switching to Eco mode "on the fly"

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tggibson

New member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
3
We are new (two-week) owners of a 2014 Leaf S. Contrary to an illustration and
text in the owner's manual, there is no Eco mode button on the steering wheel.
I'm guessing that the only way to switch our model of Leaf into Eco mode is
to "double toggle" the shift knob (not sure of my nomenclature here). Can anyone
out there confirm that? Also, using the shift knob, can you switch to Eco mode
as you are driving (i.e., not at a stop)?

Thanks in advance for any information you might provide.

Terry
2014 Leaf S
SF Bay Area (US)
 
I believe the steering wheel button for eco mode is for SV and SL models only. The shifter knob method is the only way in the S to turn on eco mode. In the SV and SL, the shifter knob activates "B" mode for increased regenerative braking which is not available in the S.

I can switch to B mode with the shifter while driving in the SL, so I would assume you can switch to eco in the S, but I don't know that for sure.
 
I switch from D mode, to B mode, to Eco and out of Eco all day long while driving. No Problems at all.
 
I don't do any of these. I drive in D all day long, month after month, year after year.

Believe me, ECO & B and such hardly do anything to increase your range. Don't do jack rabbit starts and sudden stops, accelerate gently and maintain speed of 65mph or less, and that should give you a range as good as anything all those Mickey mouse gimmicks do.
 
mkjayakumar said:
Believe me, ECO & B and such hardly do anything to increase your range.

I'm going to guess it's pretty flat in Plano, as the name suggests? In which case you're right. But around our home and workplaces everything is ~400 foot mesas crisscrossed by sea level canyons with the roads constantly going up and down. If we coast down hill in D, we get way less regeneration, and have to use the brakes more. In Eco, we get plenty of regen and a nice braking effect. I'm not saying it dramatically boosts our ultimate range, but it definitely is not 'hardly anything' - a minute of shoving 30kW back into the battery, even with the associated losses, can't help but make up somewhat for the other minute we are about to spend at 40kW to get up the other side. May not be quite as dramatic depending on where in the bay area the OP lives, but I reckon he's going to get some help from Eco or B mode. We actually just drive in Eco all the time, you can still stomp on the go pedal if you need to.
 
I drove the first 6 months in D with Eco on and now I've been using only B with Eco on of Off depending if I need to beat a Mustang at the light! I've been getting home at night with more range leftover driving in B mode YMMV.
 
wsbca said:
mkjayakumar said:
Believe me, ECO & B and such hardly do anything to increase your range.

I'm going to guess it's pretty flat in Plano, as the name suggests? In which case you're right. But around our home and workplaces everything is ~400 foot mesas crisscrossed by sea level canyons with the roads constantly going up and down. If we coast down hill in D, we get way less regeneration, and have to use the brakes more. In Eco, we get plenty of regen and a nice braking effect. I'm not saying it dramatically boosts our ultimate range, but it definitely is not 'hardly anything' - a minute of shoving 30kW back into the battery, even with the associated losses, can't help but make up somewhat for the other minute we are about to spend at 40kW to get up the other side. May not be quite as dramatic depending on where in the bay area the OP lives, but I reckon he's going to get some help from Eco or B mode. We actually just drive in Eco all the time, you can still stomp on the go pedal if you need to.

Exactly. His example isn't a good one for everywhere. I get a lot of regen and limited use of my brakes driving in B mode all the time.
 
When you use the brakes it just uses regen anyway correct? So little difference? You can coast in ECO just like D but you have to keep your foot on the gas a little which keeps the 1 ball right in the middle?

wsbca said:
mkjayakumar said:
If we coast down hill in D, we get way less regeneration, and have to use the brakes more.
 
The difference is that my brakes will last longer because I only use them to stop.


kieranmullen said:
When you use the brakes it just uses regen anyway correct? So little difference? You can coast in ECO just like D but you have to keep your foot on the gas a little which keeps the 1 ball right in the middle?

wsbca said:
mkjayakumar said:
If we coast down hill in D, we get way less regeneration, and have to use the brakes more.
 
kieranmullen said:
When you use the brakes it just uses regen anyway correct? So little difference? You can coast in ECO just like D but you have to keep your foot on the gas a little which keeps the 1 ball right in the middle?

wsbca said:
mkjayakumar said:
If we coast down hill in D, we get way less regeneration, and have to use the brakes more.

I'm not convinced that the brake pedal pressure is a transparent linear translation into a perfect simulation of Eco mode. Yes, braking does result in regen, but I think there's brake engagement as well, where if you are in Eco and just let off the accelerator you get the regen (and the slowing) without even moving your foot. Yes, in Eco you can feather the accelerator to avoid being slowed by the regen, but I think feathering the brake in D is not as effective/precise, as far as faking eco-ish regen. Not sure I'm explaining it well.
 
wsbca said:
mkjayakumar said:
Yes, braking does result in regen, but I think there's brake engagement as well, where if you are in Eco and just let off the accelerator you get the regen (and the slowing) without even moving your foot.

I am also a relatively new owner. I go back and forth on Eco mode. I'll throw in my 2 cents here. I have found that the brakes do not activate unless you either:

A. Hit the brake pedal fast. For instance if someone pulls out in front of you and you quickly hit the pedal. It seems that its dependent on the velocity that you strike the pedal. The dead give away for this is that the car barely regens as its stopping. You'll get a 1-2 bubbles of regen no matter how hard you push.

B. You exceed the ability of the regen. This one is fairly obvious however if you hit the pedal gradually and keep applying more and more force slowly you can feel the point when it switches over.

C. You are going too slow for the regen to work. As you come to a stop there is a point where the regen simply cannot stop you much anymore. This is where I can feel the transition between regen and brakes the most. You will feel the difference in the pedal. This threw me all off as I was first starting to drive the car and I would commonly hit the brakes harder thinking they were failing.

D. The battery is full. If the battery is full it cannot regen so the brakes are used. This is the only time that the brakes feel like a "normal" car to me.. There is no transition and the car smoothly coasts and comes to a stop. (I wish they had a mode to disable regen and have it behave like this when I want)

Not that I'm an expert (new owner also) but I don't think it engages the brakes unless one of the above occurs. At least not that I can feel in the car. I don't believe there is much difference at all between Eco mode regen and D mode regen as far as brake loss goes.


Off the topic a little however... I find I go further when I coast down hills and do not allow regen at all. Yes your speed will fluctuate however it saves a lot of energy. I drive in D mode typically and I try to avoid regen at all costs unless I am actually planning on stopping. The only time I use Eco mode is when I'm in really heavy traffic and need to stop frequently. I coast whenever possible. It takes a little while to get use to having to keep your foot on the gas pedal. Using this technique I can average 6.6miles per kW round trip to work which I'm still trying to beat. I'm sure its been discussed however regen isn't all that efficient. Its a last ditch effort to attempt to recover some energy. If you can coast you are MUCH better off doing that.
 
wsbca said:
I'm not convinced that the brake pedal pressure is a transparent linear translation into a perfect simulation of Eco mode. Yes, braking does result in regen, but I think there's brake engagement as well, where if you are in Eco and just let off the accelerator you get the regen (and the slowing) without even moving your foot. Yes, in Eco you can feather the accelerator to avoid being slowed by the regen, but I think feathering the brake in D is not as effective/precise, as far as faking eco-ish regen. Not sure I'm explaining it well.
I think you have it just about right. Using the brake pedal gives some regen (if the battery isn't cold or full) and some friction brakes and it is hard to tell how much of the latter is being applied. Using the increased regen in Eco (or B mode if you have it) can be a more efficient way to slow down as needed.

Eco allows more efficient driving in several other ways. Eco limits the heater output (but not on defrost setting!). If that prevents it from heating up as quickly as needed then it might help to use D for a bit then switch to Eco after the heater is warmed up. This is a bigger deal for the S model than the SV/SL models that have a heat pump.

Also, the Eco setting is power mapped, versus the acceleration mapped D. So, in Eco if you hold the A pedal in the same position it will give you the same power. This makes it much easier to control speed. It also allows one to hold a zero power position that is about the same as coasting. I'd venture to guess that nearly all LEAF hypermilers use Eco because of easier and more precise speed control.

It is worth mentioning that it is more efficient to coast (at typical driving speeds, not true at terminal velocity) than to use regen brakes*. And, short of shifting to neutral, it is much, much easier to coast in Eco than in D. The efficiency progression is something like this: slow gradually by coasting > slow using regen braking > slow using friction braking.

In general you want to maintain a steady speed and anticipate future slowing or stops by coasting, where it is safe to do so, then adding a bit of regen using D, then adding more regen using Eco, then adding more regen using the brake pedal lightly and finally using friction brakes to stop. It also helps efficiency a great deal to accelerate gently and that is also much easier to do in Eco.

The only time that D is helpful is when using cruise control (the S model doesn't have it) on undulating terrain. Then less regen braking will be used when going downhill in cruise in D than in Eco. But the energy savings is pretty trivial most of the time.

Like some other mountain drivers here, I adjust my speed using coasting, D, Eco, and the brake pedal as needed — I consider it kind of a game. But only when traffic conditions permit, of course. [B mode would be very helpful but I don't have it on my older car.]

For more on efficient driving I suggest taking a look at Stoaty's Guide to Energy Efficient Driving of the Leaf.


* Why? Because regen is quite inefficient in energy recapture and storage in the battery. Better than the 100% loss to heat with friction brakes but much less efficient than coasting at moderate speeds.
 
tggibson said:
We are new (two-week) owners of a 2014 Leaf S. Contrary to an illustration and
text in the owner's manual, there is no Eco mode button on the steering wheel.
I'm guessing that the only way to switch our model of Leaf into Eco mode is
to "double toggle" the shift knob (not sure of my nomenclature here). Can anyone
out there confirm that? Also, using the shift knob, can you switch to Eco mode
as you are driving (i.e., not at a stop)?

Thanks in advance for any information you might provide.

Terry
2014 Leaf S
SF Bay Area (US)

the LEAF now remembers what mode you prefer so the double shifting is only required if you wish to change your mode.

as far as shifting back and forth, you may do so to your heart's content. I also add neutral to my shifting patterns but rarely use regular drive
 
kieranmullen said:
When you use the brakes it just uses regen anyway correct? So little difference? You can coast in ECO just like D but you have to keep your foot on the gas a little which keeps the 1 ball right in the middle?

wsbca said:
mkjayakumar said:
If we coast down hill in D, we get way less regeneration, and have to use the brakes more.

anytime you touch the brake pedal, some power will go to the braking system. On LEAF Spy's power profile, I get a bit of red no matter how lightly the touch on the pedal. not enough to have major concerns over but it does illustrate that a speed conducive to the traffic and enough regen available to keep the brake lights off is more efficient
 
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