EVSE Level II DIY - NEED HELP & ADVICE -- PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

[iamwjh]

I am considering the purchase of a Clipper Creek CS 40 J1772 EV Charger.
This is a refurbished Level 2 charging station, model CS-40, for 40 amp circuit and up to 30-32 amp charging. It was originally fitted with a different interim connector for an electric car trial program that ended and it is now fitted with a new 25ft J1772 cord/connector, tested, and is compatible with the Nissan Leaf. This charger wall-mounts (indoors or out) on a dedicated 2-pole, 40-amp, 240 volt or 208 volt circuit and supplies up to 32 amps to the EV. I have an electrician that will install the desired receptacle in my garage and wire the plug the box.

Here is my question...
What should I do about a mount for the EVSE box. I do not want to mount this on the garage wall. Rather, build/procure/design a pedestal (or something similar) to mount it to. Reason is, I currently rent the house I am in and I want to easily move the EVSE with me should the need arise. In other words, the only mod I am willing to make to the existing house is an outlet receptacle in the garage.

Does anyone have ideas/suggestions/recommendations for a stand-alone mount that I can implement. All ideas are welcome!

Thanks.
I will try and include some pics of the EVSE here:

http://flic.kr/p/dMKEvQ

http://flic.kr/p/dMKEuQ

 

[LEAFer]

I had ours sitting on a plastic chair in the garage for almost a year before I mounted it on the wall with lag bolts. Wish I hadn't done that ! Forgot that the wall it's mounted on has my home office on the other side ... every time the contactor opens and closes the "clunk" can be felt in the office ! (This is an older Avcon unit, but essentially same as the new CS-40s, including exterior casing.)

Anyway ... as long as the box is secured from falling and does not pose a hazard to children or pets ... it can be "mounted" or laid on its "back" ... whereever you like.

( Your flikr links seem to require a yahoo login ... )

 

[iamwjh]

LEAFer:
Thanks for the prompt and informative response.

No children and no pets to worry about, so maybe I will consider building something myself in due time and just secure the box on a chair or shelf in the interim for now. I am open to ideas for the design of a standalone mount. Perhaps a wood pedestal or something homemade.

As for the flickr links, I think I have fixed that now, and they should work...i hope.

thanks again!

If anyone has ideas for the pedestal, I am still open for suggestions!!

 

[Nubo]

Note the pictures don't show a wall-plug. Looks like it might need to be hard-wired to an electical box.

Even if it comes with a wall-plug, wall plugs on EVSE are very short; you wouldn't get more than a few inches from the wall. You could fit a longer wall plug but that would go against the safety design and purpose of the EVSE. Fitting a wall plug if it originally was intended for hard-wiring might not be a good idea, could be against code or invalidate the UL certification; check with your electrician.

Mounting to any kind of pedestal that has the potential for being knocked over is probably a bad idea, so you're back to having to semi-permanently fasten the pedestal itself to the garage walls or floor.

I'm not sure I understand the reason for not wanting to wall mount (i.e., you might eventually move). Lag screws can be removed in a couple of minutes.

 

[smkettner]

It is no more than hanging a picture. Find a stud and put it on the wall I say.

Worst case buy a small wood workbench or cabinet and bolt it to the side.

 

[iamwjh]

Thanks all for the replies.
And to clarify, as I stated somewhat unclearly in my original post, I have an electrician that will wire both the receptacle in the wall and will wire the plug to the box. So, that will not be an issue. I can have whatever length cord I want from the box to the plug.

I do not want to mount the box to the wall at all. Any type of wall mount will require additional work to undo (patch up) when I relocate. Would be much easier to just mount to a pedestal or other surface that I will move with me. That is why I am seeking ideas from those that may have experience in this type of solution. Understanding of course, that I may be wanting something unrealistic. Guess that's why I am asking the question to begin with. It may be not possible to do what I want.

So far, based on the valuable input I have received, I am considering the options of:
[1] mounting the box to a workbench ( I don't have one in the garage )
[2] leave it on a shelf in the garage ( I do have one )
[3] construct some type of pedestal ( need ideas or proven solutions )

Still, I welcome and appreciate all ideas and suggestions!!

Thanks everyone.

 

[planet4ever]

I have an electrician that will wire both the receptacle in the wall and will wire the plug to the box. So, that will not be an issue. I can have whatever length cord I want from the box to the plug.

Well, do what you gotta do, but the National Electrical Code does not allow a wire longer than about one foot (I think it may actually be 30cm) from the EVSE to the wall plug. If your electrician is willing to violate that and doesn't get caught by a city inspector, the only real downside is that there is no protection for that wire except the circuit breaker. Of course if it does get caught you will have to do it over to meet NEC requirements.

Ray

 

[iamwjh]

Ray:
good advice, thanks!!

I will need to make sure that my solution is with the required distance from the receptacle.


W

 

[smkettner]

:shock: My Leviton 160 has a 24' power cord to the wall outlet :shock:

Have the electrician provide the outlet and plug in what you like. Of course don't drape the cord where it is a trip hazard or will get run over etc.

 

[borland]

I have an electrician that will wire both the receptacle in the wall and will wire the plug to the box. So, that will not be an issue. I can have whatever length cord I want from the box to the plug.

Well, do what you gotta do, but the National Electrical Code does not allow a wire longer than about one foot (I think it may actually be 30cm) from the EVSE to the wall plug. If your electrician is willing to violate that and doesn't get caught by a city inspector, the only real downside is that there is no protection for that wire except the circuit breaker. Of course if it does get caught you will have to do it over to meet NEC requirements.

Ray

Close. I think your referring to the NEC Article 625 clause about Personnel Protection from electrical shock which states:

625-22. Personnel Protection System. The electric vehi-
cle supply equipment shall have a listed system of protection
against electric shock of personnel. The personnel protec-
tion system shall be composed of listed personnel protection
devices and constructional features. Where cord- and plug-
connected electric vehicle supply equipment is used, the
interrupting device of a listed personnel protection system
shall be provided and shall be an integral part of the attach-
ment plug or shall be located in the power supply cable not
more than 12 in. (305 mm) from the attachment plug.


625-2. Definitions
Personnel Protection System. A system of personnel
protection devices and constructional features that when
used together provide protection against electric shock of
personnel.

This design does not meet the intent of 625-22 by providing PPS within 12 inches because the GFI can only sense current leakage down stream of the box. Instead, the designer tries to skirt the rules by incorporating a less than 12" power cord. Using EVSE cord/plug without a GFIC plug/GFIC outlet socket/GFCI circuit breaker, the intent is not met.

 

[iamwjh]

This design does not meet the intent of 625-22 by providing PPS within 12 inches because the GFI can only sense current leakage down stream of the box. Instead, the designer tries to skirt the rules by incorporating a less than 12" power cord. Using EVSE cord/plug without a GFIC plug/GFIC outlet socket/GFCI circuit breaker, the intent is not met.

Please expand on your point, i am confused. I do -or- do not need to have a 12" power cord...

 

[borland]

Just saying the 12" cord length is pretty stupid. The hole idea of a cord is to make connections flexible. You might as well hard wire the unit with flex conduit. Cost for parts is less with hard wiring the unit.

 

[LEAFer]

I bought a Range (oven) replacement cord (with molded NEMA14-50P) at Ace Hardware:

 

[Randy]

There is a TIA (Tentative Interim Amendment) for NEC Article 625 that was effective in November 2011. This TIA has many changes, among them an increase in the maximum power supply cord to 6 feet in length...

http://www.nfpa.org/Assets/files/AboutTheCodes/70/TIA70-11-2.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[smkettner]

Good to see they have come to their senses on the cord length.

 

[davewill]

Well, I was going to suggest a 4x4 sunk into a bucket of concrete, but I don't think you would really want to make the base big and heavy enough to sure it wouldn't tip when you've got 25ft. of cable pulling on it. The only solution I think would actually work would be a wooden structure large enough not to tip...which is essentially the workbench suggested above.

Honestly, patching the wall when you move out is much easier than either of these choices. Everyone pretty much has to deal with that, even if they own the place. I moved and took the EVSE with me, and had to patch the wall for the new owner. That's just part of moving.

 

[TonyWilliams]

If the posted picture of the Clipper Creek with a new J1772 in bubble wrap is yours, you did not get the correct holster for the J1772. The correct one is $50 from Clipper Creek; the one on there is still the old BMW Mini-E one.

It's easy to swap, with just four screws, and the J1772 works very well (it "clicks" in place).

Read through this thread to find the right part:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=248883#p248883" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Ingineer]

I agree; The safest is to attach it. You'll likely regret it if you don't! It will probably fall, Murphy's law says into your nice paint job. The EVSE could be damaged by the fall even if your paint isn't.

If you are dead-set against the attachment, simply sell the Clipper Creek on Ebay and have your portable unit upgraded. You'll save money, and then you have nothing attached.

-Phil

 

[iamwjh]

PROBLEM SOLVED !!!

Thanks for all the helpful feedback and advice!! Here is the solution I ultimately chose:
I purchased a new/un-used Panasonic Level 1 EVSE from EBay and sent that in to the folks at EVSE Upgrade. They did an excellent job and a very fast turn around.
With the newly moded EVSE, I identified three potential options for powering the unit.
[1] Quick220: This was going to cost me around $220 and I was not confident in the convenience of locating two 120V outlets that I knew would be out of phase. The closest I could come up with was a GFI wall outlet and a light fixture both in the garage. However, the thought of running extensions cords all over does not appeal to me at this price.
[2] Extension Cord to dryer outlet: I priced out some options on the cord with the necessary awg and adapters. I was looking at about $200 to run a cord from my laundry room 60 linear feet to the EVSE in the garage. The thought of running a cord across the house and leaving doors cracked does not appeal to me at this price.
[3] Install new receptacle in garage: I priced out all the necessary parts for the job to include a new key hole saw and it came to $50.

So, I went with option 3. When? yesterday!!
Here is basic layout of what I did.






Total Cost: $50.
EVSE tested and works perfectly. My first night charging at home on L2 was nice.

 

[QueenBee]

So, I went with option 3. When? yesterday!!
Here is basic layout of what I did.

Nice job! Even though you used #10 to the receptacle I think since the receptacle is only rated for 20 amps I think you want a two pole 20 amp circuit breaker.