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Before creating my own step-by-step guide, does anyone have good pictures of all the connections to be made? I can look and learn from them before I attempt to build my own system. For example, where should the fuses be place, where should the 240 to 12V DC connector be spliced in, the L1/L2 splice connections, etc.

Thanks!
 
Workshop Update

http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/OpenEVSE_Workshop?ts=1352676672&updated=OpenEVSE_Workshop

For those building custom EVSEs (Option 2) do not forget to order you Enclosures, fuses/circuit breakers, power cord (if needed), J1772 cable/Contactor (if you did not add the option(s)).

Here are a couple of ideas for enclosures. Links for a couple standard plastic NEMA enclosures below. Here is a link for Industrial Steel type enclosures http://www.enclosurehub.com/.

The large one is was used by mwolrich in his build . The nice thing about this enclosure is it has a bottom and top plate so you can mount the LCD, Circuit breakers etc. on the top plate and then close the clear plastic cover to keep it water tight. http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/75AOpenEVSE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . You may be able to get by with the smaller one if you package everything well but I would check the dimensions carefully. The largest component is the Contactor which is about 4.2" cubed.

11"L x 7.5"W x 5.5"H
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NBE-10563/377-1146-ND/387065
Mounting Panel
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NBX-10985/NBX-10985-ND/439529

15"L x 11"W 6.2"H
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NBE-10567/377-1147-ND/387066
Mounting panel
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NBX-10987/NBX-10987-ND/439531

For those building with a cord you will need internal fuses or a circuit breaker. Here are 2 ideas for breakers (50A for 40A EVSE) there are tons of options on Digikey so feel free to explore. One is chassis mount which would allow the breaker to be accessed externally the second mounts on a DIN rail and would be inside the EVSE. The choice may be influenced by the enclosure choice.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/W92-X112-50/PB439-ND/365874

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/C50A2P/288-1223-ND/480083

Builder Slots
1. Zoner...............confirmed - Option 1 (for sale after Workshop)
2. Tony Williams....confirmed - Option 2 (add J1772 add 75A contactor)
3. Waidy...............confirmed - Option 2 (add J1772 add 75A contactor)
4. Garygid...........confirmed - Option 1 add 4 extra fuses
5. Dori................confirmed - Option 1
6. MashedPotato...confirmed - Option 1
7. 91040..............confirmed - Option 1
8. Robert..............confirmed - Option 2 (add J1772 add 75A contactor)

Parts added to group buy (OpenEVSE plus board may not be avaliable until after the workshop and may be shipped at a later date.
tbleakne.............Option 2 less LCD
QueenBee...........Option 1
Garygid..............Option 1 (second unit)
SolPower............Option 1
Waidy................Option 2 (second unit)
 
goldserve said:
Before creating my own step-by-step guide, does anyone have good pictures of all the connections to be made? I can look and learn from them before I attempt to build my own system. For example, where should the fuses be place, where should the 240 to 12V DC connector be spliced in, the L1/L2 splice connections, etc.
The schematic shows the correct electrical 'placement' of all the parts - The physical placement within the EVSE box or container is 100% up to the builder, which is why most Open EVSEs you see pictures of look completely different from one another

Don
 
Which schematics are you talking about? The v4 schematics are only board level and not system level schematics. Thanks!
 
I just acquired a Clipper Creek CS-40 (30 amp) and I sent the Circiut board to be reflashed to 40 or 60 amps. The Square D relay in the CS-40 is rated at 65 amps.

Then, pop on a 75 amp EVSE cable, and I should have yet another highly capable and dependable EVSE.

I expect the mods to be under $300.
 
TonyWilliams said:
I just acquired a Clipper Creek CS-40 (30 amp) and I sent the Circiut board to be reflashed to 40 or 60 amps. The Square D relay in the CS-40 is rated at 65 amps.

Then, pop on a 75 amp EVSE cable, and I should have yet another highly capable and dependable EVSE.

I expect the mods to be under $300.

it will be rated at 60A when you are done, your limited by maximum rating of any single component, and in your case, it appears the 65A max on the contactor will be your limiting factor.
 
goldserve said:
Where does the ferrite core live. Is it absolutely necessary? One of the cracked in transit.
The proper placement of the ferrite filter cores are where the power enters the EVSE enclosure and the power exits the Enclosure on the J1772 cable.
The cores are not absolutely necessary, but filter out unwanted noise on the power conductors. If I only had one core to use I would place it on the power input.
(The white and black conductors feeding the circuit breaker in the photo below)
8171213108_a6df16271f.jpg


Greg C.
 
One last question. It appears that the 240v L1/L2 sense requires two hots and neutral connected as well correct? Thanks!
 
Can we order some of these noise-reducing ferrite
"tubes" (cores) for our construction at the workshop?

As shown in the picture above it would appear that
these two ferrite cores might keep some of the noise
generated by the car from getting back into the house?

If one knows the right source, hopefully they are not
too expensive to consider adding.

Is there a link to the source, please?
 
Would it be easy to add an OFF button (or switch) to the workshop EVSE?

Presumably a power switch to turn off the power to the electronics
would serve as an emergency Off, a way to reboot if necessary, and
a way to turn the power off for periods of non-use?

Or, are there better suggestions?
Thanks, Gary
 
goldserve said:
One last question. It appears that the 240v L1/L2 sense requires two hots and neutral connected as well correct? Thanks!

Almost, it requires 2 hots on the J1772 side of the relay and Ground. The sense chip does more than sence L1/L2 it also checks for stuck relay and for a good ground. Neutral is not needed for any reason in an EVSE.
 
garygid said:
Can we order some of these noise-reducing ferrite
"tubes" (cores) for our construction at the workshop?

As shown in the picture above it would appear that
these two ferrite cores might keep some of the noise
generated by the car from getting back into the house?

If one knows the right source, hopefully they are not
too expensive to consider adding.

Is there a link to the source, please?

I have a bunch of these cores, those who would like to add them are welcome to do so.
 
garygid said:
Would it be easy to add an OFF button (or switch) to the workshop EVSE?

Presumably a power switch to turn off the power to the electronics
would serve as an emergency Off, a way to reboot if necessary, and
a way to turn the power off for periods of non-use?

Or, are there better suggestions?
Thanks, Gary

You could install a switch interrupting power to the controller if you really wanted to, however it does add some risk... Accidently turning off power to an EVSE mid charge could damage the relays as the EV would not get the proper signal to stop pulling power. OpenEVSE was designed to be very efficient, it uses less power when charging than most others do at idle. During charge a fully loaded OpenEVSE with RGB LCD uses about 2.25 - 2.5 watts most for the relay. During idle it consumes less than a watt. The current version uses a dual voltage switch mode power supply outputting both 12v and 5v, there are no linear regulators at all.

The current software does allow you to properly stop charging using the button. You can also reset the EVSE using the menu options.
 
garygid said:
Would it be easy to add an OFF button (or switch) to the workshop EVSE?

Presumably a power switch to turn off the power to the electronics
would serve as an emergency Off, a way to reboot if necessary, and
a way to turn the power off for periods of non-use?

Or, are there better suggestions?
Thanks, Gary
Personally, I'd use a plug and outlet for that purpose. My Blink has 6-50P on it, and unplugging is quick and easy and gives me a high degree of confidence that it's really powered off. If you're going to hard wire, then it might make sense to add a local cutoff, but I'd do it external to the EVSE. That way, you can kill power and work inside the EVSE case in confidence that nothing's live. An internal switch wouldn't quite accomplish that. I concur with Chris that you want to be sure to unplug from the car before killing power...both to protect the relays, and to protect the OBC.
 
The OpenEVSE that I built and measured drew 107 Ma or .107A in standby. At 12V it draws 1.3W. At that tiny drain it is not worth turning it off.

If I had an early EVSE like the blink it would be worth turning it off to save energy.
 
chris1howell said:
garygid said:
Can we order some of these noise-reducing ferrite
"tubes" (cores) for our construction at the workshop?

As shown in the picture above it would appear that
these two ferrite cores might keep some of the noise
generated by the car from getting back into the house?

If one knows the right source, hopefully they are not
too expensive to consider adding.

Is there a link to the source, please?

I have a bunch of these cores, those who would like to add them are welcome to do so.
OK, please bring them to the workshop.
I would like to try inserting two on each of my Open EVSE projects.
I will be happy to pay you for them.
Thanks, Gary
 
Chris,
What do you want each EVSE-Building person to bring
to your workshop next Saturday (1 Dec)?

What are optional things for them to bring if they have it?

What things do you want us to locate and bring for you?

Do you need help setting anything up?

Do we need chairs?

Cheers, Gary
 
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