The Definitive "CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT OR REAR AXLE DURING TAKE-OFF/ACCELERATION" list

[dukbilt]

Hello everyone,

for the dreaded 'clicking noise from Leaf during acceleration/deceleration' problem, look no further:

CLICKING/POPPING NOISE FROM FRONT AXLE AREA DURING TAKE OFF/ACCELERATION AND/OR DECELERATION
FA19-002, NTB19-105, dated November 22, 2019
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10168919-0001.pdf

PREVENT FRONT AXLE THREAD DAMAGE DURING NUT REMOVAL:
FA21-001, NTB21-013, dated February 26, 2021
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10188376-0001.pdf

CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT OR REAR AXLE DURING TAKE-OFF/ACCELERATION:
FA12-001J, NTB12-055J, dated March 29, 2023
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10233904-0001.pdf

For the ZE1 Leaf, parts required (per side) are:

Specialist tool Lock Nut Cape Chisel Tool J-52982 NI-52982

Molykote M77 Grease
QTY 1 Washer 40037-1CA0A (single use item)
QTY 1 Nut 40262-4GA0D (single use item)

For the ZE1 Leaf, the torque MIGHT be up to 200Nm now (was lower in earlier revisions of the manual).


For the ZE0 Leaf, check out https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Leaf/2015/fax.pdf (this specifies

Does anyone have a link to the ZE1 Service Manual?

 

[sadsk]

My truck is just in the shop for new CV Axles & Hubs. I had a clicking turning hard left which escalated to a bad clucking.The CV Axles were missing the rubber boots for two winters now.




snaptube vidmate

 

[TobyHolland]

My truck is just in the shop for new CV Axles & Hubs. I had a clicking turning hard left which escalated to a bad clucking.The CV Axles were missing the rubber boots for two winters now.

This, thankfully, is a completely different 'poor maintenance' issue, needing new CV joints and boots, not the 'poor build' issue that affects many Nissan models, which the TSB covers nicely with thick grease, new nuts & correct tightening

 

[lutefisk]

I sometimes hear the same clicking from the front of my 2015 SV - I should probably take it to the dealer. My wife's beloved '86 Honda Prelude Si had this issue and she had to get them replaced. Ugh.

 

[Markak15]

I have a question related to this. When you do this repair, there are washers on each axle. The washers have a blue rim on one side, but not the other. Which side faces out?

When I did the repair on my 2016 Leaf, one washer was facing one way, and the other was facing the opposite direction so I have no idea which way is correct. I assume based on the slight concave shape of them, that the blue side faces out but just want to be certain.

 

[dsevier]

I have a question related to this. When you do this repair, there are washers on each axle. The washers have a blue rim on one side, but not the other. Which side faces out?

When I did the repair on my 2016 Leaf, one washer was facing one way, and the other was facing the opposite direction so I have no idea which way is correct. I assume based on the slight concave shape of them, that the blue side faces out but just want to be certain.

On my 2014, both washers had the blue ring facing the axle, which I expected. This means the nut will contact the ID first and OD will contact the hub side. I think only the 2013??-2017 Leafs used the washers, which apply a preload to the hub. Interestingly, the TSB say to torque to 2013 to something like 85 ft-lbs and for other Leafs to check the Electronic Service Manual. The ESM said to torque my 2014 to 96 ft-lbs, which I did. No noise 2 weeks in but not confident it to will be permanent. Also I ordered the Molykote M77 from a Central Texas Aviation Taylor, TX on Amazon as I could actually talk to him to confirm it would be the real thing.
Here's a picture of Belleville washer orientation...

https://images.app.goo.gl/UpVcSoyjuqkC8j646

 

[Markak15]

On my 2014, both washers had the blue ring facing the axle, which I expected. This means the nut will contact the ID first and OD will contact the hub side. I think only the 2013??-2017 Leafs used the washers, which apply a preload to the hub. Interestingly, the TSB say to torque to 2013 to something like 85 ft-lbs and for other Leafs to check the Electronic Service Manual. The ESM said to torque my 2014 to 96 ft-lbs, which I did. No noise 2 weeks in but not confident it to will be permanent. Also I ordered the Molykote M77 from a Central Texas Aviation Taylor, TX on Amazon as I could actually talk to him to confirm it would be the real thing.
Here's a picture of Belleville washer orientation...

https://images.app.goo.gl/UpVcSoyjuqkC8j646

Thanks I’m gonna replace the washers and make sure the blue side is in next time I have the wheels off. I believe 96 ft-lbs is the correct torque for 2014-2017.

 

[dsevier]

The torque spec is kind of a story in itself.

The last TSB says:
IMPORTANT (for 2013 LEAF only):
 Tighten the center Lock Nut to 121 N•m (12.3 kg-m, 89 ft-lb) with a torque wrench.

I have a 2014 and the latest electronic service manual (April 2015) says the torque should be 96 ft-lbs (as you suggest). But I have looked at the hub, locking nut and washer part numbers for the 2013-2017 Leafs and they use the same parts. The left axles are also the same for these years but for some reason, there is a different right axle in some 2015 models to 2017. In other words, they should be mechanically identical. All the Leafs between 2013-2017 have a motor torque of 187 ft-lbs. I don't see why the TSM says 2013 models only. FWIW, I used the 96 ft-lb spec. But there is not a big difference between 89 ft-lbs and 96.

In any case, don't lube the axle. The torque spec is for a dry unlubricated interface. Many torque wrenches are not calibrated that accurately. Lastly, I picked up some Honda M-77 for doing some brakes and it seems very similar to the Molykote M-77 I bought for the axle job. Both are chunky and messy.

 

[revatron]

I’m having to replace the front left cv axle/driveshaft due to play in the inner cv joint. Just wondering about the grease for the splines. Is M-77 grease a must? I’ve read that you need >50% Moly but then others saying that is overkill.
I don’t want to cheap out but £25 for 80g of M-77 seems expensive *if* a good quality axle/bearing grease would also do the job.

 

[iamJames]

Hi. I'd got the clicking on my 2019 ZE1 so coughed up the extortionate cost for replacement nuts. The dealership rather helpfully provided a printout of torque settings for my vehicle registration. 110Nm for the hub nut apparently...

 

[Bombastinator2]

On some older gas cars that often meant a joint had lost its boot and was dying the death. Maybe it’s time to get the running gear looked at. Someone will put the thing on a lift, and go around and shake things making sure they wiggle or don’t as they are supposed to. Doesn’t take very long so it shouldn’t be expensive. Sometimes it’s complimentary

 

[LoveMy18Leaf]

I have the clicking noise when it’s cold, took it to the dealer, and they looked all around and found nothing obvious.

The problem with any EV is they are so quite that you literally hear everything.

So I just turn up the radio.

 

[iamJames]

Hi. I'd got the clicking on my 2019 ZE1 so coughed up the extortionate cost for replacement nuts. The dealership rather helpfully provided a printout of torque settings for my vehicle registration. 110Nm for the hub nut apparently...

I’ve done the maintenance task as described in the technical bulletin and a couple of helpful YouTube videos. I couldn’t get the Molykote77 grease locally but the motor factor sold me an equivalent. Clicking seems to have gone. Let’s see how that goes over the next few weeks.
Still surprised how low that torque setting was.

 

[goldbrick]

Isn't this a problem that the dealer is supposed to fix for free due to some recall or something? I can certainly do the work myself but if I'd rather have the dealer do it if possible. My has been clicking since new but seems to be getting just a little worse after 6 years and 35k miles.

 

[erco]

Doing this soon on my 2014. I've done lots of Googling and seen "updated" torque specs as high as 147 ft-lb for that big axle nut. Seems excessive. My Nissan dealer mechanic wouldn't say either way. Parts were darned cheap at the dealer, but $20 or 2 ounces of M-77 seems pricey.

 

[docj]

My 16000 mile 2020 SV has some clicking on the left front. The dealer took care of it on my friend's 2022 SV+ under warranty. I cannot get a straight answer from the dealer service service guy on how much it would cost me out of pocket. What will happen if I ignore it for 5000 miles or so? TY

 

[KeepTheCoalInTheHole]

2018 ZE1 Leaf here, 75k miles.

Both sides click. Tackled the right side, except I didn't use "Molykote", it is not readily available here. Instead, I used "MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE GREASE" from the local yamaha jetski dealer. There is significant improvement (both in the amount of times it does it and the volume) but it has not "gone away" as I was expecting. I've only done the right side, and both sides do it.

I'll repeat on the left when I get some time and update this thread. Getting that staked nut out without a cape chisel / unstaking tool is real pain in the ass. Many howto videos seem to gloss over the fact that this is the toughest part of the job! Everything else is very easy.

Also does anyone have in writing what the torque should actually be? I've read in the service manual that it is only 121 N•m (12.3 kg-m, 89 ft-lb) which seems quite low. But there's reports of people saying it should be ~150 N•m or even 200 N•m. I'd love some official source on this before I go tightening the hell out of this thing

Interestingly, all the TSBs posted have an excerpt that seems to apply only for the 2013 Leaf - 121 N•m (12.3 kg-m, 89 ft-lb).

 

[BillAinCT]

My 2022 SL+ started the clicking noise on the front and rear about a month ago. What exactly is clicking? Does this mean this procedure will be required every 2-3 years?

 

[KeepTheCoalInTheHole]

My feeling is it’s some sort of design fault within Nissan Leaf CV axles / hub splines.

Edit. On further reading, it appears this noise is coming from the interface where the CV axle touches the back of the bearing and not the splines.

Just be be clear - it’s the collar rather than the splines that are making the noise.

It’s something that goes back to 2005 model year cars.

I’ve owned numerous other Nissan vehicles from the 90s to now (including a Nismo 350Z and ZE0 Leaf) which never suffered from this issue.

I’ve read on it extensively and it seems it might be more easily heard in cars like the Leaf (or other hybrid vehicles) which are silent / non-vibrating on take off, so it’s much more obvious

What I know so far is some people have achieved a resolution simply by tightening the hub nut. Others have had the the nut removed, the cv axle pushed out slightly, lubed with “Molykote” on the drive shaft splines where it goes into the wheel, then the nut replaced with a new one and torqued to specs.

Others have had the drive shaft itself replaced.

 

[lorenfb]

My feeling is it’s some sort of design fault within Nissan Leaf CV axles / hub splines.

It’s something that goes back to 2005 model year cars.

I’ve owned numerous other Nissan vehicles from the 90s to now (including a Nismo 350Z and ZE0 Leaf) which never suffered from this issue.

I’ve read on it extensively and it seems it might be more easily heard in cars like the Leaf (or other hybrid vehicles) which are silent / non-vibrating on take off, so it’s much more obvious

What I know so far is some people have achieved a resolution simply by tightening the hub nut. Others have had the the nut removed, the cv axle pushed out slightly, lubed with “Molykote” on the drive shaft splines where it goes into the wheel, then the nut replaced with a new one and torqued to specs.

Others have had the drive shaft itself replaced.

It's inherent in a spline shaft design, where the torque is constantly reversed.