Has any one try this Grizzl-E Level 2 240V / 40A Electric Vehicle (EV) Charger ?

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How can I do this?
"- disconnect VSP module entirely (it's easily accessible from behind the glovebox)
- note this will cause the VSP-off light to illuminate on the combination meter"

The 10 seconds of video following from this timestamp shows the procedure:

 
The 10 seconds of video following from this timestamp shows the procedure:


Thanks for sharing again.
It looks very complicated, I am afraid I can't put the glove box back by myself after doing this. Probably I will use some tape to wrap around the speaker. I hope it works.
 
Most all aftermarket function from 200 to 240 to accommodate the worldwide power variation, so any aftermarket would likely work with your employers 208 supply.

Yep. So far as OEM EVSE go, the Nissan branded EVSE is the only one I know of that chokes on 208V. Between that and not being Amp adjustable and not having much of a pigtail choice, it ends up being a fair annoyance for a lot of owners.

I also own a Chevy Bolt. That forum has a lot of people who ignore the OEM 120V EVSE supplied with the car and buy the Tesla mobile EVSE instead. That approach also requires purchase of an adapter but the end result is safe and versatile. I did the same, and now that we also have a Tesla the mobile kit serves both cars.
 
Yep. So far as OEM EVSE go, the Nissan branded EVSE is the only one I know of that chokes on 208V. Between that and not being Amp adjustable and not having much of a pigtail choice, it ends up being a fair annoyance for a lot of owners.

I also own a Chevy Bolt. That forum has a lot of people who ignore the OEM 120V EVSE supplied with the car and buy the Tesla mobile EVSE instead. That approach also requires purchase of an adapter but the end result is safe and versatile. I did the same, and now that we also have a Tesla the mobile kit serves both cars.
Would you please share a link about the Tesla mobile kit you talk about? I will consider buying one too.
 
I got a good price on a used Grizzl-E and it came with the optional lock. I installed the back plate at work and another backplate at home. I can take the charger to either location and lock it in place easily. Very durable but kinda bulky and a little heavy
 
Not seeing that, they can be supplied with either a 6-50 or 14-50 according the the website, both have a ground conductor.
What model only has two prongs?

The grounded conductor is what laypeople call the 'neutral'. The third wire in a 6-50 is the equipment grounding conductor (EGC).** The Grizzl-E has 3 terminations: 2 hots, and the EGC. You can verify this is correct for the Grizzl-E (and the large majority of 240V EVSEs on market) by opening up the case and noting two colored and one green wire. In a properly wired Grizzl-E, there is no white colored wire connecting the receptacle to the Grizzl-E.

** A 6-50 receptacle has two phase conductors and an equipment grounding conductor. It does not have a grounded conductor. The terminology sucks, but I just follow the rules (and why I say EGC -- it is less likely to cause confusion). The difference between those two wires can be quite meaningful so I try to not mix up the lingo

A 14-50 receptacle terminates two phase conductors, an EGC, AND a grounded conductor. This allows the receptacle to also be used for 120V loads. When a 240V EVSE is plugged into a 14-50 receptacle, the grounded path is not used.
 
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The grounded conductor is what laypeople call the 'neutral'. The third wire in a 6-50 is the equipment grounding conductor (EGC). The Grizzl-E has 3 terminations: 2 hots, and the EGC. You can verify this is correct for the Grizzl-E (and the large majority of 240V EVSEs on market by opening up the case and noting two colored and one green wire. In a properly wired Grizzl-E, there is no white colored wire connecting the receptacle to the Grizzl-E.
Your correct that the code calls the neutral the grounded conductor. Since your talking to laypeople and the grounded/grounding thing that confuses people doesn’t really need to be brought into the conversation in my opinion but your welcome to your opinion. The point he was making is valid, “what model has only two prongs?” Regardless of the code specific phasing the third conductor he is referring to is grounded and is present on all models by this company.
 
Regardless of the code specific phasing the third conductor he is referring to is grounded and is present on all models by this company.

NO. You are confusing grounded conductors with bonding. Do yourself a big favor and call an electrician to do your electrical work.
 
Everybody I know calls it a neutral if it is in a 14-50 and can be used to carry power, Ground is either bare or green and is used for equipment grounding. Ultimately the neutral and ground end up the same as earth, but they take differing paths to get there. They are NOT interchangeable
Never heard neutral referred to as "Grounded conductor" in my life, that is a new one on me.
Ground or EGC are what I have always heard the Green or bare wire referred to as.
6-50 has ground but no neutral, 14-50 has both neutral and ground, 10-50 has no ground just two hots and a neutral.
Depending on where the neutral ground bond is in the system, they could end up at different terminal strips in the breaker box.
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NO. You are confusing grounded conductors with bonding. Do yourself a big favor and call an electrician to do your electrical work.
Wow, a little defensive huh. I don’t think this thread is about wiring anything. This was just someone asking for an opinion about an EVSE. There was a piece of misinformation saying the EVSE didn’t have a ground. It does have a ground. There is a difference between “the grounded conductor” and “a grounded” conductor and you better know the difference when your wiring stuff. I didn’t say you were wrong I just said that you’re going to confuse people and that the wire he was referring to is grounded and it is. Take your meter to the grounded and the grounding conductor and they will have continuity. They are both connected and they are both grounded even though the code calls one grounded and one grounding. They both have different purposes but if they are not both grounded then you have a problem with your system. I could call you “the man” or I could say “thou art the man” or I could just say your a man, one of these is a pop culture reference, the next is a biblical reference and the last is a simple statement. Get off your high horse and stop confusing/insulting people while trying to have a different conversation than everyone else.
 
Your correct that the code calls the neutral the grounded conductor. Since your talking to laypeople and the grounded/grounding thing that confuses people doesn’t really need to be brought into the conversation in my opinion but your welcome to your opinion. The point he was making is valid, “what model has only two prongs?” Regardless of the code specific phasing the third conductor he is referring to is grounded and is present on all models by this company.
SageBrush, did you notice that I said you’re correct about the code? Did you also notice that cornbinder89 understands the subject but is still confused by the wording of the code? Did you notice that I was very careful to call it a grounded conductor not the grounded conductor. If your goal is communication not talking down to people or confusing them then you would have worded your reply differently. The car only uses the Neutral when it does a trickle charge and the Grizzl-E doesn’t do that so it doesn’t use the neutral it uses two legs of power and a grounding conductor for safety. I only see two plug options on the website and both of them use 2 power’s and a ground. Do you think that ground is grounded?
 
I'll repeat what I said earlier: The Grizzl-E does not have a grounded conductor. It has terminals for two phase conductors ("hots") and one EGC.

@Mcflocki, I don't care if you feel 'talked down to' or not. You try to act like you know how to wire, but your advice and understanding is wrong, violates NEC, and can lead to life threatening conditions. Stop.
 
@cornbinder89 ,

I find the 'grounded conductor' lingo understandable if I think of a split phase transformer -- the type that feeds most US homes. It is one winding of 240V, with a center tap. Three wires leave the winding and supply the home: one from the top of the coil, one from the center tap, and one from the bottom of the coil. The center tap also has a wire to earth. The fact that the center tap also has a wire to earth is the reason the center tapped current carrying conductor is called the grounded conductor.

For completeness sake (though I think this is well known to you), the EGC is used for bonding the metal equipment. In the case of a ground fault, the fault current flows through the grounding conductors until the first disconnect, and then crosses the MBJ and returns to the transformer via the center tap. The important detail here is that a correctly wired ground fault current does not go to Earth. This is done deliberately to avoid the Earth's relatively high impedance which can prevent clearing the fault (aka tripping a breaker.)

Someone might ask, if the current is not traveling via Earth, why is it called a 'ground fault' ? The idea is that a person who touches an energized metal equipment becomes the conductor to ground. In that case the path is metal->person->earth->center tap. This is extremely dangerous because the breaker may not trip.
 
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There is certainly a difference between a neutral (white or grey wire in the US) and a ground (green or bare wire in the US). And the difference is.....the neutral is a 'grounded conductor' meaning it is intended to carry current when the circuit is energized. It is a conductor and it is connected to ground. Thus it is a 'grounded conductor'.

The EGC only carries current if there is a ground fault. Otherwise there is no current in it.

That is all pretty simple in 120V circuits since they require both a + (hot) and - (ground) connection to make a circuit. In the US with the split-phase 120V/240V supplies, it gets more complicated since 240V only appliances don't require a neutral. Hence 3-prong plugs like those used for dryers. Once you have an appliance that uses both 120V and 240V you need a neutral so you end up with 4-prongs (L1, L2, N and EGC). Most EVSE's don't need 120V so the N connection is often not present even if it uses a 4-prong plug.
 
I am not an electrician and make no claim to be. I am not here to argue terms, and what I was taught in my lifetime, the terms may be different.
I hold an aircraft mechanics lic, and have worked in and around all kinds of equipment and that includes generators.
May be "Neutral" is not called that in the NEC, but most everybody will know to what I am referring. Just as many refer to "buttons" on the dash of an air braked vehicle the tractor protection valve, which is incorrect, I can usually figure out what the are talking about or at least know to ask clarifying questions.
The most difficult thing for the layman to understand, is the correct layout of the bonding point of the ECG and the "neutral". This is esp true when installing a generator and transfer switch.
The center tap on the pole transformer is not ground but is connected to ground. As can be one corner of a Delta three phase (corner grounded Delta).
Whether it is an older term, or a layman's term, "Neutral" is well understood by most.
I will defer to you on what the NEC calls that concept, but the important take a way is the purpose and correct wiring of the the green and white, not so much the terms used.
Ok, I'm done with the terms
 
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