Phoenix and Hot Climate Leafs - Try L1 Charging

[jfreire]

When switching from L2 to L1 charging, did you change EVSE? If so, what are the EVSE models you're using?

I'm running on a theory that what's destroying the batteries is a combination of factors, and one is the EVSE...

The EVSE does nothing but switch the power on and off. It has no effect on that actual battery charging which is done by the car's internal battery charger.

That's not quite true. The EVSE implements the J1772 protocol and negotiates the amount of power to deliver.

It's a very simple protocol, but who knows? The GE WattStation was burning the electronics on some special conditions, so why not look at the EVSE models out there as suspects?

 

[smkettner]

For slowest L1 get a Leviton 120 and use 7 amp setting. (120v)

Just keep in mind in the US the Nissan L1 is 120v 12 amps. Europe L1 I assume is 230v and 12a or less.

 

[mikesri]

Copied from the lost 1 bar thread...

Hi everyone.
We've been following this thread for a while wondering when the dreaded lost bar will strike... About
3 to 4 weeks ago I noticed that the SOC indication was only achieving 9 of 10 bars for an 80%
target. Finally two weeks ago we lost our first capacity bar. We're really disappointed and concerned as this relates to a 15% loss already and if the rate of capacity loss doesn't slow, the car will become unusable for all but the lightest duty trips. We bought our SL with 10 miles on it in Sept last year and noted 11k miles when we lost our bar on August 11. We never installed the L2 charger since we were planning on changing houses and the L1 was adequate for our needs. We have always used the charge timer to begin charging at 9PM on weekdays and allowed charging to 80% anytime of the day on weekends when electricity cost is lower. Our charging habits are as follows:

Location: Phoenix, AZ
100% - Maybe 10 to 20 times.
80% - Approx 300 times
QC - Approx 5 times
L2 - Approx 20 times
L1 - Approx all remaining charges.

The car has always been parked outside as I don't have room in the garage and is probably better to charge outside at night because it would treat the battery better. By the way, if anyone remembers, there is a thread started by phxsmiley which talks about a co-worker who had not lost a bar and primarily uses L1 charging... this is that car! We will be reporting this to Nissan tomorrow and get their "official" response and have the incident properly logged.

Our range has been noticeably diminished from new and continues to degrade. Other than this capacity loss problem, we really love this car. We use it for all our errands, transporting kids, commuting to work and some short jogs. It definitely has taken a lot of miles off our other vehicle (an odyssey van) and saves money on gas. If, however, we have to replace the battery every other year for the car remain useful, then it was not what was advertised. I would hate see the entire model line labeled as a "lemon", but if this were an ICE that needed a new engine every couple of years of standard use, then the name would fit. Would that make it a Lemon Leaf? I guess time will tell...

 

[jstack6]

Mike,

Every LEAF I have checked with a proto type SCAN GAUGE and gid metter show a big loss in capacity. We are all still trying to get Nissan to help fix the heat issue. Tesla and the FORD Focus EV have liquid cooling and they only lose 1% a year or less. The LEAF vehicles we have checked lose about 10% a year, even with low miles. I just checked one a week ago with only 9,200 miles and it was only at 82% with a 100% charge.

So far the only thing that can be done is file for lemon law repurchase as outlines in your Nissan manual. The LEAF will suffer in 20-30% of the world where it get over 100F.

It's interesting Nissan made the battery heater standard ,yet cold is only a temporary loss. While they have said heat loss capacity at 10% a year is normal and expected. Either cooling or a better chemistry is needed to make the LEAF a true world car.