How to get the best range from highway driving.

[dmw183]

I am new here so I am not aware if anyone else mentioned this so I thought it best to give it a go for myself. I own a 2013 and my fiance and I love the car. Ideally, we would love to have a greater range out of the battery but for now the 85 mile average we get is working out for us. The biggest complaint we have, however, and I am sure you fellow Leaf owners experienced this, is that the battery drains big time at highway speeds especially when driving 60+mph.

The best why I learned to get around this is to get behind a big rig or tour bus that is traveling about 65 mph or less (55 to 60 mph ideally). When I did this, I noticed a huge difference. There are times I drove a 5 to 7 mile stretch on the highway (on level ground) and netted +1 miles in range through occasional regenerative braking. You can attempt this with other cars on the road but the effect is not as noticeable and people tend to get out of the way because they think you're tailgating them.

Which brings me to my second point. Please keep in mind that this could be considered as tailgating depending on the state you live in. So, it is very possible that you could be issued a citation for doing this if you're not careful!

Ultimately, though, I would like to see just how far I can go by using this technique say a trip from Philadelphia, PA to New York City on a single charge perhaps. LOL. But I just don't think I would get OK to do so from the lady of the house!

Anyway, let me know your thoughts and any other suggestions you may have.

 

[DougWantsALeaf]

I would keep speed to 52-55 max, if there are more then gentle hills you can save a little by keeping it out of cruise control, allows some mild slow downs on the ups, and gentle over speeds coasting on the downs, keeping out of regen, as maintaining momentum is more efficient. Fewer passengers helps (when my wife and I go we do a little better then with our three kids in the back). If you can get the battery pack close to 70 F before leaving (via heated garage, or L2 plugged in heat cycle prior to departure, that can help as well.

 

[dmw183]

Doug,

you bring up a great point. I live in PA and this time of year it gets cold and it DOES affect the battery for sure. Unfortunately, our Leaf is NOT garage kept so it does affect the charging times and overall range of the vehicle.

 

[Graffi]

We took a 115 mile each way road trip last month in our new leaf. One DC Quick charge and two L2 charges going, and same in reverse. All at Nissan dealers, so trip was paid for. It was a 14 hour road trip with only 3 hours at the destination, so 11 hours driving/charging. Since it would have only been 2 hour drive each way (all on freeway) if we took our gas car, this was a day road trip for us. I tried driving at various speeds to see if the M/KWh varied much, but the freeway was not that level, lots of ups and downs. Going I tried to keep it at 60mph and on the return more like 70mph. In both cases I seemed to get almost the same M/KWh, with only a little lower on the return trip.

I tried to do some drafting (follow a big-rig) but did not want to follow too closely at it is not safe, so gave that option up.

Has anyone with access to a closed circuit ever measured M/KWh that the Leaf gets at various speeds? If I could I would like to start out at constant 75mph on cruise control, then reset the meter, run a few laps, then lower the speed and do it again. I would like to see what it would do at 75, 70, 65, 60, etc. down to maybe 25.

If something like this has already been done please let me know where or attache the link.

Thanks much, Frank

 

[TaylorSFGuy]

As I have said before. You don't want to be the lead dog. Make sure there is something in front of you. It will make a big difference.

 

[jsongster]

Just in case you haven't seen this posted some time ago... the very active Mr. Tony Williams who posts often here... has created an awesome resource for the basics of battery life...
This is the 1st time I've posted a link here... hope it worked... else... check the other discussions of range... it's listed everywhere including his signature which is where I grabbed it for you.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293#p101293

Enjoy,
Jeff

 

[TimLee]

_________________
Mileage as of November 26, 2013 is 99,000



WOW :!: :!: :!:
You're about to have the first 100,000 mile LEAF in the world :!: :!: :!: :!:

 

[edatoakrun]

="Graffi"
...Has anyone with access to a closed circuit ever measured M/KWh that the Leaf gets at various speeds? If I could I would like to start out at constant 75mph on cruise control, then reset the meter, run a few laps, then lower the speed and do it again. I would like to see what it would do at 75, 70, 65, 60, etc. down to maybe 25.

If something like this has already been done please let me know where or attache the link...

DOE constant speed range and capacity tests here:

http://avt.inel.gov/pdf/fsev/fact2011nissanleaf.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As discussed at this thread:

Can anyone provide an Executive Summary for Dummies? Avg. m/kWh at 45, 60 & 70 mph maybe?

From the battery (from the wall):
45mph = 4.85mi/kWh (3.94mi/kWh)
60mph = 3.70mi/kWh (3.04mi/kWh)
70mph = 2.92mi/kWh (2.48mi/kWh)

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=13265" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Try to find a ~level route, and match all test conditions, including battery and ambient temperature as closely as you can.

If you don't have the same tires and wheels, with similar tire age and wear, this will not be possible.

You should expect your 2013 to do slightly better than the 2011 tested by the DOE, due to efficiency improvements.

You should not be surprised if your dash/nav screen/ Carwings m/kWh do not match the results above.

The kWh use reports used in the Carwings, dash and nav screen m/kWh displays has never been shown to be consistently accurate and reliable.

 

[pkulak]

Adaptive cruise control would have been the greatest feature for the Leaf.

 

[Nubo]

The best why I learned to get around this is to get behind a big rig or tour bus that is traveling about 65 mph or less ....
.... this could be considered as tailgating depending on the state you live in. So, it is very possible that you could be issued a citation for doing this if you're not careful!

Okay, so it sounds like you are following these trucks very closely. You are getting the benefit of drafting, but there is a reason why it is not legal -- it is VERY DANGEROUS!

Take a good look at the backside of those big rigs. Then try to imagine a collision between that.... and your car. The so-called "bumpers" attached to trucks are little more than welded angle-iron of questionable strength and in some cases even that is missing -- perfect for a small car to ride underneath and have the driver decapitated.

In my opinion, give a larger-than-normal following distance behind trucks, not shorter. Drafting a truck is a dangerous stunt.

You'll get plenty of benefit just by slowing down. Pacing a slow-moving truck is a good way to do it, as it keeps other drivers off your tail. Just don't follow too closely.

 

[dmw183]

Yes I do benefit from drafting so to speak but I try to keep at least 2 car lengths. Is always safe to do? No. But if you're on a highway experiencing range anxiety because your battery is low, it may be one of your few options.

 

[LeftieBiker]

Yes I do benefit from drafting so to speak but I try to keep at least 2 car lengths. Is always safe to do? No. But if you're on a highway experiencing range anxiety because your battery is low, it may be one of your few options.

The rule of thumb is to keep one car length per 10MPH speed between you and the vehicle ahead of you. That means six car lengths at least at 60MPH. On the one hand, tractor-trailers can't brake nearly as quickly as you can, but on the other, you still only have a split second to see those brake lights, and they aren't always working properly...

 

[smkettner]

And watch for debris suddenly appearing from under that truck.
Never know when a curved piece of steel or a trailer hitch will be sitting in the middle of the lane.

I try to keep 3 to 4 seconds following distance and set the cruise at 58/62.

 

[Stoaty]

Yes I do benefit from drafting so to speak but I try to keep at least 2 car lengths. Is always safe to do? No. But if you're on a highway experiencing range anxiety because your battery is low, it may be one of your few options.

I would not consider something that dangerous to be an "option". There is a very easy option for range anxiety on the highway--slow down to 52 MPH. That will greatly increase the range and in a safe manner.

 

[LEAFfan]

="Graffi"
...Has anyone with access to a closed circuit ever measured M/KWh that the Leaf gets at various speeds? If I could I would like to start out at constant 75mph on cruise control, then reset the meter, run a few laps, then lower the speed and do it again. I would like to see what it would do at 75, 70, 65, 60, etc. down to maybe 25.

If something like this has already been done please let me know where or attache the link...

DOE constant speed range and capacity tests here:

http://avt.inel.gov/pdf/fsev/fact2011nissanleaf.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As discussed at this thread:

Can anyone provide an Executive Summary for Dummies? Avg. m/kWh at 45, 60 & 70 mph maybe?

From the battery (from the wall):
45mph = 4.85mi/kWh (3.94mi/kWh)
60mph = 3.70mi/kWh (3.04mi/kWh)
70mph = 2.92mi/kWh (2.48mi/kWh)

These figures must be in a cold climate because at 45mph I can easily get at least 5.5m/kW h. Same goes for all those other speeds listed...around 4.3 at 60mph.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=13265" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Try to find a ~level route, and match all test conditions, including battery and ambient temperature as closely as you can.

If you don't have the same tires and wheels, with similar tire age and wear, this will not be possible.

You should expect your 2013 to do slightly better than the 2011 tested by the DOE, due to efficiency improvements.

You should not be surprised if your dash/nav screen/ Carwings m/kWh do not match the results above.

The kWh use reports used in the Carwings, dash and nav screen m/kWh displays has never been shown to be consistently accurate and reliable.

This is blatantly not true. Both my 2011 and 2013 have shown extremely accurate m/kW h figures. Never is an absolute which shouldn't be used. Obviously SOME cars aren't accurate, but to say none is just hogwash and FUD.

As far as highway mileage, slow down to 58mph (55mph actual) and you will see a big difference.

 

[Deleted member 9549]

The equation describing friction is of the form,

Friction = velocity**2 * coefficientOfFriction * frontalArea

where **2 means raised to the 2nd power, i.e. squared.

If you speed up from 55 to 78, the friction increases by 78**2/55*2 = 2.01, or 101% greater friction. Twice as much friction at 78 vs. 55 mph. At 75mph its 86% more friction.

The message is that speed greatly increases friction. Its physics. Can't do much about it other than slow down. You tend not to notice it as much in an ICE because its efficiency is so poor at low speeds with an idling engine consuming lots of fuel even if you aren't moving much.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false

 

[RonDawg]

Okay, so it sounds like you are following these trucks very closely. You are getting the benefit of drafting, but there is a reason why it is not legal -- it is VERY DANGEROUS!

Take a good look at the backside of those big rigs. Then try to imagine a collision between that.... and your car. The so-called "bumpers" attached to trucks are little more than welded angle-iron of questionable strength and in some cases even that is missing -- perfect for a small car to ride underneath and have the driver decapitated.

In my opinion, give a larger-than-normal following distance behind trucks, not shorter. Drafting a truck is a dangerous stunt.

This. And if you want to see just how ineffective many if these these trailer under-rider guards are, check out this video courtesy of IIHS: http://youtu.be/C3MPKLy9qHU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[RonDawg]

Yes I do benefit from drafting so to speak but I try to keep at least 2 car lengths. Is always safe to do? No. But if you're on a highway experiencing range anxiety because your battery is low, it may be one of your few options.

The Mythbusters did a segment on drafting, and IIRC to get any real effect you have to get REALLY close to the back of the semi.

I'd rather be stranded with an empty battery than be decapitated from when that semi in front has to slam on its brakes.

 

[donald]

We took a 115 mile each way road trip last month in our new leaf. One DC Quick charge and two L2 charges going, and same in reverse. .... Going I tried to keep it at 60mph and on the return more like 70mph.

It is not too illogical to drive 60/70 if you are heading for a QC because it will charge quicker than you use power.

But heading for an L2, surely you should simply slow down!? It takes longer to charge up the extra power you use than to simply slow down and take longer to get there!

Taking the DOE figures generously, call it 4.5M/kWh at 50 and 3M/kWh at 70.

So if you drive, say, 20 miles you use;
4.45kWh in 24 minutes at 50, or
6.67kWh in 17 minutes at 70.

Question is, how much longer does it now take to recharge the extra 2.2kWh used. At 6.6kW, that'd be 20 minutes.

So at 70 takes 37 minutes, and at 50 takes 24 minutes. (Distance actually traveled need not be 20 miles. The figures would all change proportionately.)

Of course, if you are already planning to stop for 20 extra minutes, then that complicates the calculation, but bottom line is if you want to go further, drive slower.

 

[IraqiInvaderGnr]

The best why I learned to get around this is to get behind a big rig or tour bus that is traveling about 65 mph or less ....
.... this could be considered as tailgating depending on the state you live in. So, it is very possible that you could be issued a citation for doing this if you're not careful!

Okay, so it sounds like you are following these trucks very closely. You are getting the benefit of drafting, but there is a reason why it is not legal -- it is VERY DANGEROUS!

Take a good look at the backside of those big rigs. Then try to imagine a collision between that.... and your car. The so-called "bumpers" attached to trucks are little more than welded angle-iron of questionable strength and in some cases even that is missing -- perfect for a small car to ride underneath and have the driver decapitated.

In my opinion, give a larger-than-normal following distance behind trucks, not shorter. Drafting a truck is a dangerous stunt.

You'll get plenty of benefit just by slowing down. Pacing a slow-moving truck is a good way to do it, as it keeps other drivers off your tail. Just don't follow too closely.

I have to speak first hand about this. It is just stupid to follow a 18-wheeler that close. No joke if you are within a full 18-wheeler length of the back of my trailer I cannot see you. Ever see a truck driver weave in his lane a little? More times than not that driver is trying to see what's behind him. Unsafe? no actually that little weave let's us know your there. We may have brake lag and our tail lights will light up 1/2 second before the air gets to the brakes to slow/stop the truck down but believe me that is not enough time for you to react. This is one of my peeves as a truck driver. As a commercial driver I am responsible for your safety as well as mine. You hit me you get charged with a at-fault accident but did you know that I get charged with a Preventable accident which in DOT and Employers eyes is essentially the same thing.

Long post short just be cautious around us and give us plenty of space.