Driver side window stuck open

[LeafyOwnerNorway]

Hello.

I’m an owner of a 2013 Leaf. I use it daily to work and small errands. Yesterday when I was about to go to work, I do what I normally do. Unlock the car, open the door, get in, close the door, step on the break pedal and press the power switch. As soon as ignition is on, driverwindow opens out of the blue. I try to close it, but nothing happens! The window is stuck open.. the remaining 3 windows work fine. It’s only the driverwindow. Anyone experienced something similar? A buddy of mine thought it was the powerwindow motor, so I bought a used working one, and plugged it in. But it doesn’t work. The fuse is good. I opened the switch controller and plugged it back in, there is a red light on the controlboard. The window motor makes a tiny little click when holding down the switch for about 4-5 seconds.

Thats all the information I have.

All help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[goldbrick]

My understanding is that the windows are controlled via CANBUS signals. Ie, when you pull on the window switch, there is a controller in the switch that sends a command to the window motor (via CANBUS) to open the window.

If that's so, the behavior seen is probably either a bad switch that is continuously sending a command to open the window or the window motor is bad or its CAN controller is bad. I don't know but I'd assume the CAN circuitry for the window motor is part of the window motor assembly, unless only the motor itself was replaced and not any associated electronics. And if that's true, then the problem is probably with the window switch.

 

[Steelcity]

To test the above theory regarding bad switch, take the master switch assembly out and disconnect it and see if the window behaves the same. If so then perhaps bad/shorted wiring.

 

[goldbrick]

On further consideration I was thinking it could be broken wiring too. As in the window went down, the wiring broke and now the motor is getting no commands so the window is just stuck where it is.

 

[GerryAZ]

I had an SUV years ago that had an aftermarket alarm installed while it was on the dealer lot. I did not want the aftermarket alarm on top of the factory alarm so it was removed before purchase. I stopped to take a photo while on a trip a few years later and opened the driver door while the engine was idling. One window went down and one mirror moved. I traced it to damaged wiring between the driver door and the body. The dealer had used insulation piercing taps on the wiring to connect the alarm system so the wires were damaged. Flexing from opening/closing the door caused several wires to break. As unlikely as it seems, a +12V supply wire touched the window motor lead from the master switch and also touched one of the mirror motor leads.

Therefore, I suggest you check the wiring carefully where it flexes when the door is opened/closed.

 

[hackntheworld]

While I have not tried it myself I have read here that the windows switches are the same for the Nissan Altima.

If that's true you can probably find one at a junk yard or eBay cheap given their production levels those years.

I found this in about 30 seconds of ebay searching:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384780317613


If it powered down the motor/relay wiring is likely ok. I'd bet switches corroded and its bridging the switch to the down position. The actual switch is read by the microprocessor doing the CAN communication and only needs a few milliamps to pull the input high and trigger the window.

If not that the next thing I would suspect would be a bad window regulator.

Door wiring failures are extremely rare in my experience, outside of vehicles that have had extensive work done in the door panels due to an accident, stereo upgrades or window replacement. If your vehicles never had any of that and never been in a flood I would not suspect the door wiring.

I had a 92 Nissan Stanza I had to replace the drivers door window switches. In may case it was due to accidently leaving the window down on a night the weatherman was WRONG and it rained heavily for about 4 hours before I woke up. It would go down fine every time after that but took a bit of fidgeting to get it to go up. After a few months of dealing with that I finally replaced it with a switch from a Nissan Maxima the same year. It worked perfectly, immediately and took 5 minutes to change. It was honestly one of those "Why did I wait so long?" kind of repairs that was super simple and instantly gratifying.

 

[Stanton]

I had to replace the driver side window switch on my 2011 Leaf last year.
I ordered part #254013na0b from www.tascaparts.com. It's relatively easy to install yourself; just don't break any of the "hooks".
Good luck!