How Many/What Type of Fluids Are In The Leaf?

[EngravEER]

When talking with non-EV folks inquiring about the Leaf, it's always cool to tell them "there's no gas or oil whatsoever in the car" (they're almost always shocked to learn that it's pure electric with no gas back-up). But I'd love to tell them, "Yes, the only fluids in the car are ______, _________, ________, and _________." So as to not leave anything out, I thought it would be prudent to ask the forum for a full accounting.

1) Brake Fluid
2) Windshield Wiper Fluid
3) Coolant for the Heat Pump
4) Coolant for the Inverter

What else am I missing?

 

[RegGuheert]

5) Gear lubricant in the reduction gear.
6) Electrolyte (sulfuric acid solution) in the 12V battery.

BTW, I think the proper term for fluid in the heat pump is "refrigerant".

Also, the coolant is for the inverter, the motor, the DC/DC converter and the charger.

 

[donald]

It's a sealed battery, isn't it? I can't see that battery electrolyte enters the picture. The intent of the list is those things you might need to level check and top-up or replace.

If you do not have the heat pump, then you still have the refrigerant for the AC but you also have a liquid circuit to transfer the heater element's heat.

You've also missed the fluid you need to check and top up the most often - air in your tyres!

Leaf also appears to take more than its fair share of propshaft lube and, often, has need to be added for some vehicles.

 

[RegGuheert]

6) Electrolyte (sulfuric acid solution) in the 12V battery.

It's a sealed battery, isn't it?

No.

The intent of the list is those things you might need to level check and top-up or replace.

Is it? Perhaps, but OP didn't say that.

 

[donald]

6) Electrolyte (sulfuric acid solution) in the 12V battery.

It's a sealed battery, isn't it?

No.

heh!

Oh yeah, never noticed it has those thumb-wheely type caps before!

Given Leaf has a tendency to flatten the battery, maybe it will need topping up! Though I've never yet needed to top up a 12V lead-acid battery in 30 years and a few 100k miles of motoring.

 

[RegGuheert]

Given Leaf has a tendency to flatten the battery, maybe it will need topping up!

Flattening the battery does not cause the escape of electrolyte. Loss of electrolyte is primarily caused by overcharge. The fact that the LEAF (and apparently many other new cars) do not charge constantly at 14.4V but rather quickly drop to a float charge of 13.1V means the electrolyte will last much longer than normal. Unfortunately, the battery will die much more quickly due to the hardening of the lead sulfate that occurs.

Though I've never yet needed to top up a 12V lead-acid battery in 30 years and a few 100k miles of motoring.

That's one reason lead-acid batteries die after about seven years: enough electrolyte has been lost by that time that it no longer covers the plates in all the cells. Checking the electrolyte level every few year and topping it up can extend the life of the battery. Just be careful not to overfill.

I do like that the 2011/2012 LEAF 12V battery is translucent since that allows the electrolyte level to be quickly and easily checked by holding a short flashlight behind the battery. I wonder if the 2013s and beyond still have this feature...

 

[donald]

Given Leaf has a tendency to flatten the battery, maybe it will need topping up!

Flattening the battery does not cause the escape of electrolyte. Loss of electrolyte is primarily caused by overcharge.

In principle I agree, but not necessarily in practice, AFAIU:- A battery undergoing full discharges may experience stratified sulphation, because when the electrolyte is diluted by being flat, as it recharges the denser acid will tend towards the bottom first and slow the charging process and de-sulphation of the lower part of the cell. As a stratified cell does not present as a 'full voltage', being the average of the top and bottom of the cell, the situation may occur where the top is overcharging as it is now all Pb/PbO wheras the lower part of the cell is still sulphated and thus still charging, even though the overall cell voltage is at or below the float voltage.

I could be wrong, but that's what I am lead to believe. (Lead - :lol: )

 

[RegGuheert]

I could be wrong, but that's what I am lead to believe. (Lead - :lol: )

I think stratification is mainly an issue in stationary applications. In automobiles, the electrolyte solution gets mixed when you drive.

The main issue with the LEAF battery is that the battery rarely gets fully charged, so the lead sulfate has time to harden and the capacity steadily drops. (FWIW, our 12.5yo Honda Civic Hybrid does not have this problem since it constantly charges at 14.4V...but it does use some water. Of course now it sits more since we got the LEAF.) I now use a desulfating charger on occasion to restore some of the capacity lost to sulfation.

 

[Stanton]

I love how these 12v battery discussions pop up in threads! Replace it with a LiFePO (like I did) and get the lead out! Yes it costs more $, but you'll never have to worry about a "dead" battery again!

 

[Nubo]

There is gear oil in the reduction gearbox. I forget the quantity; it's not much.

 

[mctom987]

I love how these 12v battery discussions pop up in threads! Replace it with a LiFePO (like I did) and get the lead out! Yes it costs more $, but you'll never have to worry about a "dead" battery again!

I did on my motorcycle. Was only like $20 more than OEM…
Car-sized batteries are going to be a bit more though. There are still options <$200. They're not always a suitable replacement though. Some starters need >400A to crank the engine. Most Life's top out around 250-300A. Luckily, the Leaf isn't constrained by this ancient tech, and will work perfectly fine.

Just make sure you get one designed for use as a SLA replacement. There are 3S cells advertised as 12V (12.6V max, 10.8V nom) that will look like they will work, but do not have the PCB protection necessary for use as a SLA replacement.

 

[Slow1]

I love how these 12v battery discussions pop up in threads! Replace it with a LiFePO (like I did) and get the lead out! Yes it costs more $, but you'll never have to worry about a "dead" battery again!

Do those use the same charge voltages? I.e. did you have to change the charging controller?

 

[minispeed]

I love how these 12v battery discussions pop up in threads! Replace it with a LiFePO (like I did) and get the lead out! Yes it costs more $, but you'll never have to worry about a "dead" battery again!

I did on my motorcycle. Was only like $20 more than OEM…
Car-sized batteries are going to be a bit more though. There are still options <$200. They're not always a suitable replacement though. Some starters need >400A to crank the engine. Most Life's top out around 250-300A. Luckily, the Leaf isn't constrained by this ancient tech, and will work perfectly fine.

Just make sure you get one designed for use as a SLA replacement. There are 3S cells advertised as 12V (12.6V max, 10.8V nom) that will look like they will work, but do not have the PCB protection necessary for use as a SLA replacement.

I found it funny that the pre delivery inspection I got when I picked up the leaf had the 12v CCA's stated on it... I'm still shocked that Nissan (and Toyota in the Prius) use lead acid, I guess every dollar counts and if the dealers are replacing them at a similar rate to ICE's unsuspecting drivers aren't complaining.

As with most prius owners in the know they have switched to a deep cycle battery, optima yellow top is very popular and around the $200 mark. The Prius doesn't show any many warning signs that the battery is going bad, just one day it won't power up the computer enough to get the main battery to take over. For this reason most people have switched it early. I imagine the leaf may be the same, if I'm going to buy out my lease I'd probably go yellow top in 4 years.