Driver Door Handle Problem

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I used the original 2-part JB Weld epoxy which has a higher strength rating, but the urethane type mentioned in the post above might be better because it might remain a bit flexible. The main thing is to mix up plenty of material so it fills all of the voids between the metal and plastic. I wiped off the excess that squeezed out after applying zip ties to secure the plastic handle. That reduced the need to sand, scrape, grind the excess material away after it cured. Make sure you leave the zip ties in place until the epoxy has fully cured.
 
Thanks for the tips. I will certainly try to get any excess off before it cures since I hate sanding, scraping, etc. I have just about every solvent possible in my garage since I get them free at the local hazardous waste facility where they 'recycle' half full containers of stuff people bring in. Best case, a simple paper towel will do the trick. I have lots of zip ties and clamps and I plan to try a dry run to see what works best before putting on the epoxy.
 
Status Update: that JB Weld suggestion is spot on. I applied it both on the top and the bottom of the lock, and then held it in place with an adjustable wrench clamping down onto a sock (to protect the finish). It has been a bunch of time since i did that, and so far, absolutely perfect. The JB Weld also worked on the hatchback grab handle.

Additionally, I have since changed how I open the door. Instead of putting my hand into a backwards "C" and pulling, I know put my hand into a "l" shape and then pull towards me. That means that I am now opening the door via the backside black part instead of tugging on the silvery top+front+bottom part.
 
+1. Mine has been totally solid for the last few months. It will be interesting to see how it handles the winter but so far, so good.
 
My driver's door handle split apart last week. The plasti-chrome outer 1/2 cover has a snap tab that inserts into the black plastic back-handle to lock those halves together. That tab broke off. I used liberal amounts of JB Weld epoxy for plastics (black, 2-part urethane) in the void near the broken tab. The leftovers in the mixing tray dried slightly flexible and can't pull it apart. See how that holds up.
 
rogersleaf said:
My driver's door handle split apart last week. The plasti-chrome outer 1/2 cover has a snap tab that inserts into the black plastic back-handle to lock those halves together. That tab broke off. I used liberal amounts of JB Weld epoxy for plastics (black, 2-part urethane) in the void near the broken tab. The leftovers in the mixing tray dried slightly flexible and can't pull it apart. See how that holds up.
The JB Weld plastic epoxy I used did not survive the last couple ice storms. Today cleaned that out and separated the handle to a much sharper angle to gain better working access. This time used liberal amounts of an elastomeric sealant as the glue, and applied it under the entire length of the handle cover for better grip area. I've used this sealant before to fix body seams on my Ridgeline. It basically cures as a rubber. It will take a few days to fully cure so have this held together with a wrap of electrical tape as a clamp. I also purchased tiny stainless steel screws that could be counter-sunk drilled into the top and bottom of the cover to act as dowel pins but stopped short of installing them. I want to see if the sealant holds before poking holes in the chrome handle cover.
 
I drilled a hole from the bottom and put in a machine screw. It's held up well over the past fall and winter. I tried JB weld several times and it eventually came loose.
 
I don't suppose anyone has a picture of the screw method. I am on my second JB weld and both popped loose again this winter. When it was apart I am not sure what the screw could screw in to to hold it?
 
AthensGA1 said:
After replacing my door handle last week on my 2015, I got a I-Key System Error. I have had no issues with the car since new. It has 14700 miles on it. They told me warranty is over because it’s from the date of being built. (Crap warranty) This is my second leaf and I love them as a second vehicle. So I went and got the OBD2 and downloaded LeafSpy and I’ll admit it’s a cool ap, what does all that mean? I downloaded the DTC’s and OMG! 23 of them. Yes I unplugged battery a total of two times in a two week period. Still the same. I bought the obd to clear out the DTC’s but then I read more and It’s not recommended. I had my 12v battery replaced about 10months ago and let me tell you, you will know when it’s bad. The whole car freaks out. I did test my 12 volt battery and it’s at 12.8 volts. I hooked charger on it walked away checked on it and charger said full. Not sure if it topped it off or if anything at all. So any advise would be great.
Thanks!
All you need to do is swap the sensor (blue connector) with old handle to the new. It's in between the two halves, remove the screw in the back to separate, then pull the wires to the center where the connector body can slide through. It’s coded to your car, annoying I know…
 
After trying the JB weld method twice, I broke down and had the dealership replace the passenger door handle. I asked for the old part and once it was out of the car, a clear fix was visible. There is a place to safely drill a small hole on the bottom of the door handle and insert a pin to permanently attach the two parts.

When the driver's door handle broke 3 weeks later, there was no way in hell I was going to pay another $300 for a part that should never have broken. This is what I ended up doing.

In the photo of the door handle innards, the hole is drilled from the right side into the space before the switch.
leaf door handle - 1.jpegleaf door handle - 2.jpeg
Steps for the repair:
1. find a small pin. It should be about 3/8" (1 cm) long. round off both ends so they are smooth. I used the shaft of an 3/16" aluminum pop-rivet. (note that the pin in one of the photo is a steel pin I decided not to use). A fancier solution would be to get a socket set screw from the hardware store so the pieces can be taken apart at some again. I like the aluminum because it won't rust.
2. drill a hole in a piece of wood to find the correct size for the drill bit. Make sure the pin fits into the hole snugly needing only very slight pressure.
3. put a piece of tape around the drill bit so the hole is only 3/8" deep. (very important)
4. prop the broken door handle open and away from the door. I used a rolled up towel and let it hang down to protect the paint below the door handle.
5. measure 5/8" from the square end of handle. and 1/4" from the inner edge of the handle and mark it with a dot (I used a sharpie). I chose to put one pin on the bottom of the handle to try to prevent water from seeping in (the photo is of the bottom of the door handle). A stronger solution would be to do it on both top and bottom, but I'll update this in a year or two if that ends up being needed. (see photo and let me know if it's not clear)

leaf door handle - 3.jpeg
6. drill a hole into the dot no deeper than 3/8" (deeper may hit the wiring for the lock button). I got mostly gray plastic on the drill bit followed by a little bit of black which shows it's on the inner piece and the pin will have something to grab. see attached photo.
7. put a little glue in the hole and on the pin.
8. push in the pin gently until it is flush with the bottom of the door handle. Wipe off extra glue and you are done.
leaf door handle - 5.jpeg

9. Smile! You are now a better engineer than the idiots at Nissan who have been building cars for 90 years and can't figure out how to make a door handle. (or guess that they built it this way to give the dealerships some extra repair work - stupid or malevolent, you choose.)

The two delicate parts of this repair are that the hole will be too small and forcing the pin in will crack the plastic, and that the hole will be drilled too far and damage the wiring. So watch out for those and then feel good that you performed a $0.20 fix instead of using a $300 part (which will break again).

Let me know if any of this is unclear and I can attach more photos or clarify what I wrote.
 

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The JB Weld epoxy fix I did a couple years ago eventually gave way, as others have said. Yesterday I used the fix @A327 described in detail but instead of using a permanent pin I taped a hole with 10-32 threads and used a stainless set screw I picked up at Ace Hardware. Seems solid so far, and it's removable if there's ever a need for that. I'll keep an eye on it to see if it starts to loosen and needs thread locker.

Attaching pictures. Thanks, @A327!

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Based on your advice, I was able to fix my drivers side handle (which was separating just like others here).

I bought a "spring pin" at Ace Hardware, and cut it to under 3/8, and then put it into place. I chose not to use any glue on this install, since a spring pin should put enough pressure on the opening to stay in place.

Thanks for giving me the pictures/descriptions/confidence to do this on my own.
I'll post again if anything goes wrong with this choice of installation.
 

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I searched, but did not find any threads related to my problem/question: The driver door handle is made in 2 pieces on the 2015 and the two pieces suddenly became loose. The outer "chrome" plastic piece moves in relation to the inner piece. Sometimes the chrome piece moves enough to jam the lock/unlock button. Has anyone else noticed anything like this? I have a little time to get it in before the 36,000-mile warranty expires so I will get it replaced, but I am curious to see if anyone else has had a similar issue.

Thanks,
Gerry
Yes, I have a 2013 SV. I'm dealing with I-key issues but I did have the driver side door handle chrome cover come loose. I bought a new one on e-bay for about $13 and replaced it. It's not too hard but you do have to take off the door panel. You need a #27 torx, 10 mm socket and a phillps screwdrive. I used plastic tools to remove the panel to avoid scratching any finishes. It didn't take care of my main problem. If it's still under warranty I would think the dealer would take care of it. There videos on this issue easy to find.

Best
 
Based on your advice, I was able to fix my drivers side handle (which was separating just like others here).

I bought a "spring pin" at Ace Hardware, and cut it to under 3/8, and then put it into place. I chose not to use any glue on this install, since a spring pin should put enough pressure on the opening to stay in place.

Thanks for giving me the pictures/descriptions/confidence to do this on my own.
I'll post again if anything goes wrong with this choice of installation.
Like others on this thread, my driver-side handle has been separating from the plastic parts, for at least 2 years now. I have considered JB Weld and a replacement handle, but I am about to spring for the drill-and-pin method. Anyone have a follow-up about the success rate of this method? How about of the pin vs set screw vs spring pin? I'm @ing a few of y'all intrepid garage engineers: @robindu @a1lawng @A327

Many thanks!
 
I replaced the handle. It wasn't too hard but you do have remove the door panel enough to get access to the connectors. There is a menu options in settings you might want to check. Intelligent key might be deactivated.
 

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