Part Sources for CAN Projects

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garygid

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
12,469
Location
Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA
Sources for the Parts used in our LEAF CAN Projects

Note 1. Always check stock before ordering.
Note 2: Sometimes Shipping and Handling charges can be substantial.
Note 3: Ordering in quantity for your Local LEAF Cluster or Branch might help.
-----------------

1. 7-Segment Serial Display: 4 character, 10mm high, about $13 each.
Very easy to interface via a TTL RS232 one-pin interface, plus 5v and Gnd.

Yellow - COM-09764
Blue - COM-09765
Red - COM-09766
Kelly Green - COM-09767
We are using a Red and Blue unit, but ordered all four types from this source.

2. AVR-CAN Development Board, 16 MHz by Olimex, about $55 each.
The number of in-stock units tends to vary.

Not this slower 8 MHz AVR-CAN-HB version.

Development Board for AT90CAN128 - AVR-CAN
SparkFun sku: DEV-08279
We are using boards ordered from this source.

Development Boards & Kits - AVR DEV BRD FOR AT90CAN128
Mouser Part Number: 909-AVR-CAN
We are using boards ordered from this source.

3. HI-SPEED USB TO 4 PORT SERIAL RS232 ADAPTER, about $55
EasySync USB2-H-1004
Note: USA Orders often/might ship from Portland, OR.
We are using a unit ordered from this source.

4. OBD Cables, 16-wire, 6-foot cable, right-angle male OBD connector, about $13

Note: Molded OBD connectors are probably the easiest and safest to plug into your LEAF's existing female OBD connector, located above the driver's left shin. Using a cable with exposed wires or pins that might short on something (or each other) COULD disable the car!

SAFETY: Routing the cable so that it cannot interfere, even accidently with the driver's tasks or the car's controls is VERY IMPORTANT.

OBD2cables Part number: 142601 (currently on sale)
Type B, OBD2cables PN 144507

The "Type B" means that the plastic "fin" (that divides one row of pins from the other row) has a notch in the center, at the pin 4 and pin 5 position.

5. Toggle Switches:
The SOC-Meter has an option to use one or two switches:

A. One on-off-on SPDT mini-switch for - Power On/Off/Automatic

B. One DPDT mini-switch for - EV/CAR CAN-buss Selector

6. Pushbutton Switches: momentary on, normally open, miniature, panel mount

Radio Shack 275-1547
This is a package of 4 for under $4, two with red caps, and 2 with black.
The SOC-Meter uses one Red pushbutton and one Black pushbutton.

7. Connector Blocks:

A. The SOC-Meter connects the Display to 3 of the EXT2 connector's pins.
B. The SOC-Meter connects the two Pushbuttons to 3 of the EXT2 connector's pins.

A 1x6 Connector Shell
A 2x4 Connector Shell
Wires with Female Pins

Note: These should arrive today, and I have yet to test them.
I intend to have suitable connectors and wires in the SOC-Meter Kit.

---------- (more later) ----------
 
Tools, Equipment, and Notes:

Tools:

1. Screwdriver: small Philips to fit the small screws for the box "lid".

2. Knife: a sharp Hobby knife (like eXacto) for trimming the plastic box's Display Slot and Cable-entry "U". Use with caution!

3. Wire Stripper: for very fine-gauge stranded wire.

4. Wrench: adjustable, box, or even pliers suitable to tighten the 4 nuts on the switches (will be on the outside of the box).

5. Soldering Iron: low wattage fine tip. The push-puttons (and most other components) can be damaged by applying too much heat, or heating too long, or both!

Equipment:

1. Power Supply: 7v to 9v well-regulated DC power supply to use when the AVR-CAN is not in the LEAF. I am using CAT# PS-846 from http://www.AllElectronics.com (for only $4) with an added 2-pin connector listed next.

2. Power-In Connector: a polarized connector for the AVR-CAN's Power-In header, 2 pins at 0.1" spacing. I bought a package of five white 2-pin housings (with 10 crimp-on pins) at Fry's Electronics. It is marked as "molex", and package WMLX-101 with Waldom Electronics and MolexKits.com on the package. It appears to be http://www.molexkits.com/76650-0089 but it has some different printing on the package.

3. JTAG Programmer: I just got a new USB-to-JTAG programmer to try, but I have used the AVR-Dragon (ATAVRDRAGON $49) from http://www.Atmel.com and an AVR-JTAG-ICE (clone?) from Ebay. More later.

Misc Notes:

1. The 144507 cable from http://www.OBD2cables.com is a "Type B" OBD connector, which the plastic center divider "fin" between the two rows of pins ... has a break in the center, under pins 4 and 5, the Ground pins of the OBD connector.

Since the LEAF accepts the "standard" full-fin male connectior, either of these cables would fit the LEAF's OBD socket.

2. Route and tie, if necessary, the OBD cable so that it CANNOT interfere with your feet or the pedals (or any other controls).
 
I just took a look at the OBD-II connector on the Leaf, and it appears that the 142601 cable faces inwards, towards the pedals when connected. Is that right? If so, that's kind of a bummer. It'll work OK anyway, but it's not optimal.
 
Now, I need a 17 x 2 shell for crimp-insert female pins that will plug onto the AVR-CAN's 17x2 male "EXT2" header.

I got some mini-toggle On-Off-On switches, single pole for selecting Always-on-12v, Off, or Switched-12v.

I got a double-pole version of the same thing for selecting EV-CAN buss, None, or the Car-CAN buss.

I still need some 7808 regulators.

I still need two miniature push-button switches, for user input, hopefully one with a red cap and the other in black (or, at least 2 different colors).

Helpful would be a 2-pin female connector, with 0.1" spacing for the AVR-CAN's male Power-In header.
 
lincomatic said:
I just took a look at the OBD-II connector on the Leaf, and it appears that the 142601 cable faces inwards, towards the pedals when connected. Is that right? If so, that's kind of a bummer. It'll work OK anyway, but it's not optimal.

Got my 142601 cable today. It's nice quality, and I verified that it indeed faces towards the firewall when attached. I wonder if they sell one that points the opposite direction. On the other hand, facing inwards might be better for a more permanent installation. Something to keep in mind.
 
I chose the forward-going cable on purpose so that the cable could be routed to cross over to the center console more "out-of-the-way".

Going forward and crossing over FORWARD of the feet, I found the corner of a forward-facing "ledge" that I could hook the cable over ... and maybe there even is a better way. I have not crawled under there to look.

Main CAUTION: Find a way to avoid any risk of entangling the feet (or jamming the steering wheel), even if that means looping the cable over the steering assembly, if necessary.

The OBD connector is not really "easy" to use for frequent connections, so most are likely to route the cable (safely) and then leave the SOC-Meter in place.
 
I'm planning to run the cable to the left and then under the mat to the center stack / cup holders. Not sure 6 ft is enough for that ...
 
There are some longer OBD cables, I think.
Try looking at www.obd2cables.com for others,
or perhaps find other sources if you really need the length.

I will try to avoid going under the mat in the area where the feet are (not good for the wires in the cable), and try to find a route UP, perhaps over the steering column, possibly at/near the firewall.

I wanted the right-angle, and moulded instead of the build-it-yourself. However I do have some "shells" and male pins, but I have NOT found a "cover" and strain relief for the wire-side of the connector.

I think routing the OBD cable forward, then (possibly down) toward the center console will be good, and there is cable to spare.

I am planning to have the SOC-Meter sit in the flat area forward of the cup holders (between the USB and AUX ports), with the cable entering the SOC-Meter from the driver's side end.

The rather thick OBD cables are not very flexible, and neither am I, so I have not gotten "down under" to find a good high-ground route from the OBD connector to the center console.

Please let me know what you find.
 
garygid said:
I will try to avoid going under the mat in the area where the feet are (not good for the wires in the cable), and try to find a route UP, perhaps over the steering column, possibly at/near the firewall.
I feel it is safer (and won't get in the way of driving) if the cable goes under the mat - closer to the seat. That way they won't be stomped on by feet nor come anywhere close to the brake. It would also be minimally visible. I don't think 6' is enough for this - so probably will have to find an alternate route.

I've ordered the 6'. If that is not long enough, I could potentially extend the bare end.

Yes - the best option would be to make our own cable so that it can be thin enough to be highly flexible.
 
I did not want any bare wires or exposed pins, since
shorting these wires can make the CAR not work!

There are molded 6-foot extension cables if that helps.

I have been using mine with an extension cable (since I
need to plug and unplug much more often than most users),
and the cable comes toward the driver, up and over the steering
column housing (just under the dashboard display), and
then down to the console area.
 
garygid said:
There are molded 6-foot extension cables if that helps.
Yes - thats the one I bought.

I have been using mine with an extension cable (since I
need to plug and unplug much more often than most users),
and the cable comes toward the driver, up and over the steering
column housing (just under the dashboard display), and
then down to the console area.
Do you also use cellotape to stick the wire to the plastic panel ?
 
Since I suspect that there will be many firmware updates as time progresses, what is the cheapest and easiest programmer one can buy for this? I seem to remember a nice USB unit but there was some question as to whether or not is could program this unit...

garygid said:
I have updated the 1st post Parts Sources with more of the SOC-Meter parts.
 
I got the right-angle 6' all-pin OBD extension cable and it works great.

It stays connected to the DTC, and I have it zip-tied to the underbelly of the dash, right under the plastic lip.
It curves around the center console and pops out at the passenger's feet. This way I save wear/tear on the car's socket and plug in whatever I need.

And yes, don't short the can bus or the car comes to a fast stop.
 
garygid said:
Wires with Female Pins

Note: These should arrive today, and I have yet to test them.
I intend to have suitable connectors and wires in the SOC-Meter Kit.

---------- (more later) ----------
Did you get them ? How are they - and what length did you get ?

They also have jumper wires which can be attached to individual pins.

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1706

0J1990.200.jpg
 
Gary, BTW, how are you powering the AVR ? I was going to use an old Panasonic phone adapter, which is supposed to be 9V, but shows 15V when I checked with a multimeter!
 
Power for AVR-CAN Board:

1. When powered by OBD (12v nominal but might be 14v), I generally go through a 5v (1 watt) zener diode. That external "power-in" feeds an on-board regulator to produce the well-regulated 5v that the board actually uses.

2. Sometimes a board can be powered by a USB-powered JTAG programmer, where the 5v goes directly to the board's 5v buss. However the AVR-CAN's 5v buss is powered by an on-board regulator, so this method shoud NOT be used to powet the AVR-CAN board.

3. The AVR-CAN could be powered by a 9v battery, but one must be careful to NOT lose power in the middle of flashing, or the micro-processor could become un-responsive (effectively dead). I do not have enough experience with the Atmel AT90CAN123 uP to evaluate the risk, but it usually exists.

4. Finally: I use an inexpensive ($4), all-voltage, AC-to-DC power supply (CA-590) that produces well-regulated 8.4v (600 ma) DC ... that was originally made to power a Canon camera, as I recall. I just found it for this project, and bought a couple. It seems to work well.

NOTE: The "well-regulated" symbol/icon/mark is (I THINK) a small square outline with another small square outline within the first. OR, this icon might just mean double-insulated, I an not sure.

Non-regulated (or poorly-regulated) power supplies generally produce something near the rated output voltage ONLY when loaded down enough to supply approximately the rated current. When lightly loaded (or un-loaded) they can produce a WAY higher voltage, and should generally NOT be used with computer type circuitry.

This Canon switching Power Supply is catalog part number PS-846 at
http://www.AllElectronics.com
 
garygid said:
2. When the board is powered through a USB-powered JTAG programmer, the 5v goes directly to the AVR-CAN's 5v buss, and I THINK that works OK, but I am not sure.

No - that doesn't work, at least it doesn't when I try !

The document says we need to power using either the special power pins or EXT1/2. Olimex programmer document also tells us to power the AVR separately.

Looks like a quick way to get hold of a 9V power supply for me is to get one of these from RatShack and use a 9V battery. I'll also get a variable voltage power supply.

pRS1C-2160125w345.jpg


BTW, I also tried to use an ATX 12 V power (like the one you use for IDE drives). It was a respectable 11.8V - but AVR got hot quickly.
 
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