Is this charger good to get? 3.3 on board charging

[ataman]

So I finally was able to find a Nissan Leaf after about a month of searching and calling. I waited for the dealer to get one in stock and it just came in! I am going to get it this Monday.

Do to demand the dealer said that he ordered it with the charging package but Nissan sent it out without the charging package (This was all told to me before I put the deposit down on the car, he didn't order it for me)

The Nissan Leaf S will be coming without the quick charging package. Since it is only 3.3kw on board charging the max that it can withdrawal is 16 amps correct? This charging station should fit my needs with this car correct? If I understand correctly the 30 amp ones are only for the 6.6kw on board. With this charger it should charge my car in 8 hours verse the 21 hours of level one and verses the 4 hours of the 30 amp charger.

8 hours is quick enough for me since my car sits in the garage more then 8 hours per day.

http://www.pluginnow.com/power-max" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The 16amp/12' cord one.

I would not even get that car....

3.3 is much slower when you are low and without QC, you will be very limited...

I have heard so many people trading in their LEAF just to get another one with QC...

 

[dgpcolorado]

You should check the National Electric Code about the voltage drop.
My guess is that johnrhansen is probably correct, that 12/2 with ground will probably be OK.
But if it was me, I'd run 10/2 with ground.
The incremental cost is pretty modest for a 100' run.
The greater resistance and voltage drop of the 12/2 just ends up being wasted power loss. Even if it is modest, better to run the 10/2 with ground for a 100' run. Especially for a continuous load that is running at 80% of the amperage rating of the circuit.

I will second this for all the reasons stated. For a small increased cost in wire, why not reduce the voltage drop?

If the OP ever contemplates getting a higher current EVSE in the future, for another EV with a faster charger, an even lower gauge wire might help "future-proof" that long run.

 

[jkendt1989]

So I finally was able to find a Nissan Leaf after about a month of searching and calling. I waited for the dealer to get one in stock and it just came in! I am going to get it this Monday.

Do to demand the dealer said that he ordered it with the charging package but Nissan sent it out without the charging package (This was all told to me before I put the deposit down on the car, he didn't order it for me)

The Nissan Leaf S will be coming without the quick charging package. Since it is only 3.3kw on board charging the max that it can withdrawal is 16 amps correct? This charging station should fit my needs with this car correct? If I understand correctly the 30 amp ones are only for the 6.6kw on board. With this charger it should charge my car in 8 hours verse the 21 hours of level one and verses the 4 hours of the 30 amp charger.

8 hours is quick enough for me since my car sits in the garage more then 8 hours per day.

http://www.pluginnow.com/power-max" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The 16amp/12' cord one.

I would not even get that car....

3.3 is much slower when you are low and without QC, you will be very limited...

I have heard so many people trading in their LEAF just to get another one with QC...

I understand your point if you drive a lot. But you have to understand my circumstances. I drive on average 4-5 miles per day, some days 10 when I do the gym and things like that. On the weekends will be the biggest use. Most likely 50 miles or so. My car sits in my garage more then 8 hours a night not to mention the time I am home during the day on the weekends in between. 4 vs 8 hour charging will not make much a difference for me. I live in a town so I do not have to go far not to mention there are few stations besides my Nissan dealer. That is 2 miles from my house so I have no idea why I'd ever charge there.

Maybe after the lease when more level 3 stations become common. But as of now there is absolutely no reason for me to have the charge package. I can't think of any situation where I will drive more then 75 miles within an 8 hours period.

Plus I had enough time finding an S in white that I wanted let alone being picky about the charging package.

Honestly I could probably get away with level 1 charging 90% of the time. I am only getting level 2 so I don't have to worry about it plus I can install it myself for a little over 50$. We have another car too don't forget. We will not be limited.

I get about 320 miles per tank of gas. That last me close to two weeks if not more. That's only 4.2 charges at 75 miles per charge. Trust me if I felt we needed the package I'd of gotten it. I have ran the numbers many times. Our one car only goes through about $30 of gas a month!

 

[RonDawg]

I understand your point if you drive a lot. But you have to understand my circumstances. I drive on average 4-5 miles per day, some days 10 when I do the gym and things like that. On the weekends will be the biggest use. Most likely 50 miles or so. My car sits in my garage more then 8 hours a night not to mention the time I am home during the day on the weekends in between. 4 vs 8 hour charging will not make much a difference for me. I live in a town so I do not have to go far not to mention there are few stations besides my Nissan dealer. That is 2 miles from my house so I have no idea why I'd ever charge there.

Maybe after the lease when more level 3 stations become common. But as of now there is absolutely no reason for me to have the charge package. I can't think of any situation where I will drive more then 75 miles within an 8 hours period.

As long as you understand the limitations of that particular model (slower charger, no QC, more power-hungry heater, no cruise control, no B mode, no CarWings, less-useful charge timer, no nav system, Bluetooth phone but not music streaming) you're good to go.

 

[smkettner]

3.3 and no QC here and no regrets. I do wish LEAF had more range at times. But charging faster at home or destination has never really been an issue.

 

[Reddy]

^^^^^^ Same with me. Sounds like you've got a similar use pattern as me. L1 is working just fine for me and it sounds like it will work fine for you too.

 

[jkendt1989]

I understand your point if you drive a lot. But you have to understand my circumstances. I drive on average 4-5 miles per day, some days 10 when I do the gym and things like that. On the weekends will be the biggest use. Most likely 50 miles or so. My car sits in my garage more then 8 hours a night not to mention the time I am home during the day on the weekends in between. 4 vs 8 hour charging will not make much a difference for me. I live in a town so I do not have to go far not to mention there are few stations besides my Nissan dealer. That is 2 miles from my house so I have no idea why I'd ever charge there.

Maybe after the lease when more level 3 stations become common. But as of now there is absolutely no reason for me to have the charge package. I can't think of any situation where I will drive more then 75 miles within an 8 hours period.

As long as you understand the limitations of that particular model (slower charger, no QC, more power-hungry heater, no cruise control, no B mode, no CarWings, less-useful charge timer, no nav system, Bluetooth phone but not music streaming) you're good to go.

I am leasing it for 3 years and if it fits my needs and I love it I would like to buy one esp since in 3 years there should be some nice upgrades. Slow charging is fine as mentioned before, no QC is fine since there is not a level 3 charger within 100 miles of me. Cruise control I hardly use on my car now, only when I am going on a 200+ mile trip and I am on the high way for awhile. The other things are nice ad-don's sure but I do not need them. Again I will think about it after the 3 years. This car basically pays for itself once I figure the gas savings in. The point was to break even on a new car. Not pay an extra 150$ a month for luxury features. Thanks for the advice though!

 

[johnrhansen]

voltage drop for 200' #10 wire: 3.2 volts
voltage drop for 200' #12 wire 5.0 volts.

price 100' 10/2 $85
price 100' 12/2 $40

http://www.fleetfarm.com/category/home-improvement/electrical-supplies/wiring-supplies;jsessionid=A6237EEC5B411DCFEB8544BB47AEBB30.mff-store1-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You should check the National Electric Code about the voltage drop.
My guess is that johnrhansen is probably correct, that 12/2 with ground will probably be OK.
But if it was me, I'd run 10/2 with ground.
The incremental cost is pretty modest for a 100' run.
The greater resistance and voltage drop of the 12/2 just ends up being wasted power loss. Even if it is modest, better to run the 10/2 with ground for a 100' run. Especially for a continuous load that is running at 80% of the amperage rating of the circuit.

I will second this for all the reasons stated. For a small increased cost in wire, why not reduce the voltage drop?

If the OP ever contemplates getting a higher current EVSE in the future, for another EV with a faster charger, an even lower gauge wire might help "future-proof" that long run.

 

[jkendt1989]

voltage drop for 200' #10 wire: 3.2 volts
voltage drop for 200' #12 wire 5.0 volts.

price 100' 10/2 $85
price 100' 12/2 $40

http://www.fleetfarm.com/category/home-improvement/electrical-supplies/wiring-supplies;jsessionid=A6237EEC5B411DCFEB8544BB47AEBB30.mff-store1-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You should check the National Electric Code about the voltage drop.
My guess is that johnrhansen is probably correct, that 12/2 with ground will probably be OK.
But if it was me, I'd run 10/2 with ground.
The incremental cost is pretty modest for a 100' run.
The greater resistance and voltage drop of the 12/2 just ends up being wasted power loss. Even if it is modest, better to run the 10/2 with ground for a 100' run. Especially for a continuous load that is running at 80% of the amperage rating of the circuit.

I will second this for all the reasons stated. For a small increased cost in wire, why not reduce the voltage drop?

If the OP ever contemplates getting a higher current EVSE in the future, for another EV with a faster charger, an even lower gauge wire might help "future-proof" that long run.

What do you mean by that with the prices?

 

[johnrhansen]

Oh, I haven't bought wire for so long. I just looked how much a 100 foot roll of each cost online. Just a google search. Looks like the 10 gauge is twice the price of 12. Home depot might be different. I just figured you were using romex cable. If it is exposed (where hands can touch it) you need to use armored flex which is twice as much I think.

 

[planet4ever]

If it is exposed (where hands can touch it) you need to use armored flex which is twice as much I think.

In most places you can also use "liquidtight" non-metalic conduit. I prefer it because it is a snap to cut, never leaves sharp edges at the cut, doesn't corrode, and I think looks a lot nicer.

Ray

 

[jkendt1989]

Why do people look down on the S model so badly? The S model has more features then my 02 Subaru that was the highest package and model of it's time. Only Thing my Subaru has that is different is the leather interior. Heck the S has more features and comfort things then the Subaru has. I don't get why I would need a GPS when I can only drive 100 miles at a time max.

 

[davewill]

Why do people look down on the S model so badly? The S model has more features then my 02 Subaru that was the highest package and model of it's time. Only Thing my Subaru has that is different is the leather interior. Heck the S has more features and comfort things then the Subaru has. I don't get why I would need a GPS when I can only drive 100 miles at a time max.

A lot of people have bought the S, so I don't really think it is looked down on. As far as GPS, it's really helpful finding a place I haven't been before...and there are plenty of places in town I haven't been to before.

 

[dgpcolorado]

Why do people look down on the S model so badly? The S model has more features then my 02 Subaru that was the highest package and model of it's time. Only Thing my Subaru has that is different is the leather interior. Heck the S has more features and comfort things then the Subaru has. I don't get why I would need a GPS when I can only drive 100 miles at a time max.

While it does depend on what you want in a car there are some things that the S lacks that are quite useful:

Cruise Control. Can help with efficient driving but I find it useful because the LEAF is so quiet it is very easy to speed in low speed zones and setting the cruise can help with that.

More efficient heat-pump heater. That's not a big deal for folks in the sunbelt — quite the contrary: the S AC might be more efficient than on the SV/SL. But it is a big deal when stretching the range in cold weather.

Carwings for remote control of charging or preheating/precooling. Yes, it is a luxury and I won't pay for it when my free subscription is up, but it can be quite useful for some people. And the Carwings/Nav system setup allows for much more useful charge/climate control timers as well as a very useful energy screen for those of us who care about driving efficiently.

B mode. Having extra regen is a really big deal for those of us who live in the mountains. It also will allow single pedal driving, something some EV fans really appreciate, although it can be an acquired taste.


So, yes, some of the stuff is pretty trivial, such as the wheels, LED headlights, or leather seats. But some of the things lacking on the S can make a considerable difference in the utility and comfort in using the car.

 

[TimLee]

^^^+1
Each person has their own needs and choices to make. Several very involved MNL members bought the 2013 S.
But for me, if I was leasing a 2013 I would want the heat pump heater and the 6 kW on board charger and the cruise control. The advantage of having the first two items would make me definitely go with the SV or SL.
To each his own.

 

[Staque]

6KW is very nice when you're far from home. (As nice as it can get without QC for now.)

 

[johnrhansen]

One thing about the heat pump on the more premium versions... I'm not so sure how useful that will be for me. In Seattle I have found most of the time when I need heat, I need defrost. When defrost mode is selected, the a/c and the resistance elements kick on together. No heat pump. When it's really cold and you don't need defrost, it is below 32 degrees, and again, no heat pump. The resistance heaters are what is used in very cold temperatures. The only time the heat pump is of any use is on those rare cool dry days when the heated seats will suit me just fine.

 

[TomT]

Because a lot has changed in 12 years... And I'm sure your Subaru at least had cruise control...

Why do people look down on the S model so badly? The S model has more features then my 02 Subaru that was the highest package and model of it's time.

 

[TimLee]

When it's really cold and you don't need defrost, it is below 32 degrees, and again, no heat pump. The resistance heaters are what is used in very cold temperatures.

The graph in the Japanese specification data indicated the heat pump had substantially increased efficiency down to fairly cold, IIRC something in the 0 F to 5 F range. Similar to the home high efficiency split units that have become much more widely adapted over the past 10+ years in the US, been available in Europe and Japan for nearly 20 years. Have you experienced energy readings that indicate this is incorrect, and little efficiency gain from the heat pump heater below 32 F?

 

[johnrhansen]

I bought a 2013 s with a charge package. I have the old fashioned ac with resistance heaters. I got this info from the owner's manual. It says when the temp goes below 32F the heat pump quits working and the resistance elements go on. Maybe it's wrong... I don't know. It's moot for me anyway since I don't have a heat pump on mine and I won't be buying another electric vehicle until tesla comes out with a pickup truck!