Fog... Now Ice Forming on Inside of Windshield

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Plugg

Active member
Joined
Jul 27, 2013
Messages
25
Location
Seattle, WA
I purchased my 2013 SV in May and began experiencing interior window fogging whenever the Pacific NW lived up to it's rainy reputation. Now that the temperatures have dropped significantly (sub 32*F), my issue with foggy windows has worsened to icy windows (specifically windshield) when left parked outdoors overnight or after a cold day sitting in the lot at work.

I'm pretty particular about preserving the "new car feeling" - no open beverage containers, wet clothing, wet dogs, etc. I run the heat occasionally and use the defrost more than I would like due to the interior window fogging. There is no obvious accumulated moisture on the floor (I use weathertech mats which keep the carpet from becoming wet) and I've tried leaving a dessicant (Driz Aire) in the car for about a week without much impact.

Compared to some of the more significant isses in the forum this is really just an annoyance but I'm wondering if anyone with a similar experience has any pearls of wisdom to share.

Thanks in advance.
 
Lots of people experience this. I think the problem is that we try not to run the heater (to conserve battery), and we don't get the dehumidifying effect that you usually get in a car from doing so.

I've modified my Leaf to allow me to turn off the heater (see this thread). I've been leaving the climate control on defrost all the time lately. It helps keep the window clear, and I don't lose range from running the heater.
 
garsh said:
Lots of people experience this. I think the problem is that we try not to run the heater (to conserve battery), and we don't get the dehumidifying effect that you usually get in a car from doing so.

+1

And not only the heater, but do not disable the AC. While heating the air will lower the relative humidity, it doesn't remove the moisture. The AC removes the moisture. Over time, moisture accumulates not just in the interior air, but in the cabin materials. You don't need wet items to do this; human respiration puts out plenty of moisture. As long as you're not trying to squeeze out every mile of range, use the heat + AC diligently to lower the overall moisture in the cabin, which will minimize condensation problems. Then if you occasionally have to stretch for range, fogging will be much less of a problem since you're starting out with a dry cabin.
 
It will also help to occasionally heat the inside of the car thoroughly, which draws moisture out of the upholstery into the air...then open up the windows to flush out the moisture laden air. Even in the mild climate here, that greatly helps with fogging. You can trigger the climate control to heat the car using wall power, then open the windows while you initially drive off. Since the system is heated up, it will warm back up quickly after you close the windows.
 
You might try AC while docked at a charger to dry out the interior when you get home at night and again before leaving in AM... also get all weather mats if you haven't already to keep the interior from soaking up the rain on your shoes. I would think the carpet floor mats could hold a fair amount of moisture.
 
Many thanks to all who responded. I took the advice to heart, set aside my quest for ultimate energy conservation, and I have regularly used heat and defrost over the past week. Given the unusually cold weather for Seattle (high 20's to low 30's) for the past week, I must say it was a much more comfortable driving experience! I'm pleased to report that my interior fogging/icing has been dramatically reduced. I'm still getting used to the reduced range but I suppose that's what I signed up for when I took the EV plunge.

Great to have a community to turn to along this EV journey. :D

Thanks again!
 
Sure glad it is working out for you. You will figure out the best balance of heat/defrost/range - It is a bit of an adventure.

And, of course, this recent NW cold snap will abate, but we still have the humidity to deal with.
 
I had been experiencing this recently. I was initially alarmed that the seals had given way in 2011 Nissan Leaf but then noticed it happened whenever we got into the leaf with wet coats on.

I find 30mins of AirCon, whilst plugged into a station, dehumidifies the Leaf beautifully and the condensation goes away until the next time we get inside with wet coats.

I think it shows how well sealed the Leaf actually is.
 
The most effective way to dehumidify on a 13MY is to activate both A/C and HEAT while in fresh mode.
-Recirculating the air will build up humidity and lead to fogging.
-Running the A/C compressor will dehumidify.
Unfortunately this uses the most energy, because both the PTC heater and A/C compressor are running, and must work harder to warm the outside air, but it is necessary sometimes.

An 11 or 12MY work the same way but there is no HEAT button. Just set the temperature so that the heat comes on and activate the A/C while in fresh mode. You will notice that pressing AUTO does this for you automatically because it assumes worst case... that you need defogging.
 
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