LEAFSpy Newbie Questions

[PianoAl]

38.80 is the version have.

 

[PianoAl]

I'm unable to find the place to calibrate the 12 volt battery in the settings. Maybe I need new glasses?

 

[dhanson865]

I'm unable to find the place to calibrate the 12 volt battery in the settings. Maybe I need new glasses?

No need for glasses, there is no such feature in the app. Why are you trying to "calibrate the 12 volt battery"?

 

[PianoAl]

I got that from this:

http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/Leaf_Spy_Pro

Must be wrong. It says:

The program provides:

Gids as a raw number or a percentage of 281 (the usual maximum reading of a new Leaf)
The percentage state of charge (SOC)
Information on the voltage of each of the 96 cell pairs in the battery pack
Which cells have their shunts currently active (this is the battery balancing) - there is some disagreement about which setting correctly shows which cells have shunts active. Gary Giddings believes it is 4812, GregH is sure it is 8421. You can choose which order is used on the Settings Screen of the application.
The maximum difference in cell pair voltages (tells you whether the pack is well balanced or not)
The voltage of your 12 volt battery (requires calibration with a voltmeter)

And

The Settings Screen allows you to customize the application - select imperial or metric units, set screen colors, lock to portrait or landscape mode if desired, enable logging, calibrate the 12 volt battery voltage, and debug.

http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/File:Settings_Screen_3.png

 

[LeafMuranoDriver]

What do the white arrows show, and what is it that's at 103.6%?

It looks like you have the old version of Leafspy Pro, the latest version fixed that error and puts the triangles at the end of the colored bar. It's just for looks and the version you are running has a bug showing them in the wrong spot.

Current Version 0.38.80, check the play store for updates.


as to the 103.6% that refers to the 291 GIDs vs the expected max. I'd suggest you tap on the 291 GIDs until that section says 97.2% SOC in the big section instead of GIDs, then % GIDs will be the small item on the right and you can ignore it (though it'll still say 103.6% in the small numbers).

At least I prefer to ignore GIDs. You can mess with them if you want but GID math gets messy when you compare to someone else's car. kWh is universal, GIDs aren't.

I explained above how to correct this. You can make your max GIDs read 100%, no need to have it state more than that.

I actually prefer GID's over SOC.

 

[Tonyt]

My new battery was recently installed. When I first checked my battery I had a 40mv difference between the high and low. I've checked more often and still have 35-45mv difference. Is this something I should bring back to the dealer?

Thanks!

6. balance of cells. If the lowest cell vs the highest cell is 4mv its outstanding, if its 40mv its bad. A really out of balance cell sticks out like a sore thumb and is a sign you may have a pack failure in your near future. Nice to know if you don't like sitting on the side of the road.

 

[dhanson865]

My new battery was recently installed. When I first checked my battery I had a 40mv difference between the high and low. I've checked more often and still have 35-45mv difference. Is this something I should bring back to the dealer?

Thanks!

Did you get a whole new pack or just new cells in an existing pack?

35-45 is not the end of the world per se but would be more common to see if you are

* not charging to 100% regularly
* checking mv difference at very low SOC (like below 20% SOC)
* driving very few miles per day or per week.

If you see 20mv at a full charge and 40mv at a lower charge don't worry. If you see 40mv at a full charge and worse at a low charge, you might want to start a new thread and post your leafspy screenshots.

You can try to balance the pack by charging on 120V to 100% and leaving it plugged in for several hours after the charge "completes" but I'd suggest you try that on a cold day in Winter. Prolonged 100% charge is bad if the pack is warm, but not an issue in cold temps.

If you tend to charge to less than 80% you might want to do a charge to 100% several times per winter.

When I first got my used leaf I was seeing high imbalance and after a while of driving the car it improved. And continued to get better. But then I was charging on 120V at work all winter and 240V at home on top of that.

Maybe I should edit that line to say 4 is ideal, 40 is bad, much higher than 40 something unusual might be in the cars history? Maybe better to say if you see that number shift quickly that is a warning sign. Stable numbers may just be a sign of your charge/use pattern.

 

[Tonyt]

My new battery was recently installed. When I first checked my battery I had a 40mv difference between the high and low. I've checked more often and still have 35-45mv difference. Is this something I should bring back to the dealer?

Thanks!

Did you get a whole new pack or just new cells in an existing pack?

35-45 is not the end of the world per se but would be more common to see if you are

* not charging to 100% regularly
* checking mv difference at very low SOC (like below 20% SOC)
* driving very few miles per day or per week.

If you see 20mv at a full charge and 40mv at a lower charge don't worry. If you see 40mv at a full charge and worse at a low charge, you might want to start a new thread and post your leafspy screenshots.

You can try to balance the pack by charging on 120V to 100% and leaving it plugged in for several hours after the charge "completes" but I'd suggest you try that on a cold day in Winter. Prolonged 100% charge is bad if the pack is warm, but not an issue in cold temps.

If you tend to charge to less than 80% you might want to do a charge to 100% several times per winter.

When I first got my used leaf I was seeing high imbalance and after a while of driving the car it improved. And continued to get better. But then I was charging on 120V at work all winter and 240V at home on top of that.

I got a totally new pack.

I've only done a few 100% charges, I didn't set a start timer and did not want to wake up in the middle of the night to unplug the charger.

I've done 2 days of 100 miles driving.

I've only hit LBW once on this pack, but I was too tired to check the imbalance last night.

I currently see the 35-45 after charging, does not matter if it is full charge or not. I've only had the battery for one week so far.

I'll keep an eye on it and start a new thread with post from leafspy if things don't get better.

 

[SJEVer]

Someone with a LeafSpyPro and dongle did me the favor of switching the setting of when auto-unlock is triggered so it now unlocks all doors when I shift into Park. Hubby and I both are in the habit of shifting into park before shutoff anyway (some who don't do that dislike the fact that it is an either-or: with the Park setting, the doors don't unlock if you shut off the engine without switching into park), and I really like being able to let off a passenger without having to shut down the car or fumble for the inconvenient (and non-illuminated) unlock switch on the door.

 

[jlv]

I've only done a few 100% charges, I didn't set a start timer and did not want to wake up in the middle of the night to unplug the charger.

Why do you think you need to wake up in the middle of the night to unplug the car?

 

[Tonyt]

I've only done a few 100% charges, I didn't set a start timer and did not want to wake up in the middle of the night to unplug the charger.

Why do you think you need to wake up in the middle of the night to unplug the car?

Good question, I think it was a response for some other question. I don't really remember too well as it was too many months ago. I'm guessing this.....

For a few days after my battery was replaced I was not getting the 80 or so miles on a full charge, I was trying to not charge to 100% and didn't want to change the setting to 80% because I'm not the only one who drives the car and would likely forget to change it back.