Scaramanga
Well-known member
I ordered two pair, one for each LEAF and some waterproof grease from Tasca Parts in Rhode Island last night, $39 including shipping. Don't know if I'm going to plug the air holes yet, I might.
Eyeresearch said:Just a suggestion here but could a small, 1/8th inch weep hole take of the problem being carefully drilled on the lowest point of the "cup" area? I see them all the time on aircraft where you don't want water collecting and causing problems.
Eyeresearch said:Remember, Corrosion never sleeps.
Eyeresearch said:Gonna have to wave the yellow caution flag on the silicone grease route, remember it is specifically designed to be a long term lubricant for rubber to metal surfaces and I would be hesitant to expect it to provide reliable corrosion inhibitor qualities. I worked Corrosion Control for several years (yes, it was quite an active foe and we had a team in the hanger to go after it with vengeance) on the old amphibious rotary wing aircraft and fixed wing and silicone grease was not in our arsenal against corrosion.
It stays pretty damp where you are at in Washington for months at a time, am I correct, and moisture is the start to the chemical process in a corrosion cell.
Just did mine like estomax above.rodenti said:Thanks for the reply Marko.
I just popped off the plastic grates under the hood and saw what you described. We had a thunderstorm earlier and the two wells were full of water. No rust at this time, but the car was only built in May so I'm glad there was none.
I agree that flexidip may not be a 100% solution since water will still sit in the well... any pinhole will hide the rusting.
Instead I fashioned a plastic hood from a small sheet of clear plastic from a strawberry container, bending the edges to hold around the outside. I wanted it clear so I can check inside without having to remove it.
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