is going to be neutral. The ground is the tab riveted to the case. So sticking the prongs from your voltmeter in the two tabbed slots on the receptacle are going to be the way to go.

And, if that all holds true, it's the tabbed connectors that the black and white wires from your pigtail should be connected to, one to each. The green wire will, as you'd expect, go to ground.

FYI, since I don't know your level of familiarity...if you have a voltmeter that does AC and DC, AC voltages are typically indicated by a tilde (~) underneath the V and DC voltages are typically indicated by a solid line over a dashed line under the V.

Yes, all that above. I was busy today and just pointing in direction....

 

[Darren]

It sure looks the same. I think you should try for fit today...it wouldn't do any harm (just don't stick your fingers in the hole where the pigtail should go and make sure the screws are all tight on the fitting!).

So I'm thinking that the two tabbed connectors are going to be live and the non-tabbed one is going to be neutral. The ground is the tab riveted to the case. So sticking the prongs from your voltmeter in the two tabbed slots on the receptacle are going to be the way to go.

And, if that all holds true, it's the tabbed connectors that the black and white wires from your pigtail should be connected to, one to each. The green wire will, as you'd expect, go to ground.

FYI, since I don't know your level of familiarity...if you have a voltmeter that does AC and DC, AC voltages are typically indicated by a tilde (~) underneath the V and DC voltages are typically indicated by a solid line over a dashed line under the V.

Yes, all that above. I was busy today and just pointing in direction....

I did loosely try a test fitting but couldn't get it all the way on as there are screws next to the male end of the plugs. These won't allow it to go all the way on without it being tightened down an put together.

Not terribly familiar with electricity but I think I do have a cheap volt meter in my toolbox at home. I really appreciate all the input so hopefully I won't end up frying myself.

These days I need to come from North San Diego to Irvine (55 miles each way) about two to three times a week. To a large extent my LEAF has been sitting in the driveway a lot. If this works, it might go a long way towards my actually using the miles I paid for in the lease.

THANKS!!!

 

[mwalsh]

These days I need to come from North San Diego to Irvine (55 miles each way) about two to three times a week. To a large extent my LEAF has been sitting in the driveway a lot. If this works, it might go a long way towards my actually using the miles I paid for in the lease.

Did you know there are a couple of DC Quick chargers nearby that might be helpful (so long as you have CHAdeMO on your car)?

There is a free one at Tustin Nissan. And paid ones at both the Residence Inn in SJC and at Connell Nissan in Costa Mesa.

My wife's daughter lives in Encinitas, and 10-15 minutes in each direction at the DCQC in SJC was about all I need to feel comfortable about the journey (driving at 65mph).

 

[Darren]

These days I need to come from North San Diego to Irvine (55 miles each way) about two to three times a week. To a large extent my LEAF has been sitting in the driveway a lot. If this works, it might go a long way towards my actually using the miles I paid for in the lease.

Did you know there are a couple of DC Quick chargers nearby that might be helpful (so long as you have CHAdeMO on your car)?

There is a free one at Tustin Nissan. And paid ones at both the Residence Inn in SJC and at Connell Nissan in Costa Mesa.

My wife's daughter lives in Encinitas, and 10-15 minutes in each direction at the DCQC in SJC was about all I need to feel comfortable about the journey (driving at 65mph).

I have gotten frustrated with the SJC unit as it is always down when I really need it. Plugshare states that it currently has an out-of-order sign on it. I've also found that I typically can't drive the 55 miles up AND the 20 miles back to the charger (75 miles RT) which meant that until I discovered the 110 plug (and not hopefully the 240v), I had to charge in SJC both directions.

I used Connell Nissan's today. It is a bit of back tracking but only a few miles. It is still free but very inconvenient. I frequently wait 10-15 mins just to have management come turn the thing on with their key fob.

I wasn't aware that Tustin's had gone live. Last I heard they were waiting until their remodel was done. I might have to check it out.

 

[mwalsh]

I wasn't aware that Tustin's had gone live. Last I heard they were waiting until their remodel was done. I might have to check it out.

Went live at the end of May.

 

[Darren]

I wasn't aware that Tustin's had gone live. Last I heard they were waiting until their remodel was done. I might have to check it out.

Went live at the end of May.

Thanks. I also tried Mossy Nissan in Oceanside's DCQC today. Maybe the infrastructure is now building out enough that I can start driving my LEAF again.

 

[mwalsh]

Just wanted to jump back in and say that, after reading up some, I no longer believe that 3 phase has a neutral. Just 3 live and a ground. So checking any two of the three connections on the receptacle should give the desired results.

 

[Darren]

Last night I put together the adapter and brought my volt meter to the office this morning.

After putting the prongs into the two tabbed slots, I got this result.

Sorry for the fuzzy pic but it was hard taking a pic while putting the prongs in the slots. I think this means I have 342v of power, right? Any ideas where to go from here?

 

[Darren]

Just wanted to jump back in and say that, after reading up some, I no longer believe that 3 phase has a neutral. Just 3 live and a ground. So checking any two of the three connections on the receptacle should give the desired results.

This is very interesting as I am currently thinking that I have a 480v setup but when I tried to test the third, non-tabbed slot, I could not get a good reading which led me to believe it is not connected.

 

[Nubo]

Last night I put together the adapter and brought my volt meter to the office this morning.

After putting the prongs into the two tabbed slots, I got this result.

Sorry for the fuzzy pic but it was hard taking a pic while putting the prongs in the slots. I think this means I have 342v of power, right? Any ideas where to go from here?

Unless you're reading 240V between the 2 tabbed prongs, I'd think it's a no-go. Not sure what would give 342V. Single leg of 600V, phase to neutral? Over my head.

 

[Darren]

Last night I put together the adapter and brought my volt meter to the office this morning.

After putting the prongs into the two tabbed slots, I got this result.

Sorry for the fuzzy pic but it was hard taking a pic while putting the prongs in the slots. I think this means I have 342v of power, right? Any ideas where to go from here?

Unless you're reading 240V between the 2 tabbed prongs, I'd think it's a no-go. Not sure what would give 342V. Single leg of 600V, phase to neutral? Over my head.

I'm clueless on this one. I wonder if I read it wrong or the volt meter was on the wrong settings. I have no idea what I am dealing with but I am not thinking I should plug the car in even though I now have an adapter that would do it.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[mwalsh]

Unless you're reading 240V between the 2 tabbed prongs, I'd think it's a no-go. Not sure what would give 342V. Single leg of 600V, phase to neutral? Over my head.

That would probably be it (or so Google tells me). Over my head too.

 

[EVDRIVER]

I assume you have no other outlet opportunities hidden at that location?

 

[smkettner]

If the connector is basically abandoned in place why bother figuring it out?
Have an electrician connect the right power in the supply box and change the connector to a 240v standard.
The hardest part is pulling the 50 amp wire and that is done.