How Old is YOUR 12 volt Battery?

[Nubo]

Here's a page from a Yuasa battery guide that explains about when the sulfation occurs. The guide is geared toward smaller batteries such as motorcycles and ATV, but the guide information applies to all lead acid and can be downloaded.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/4...matic-12v-1-5-Amp-5-Stage.html?page=15#manual

An interesting paragraph from the guide, emphasis mine:

"There's a simple rule of thumb about batteries, and if you're a dealer or a mechanic, you know that people ignore it all the time: for a battery to operate the way it's supposed to, it has to be fully charged before it's used...and kept fully charged throughout its life."

That is the secret to getting extended life out of the aux battery.

I think this requires some clarification. I'm going to modify this (bold) statement. "...kept in a properly operating charge/discharge environment..." On ICE engines, the voltage regulator doesn't ever charge the 12V to capacity, usually stopping at 80-90%, to avoid overchargin. . I assume the same for hybrids/electrics. IIRC, 12V, like our HV batteries, function best between 20-80%. Constant charge/discharge outside of this range isn't healthy.

Hopefully someone more expert will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

(I'm really NOT shouting, for some reason, I can't un-bold my post!!!)

Fixed.

 

[GaleHawkins]

When I got our 2016 two months ago I pulled off the 12 volt OEM battery and was going to replace it for the heck of it. The electrolyte level was within normal limits and still looks new like. It just came off of a 3 year lease so I expect the water level was checked every 30 days or less.

The starting battery from Japan on the new 1973 Nissan lasted for 10 years dealing with engine heat.

I put the OEM back on the 2016 and since I drive it daily with the 400 volt battery as it battery tender I expect 10 years of life.

I replace lead acid batteries if they get low on electrolyte and show any level of corrosion because they are failing or the charger system is over charging them. If I replace it I may go with the Rogue size battery since it will fit the base and I will just get a new tie down bracket. It may just be more weight with no functional gain if I never use the 12 volt battery to power an inverter for 120 volts AC.

 

[WetEV]

Here's a page from a Yuasa battery guide that explains about when the sulfation occurs. The guide is geared toward smaller batteries such as motorcycles and ATV, but the guide information applies to all lead acid and can be downloaded.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/4...matic-12v-1-5-Amp-5-Stage.html?page=15#manual

An interesting paragraph from the guide, emphasis mine:

"There's a simple rule of thumb about batteries, and if you're a dealer or a mechanic, you know that people ignore it all the time: for a battery to operate the way it's supposed to, it has to be fully charged before it's used...and kept fully charged throughout its life[/b]."

That is the secret to getting extended life out of the aux battery.

I think this requires some clarification. I'm going to modify this (bold) statement. "...kept in a properly operating charge/discharge environment..." On ICE engines, the voltage regulator doesn't ever charge the 12V to capacity, usually stopping at 80-90%, to avoid overchargin. . I assume the same for hybrids/electrics. IIRC, 12V, like our HV batteries, function best between 20-80%. Constant charge/discharge outside of this range isn't healthy.

Hopefully someone more expert will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

(I'm really NOT shouting, for some reason, I can't un-bold my post!!!)

The 12 volt battery in any car is a Lead Acid battery, which for the longest life needs to be charged to 100%.

The 20-80% rule is ONLY for the Leaf's large battery because it actually lasts the longest at 50%.

If you kept the 12 v battery at 50%, you would need a new batter VERY FREQUENTLY.

Bolding not bolding.

The bolding markups [ b ] and [ / b ] were not matched. So I added a [ / b ]

 

[LeftieBiker]

The 20-80% rule is ONLY for the Leaf's large battery because it actually lasts the longest at 50%.

If you kept the 12 v battery at 50%, you would need a new batter VERY FREQUENTLY.

This bears repeating. Lead-acid batteries of ANY type do best at (but not above) 100% charge. There is no advantage in charging them to 80%, and it will do damage quickly if kept below 80%. I suspect that someone is confusing NiMH batteries, which do best between 20% and 80%, with lead-acid. Those are used in the high voltage traction battery in the regular Prius, and they do well there because they are regulated to stay between 20% and 80%.

 

[Nubo]

...It just came off of a 3 year lease so I expect the water level was checked every 30 days or less. ...

I'm curious; how did you draw that conclusion?

 

[GaleHawkins]

...It just came off of a 3 year lease so I expect the water level was checked every 30 days or less. ...

I'm curious; how did you draw that conclusion?

I mean how much attention does most leased cars get. 12 volt batteries do not loose electrolyte normally so I expect it was never checked. Clearly we know it was not checked often if ever. Since the battery compartment is new looking I just cleaned out the dust and reinstalled it.

 

[baumgrenze]

In reply to the original post, we took delivery of our 2012 SL on 7 Dec 2011. I've never messed with the 12V battery in the ensuing 8 years. The electrolyte level is down by ~1/4 of the way between the MAX and MIN levels.
The car has 34,008 miles on it.
Our major maintenance expense have been two replacement tires due to wall rupture from road hazards. I also finally gave up and paid a junk yard for a compatible Altima spare tire and wheel. It is kept in the garage since we rarely drive far from home and could always get a ride to go there and pick it up and, at this point in life, have CSAA come and mount it so I could drive to the tire store for a replacement should it happen again.
You may have seen my recent post on the 'bar loss count' thread as well. With the help of the active members there, I understand that it is down by 1 bar which is better than most for a car of this vintage.

baumgrenze

 

[cwerdna]

Mine's about a month old, bought from Costco.

Replacement saga at https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=572068#p572068.

Previous battery was an "84 month" Nissan-branded battery installed by a local dealer for free under warranty in ~Oct 2015. The one that came in my used '13 5/2013 Leaf bit the dust back in ~Oct 2015. Unknown if the 12 volt had been changed before that.

 

[LeftieBiker]

The Japanese 12 volt batteries in the early Japan-built Leafs was much better than the later North American batteries, but at 8 years old I strongly suggest a new one. AGM type batteries work best, but since you're selling the car any good type 51R battery is ok.

 

[cwerdna]

The Japanese 12 volt batteries in the early Japan-built Leafs was much better than the later North American batteries, but at 8 years old I strongly suggest a new one.

Yeah, it sure seems like it.

Also, those with '11 to '17 Leaf SL's with the solar panel who park outside in the sun AND live in a rainy area probably have it best due to the car boosting the "12 volt" bus voltage to 14.x volts each time the wipers are activated and it leaves the voltage elevated for awhile. I've observed that on my '13 and I know it's not limited to '13 Leafs.

 

[downeykp]

My 2011 12 volt is still going strong. Spends almost 3 months every year on a float charge. Never had a problem.

 

[MikeinPA]

My white 2013 Leaf 12 volt is still the original and still seeing almost daily service.

However, the blue 2013 Leaf 12 volt just died--this was a Nissan brand installed in 2018.

I am looking for the largest AGM that will fit the space. I already have the Nissan 24428-56L00 tray and the hold down for converting the leaf to a larger battery. Any size recommendations? TIA.

 

[MikeinPA]

Also, thanks to all the posts out there on how to patiently clear out all the DTCs, and a huge thanks to Leaf Spy. Very scary seeing all those dashboard lights!

 

[goldbrick]

I am looking for the largest AGM that will fit the space. I already have the Nissan 24428-56L00 tray and the hold down for converting the leaf to a larger battery. Any size recommendations? TIA.

I put an Optima yellow top 35 or 35R? in my 2017 Leaf. It fits the tray easily but the original hold-down bar doesn't fit so I used a 'universal' one that works fine although it does not look as nice.

 

[MikeinPA]

The 51r stock size Yellowtop battery is:
Brand Optima
Size 9-5/16 x 5-1/16 x 8-15/16 inch
Voltage 12 Volts
Battery Cell Composition Lead Acid
Item Weight 26 Pounds
Item Dimensions LxWxH 9.21 x 4.98 x 8.94 inches

And the d35 Yellowtop battery is:
Size 9-5/16 x 6-13/16 x 7-5/8 inch
Voltage 12 Volts
Battery Cell Composition Lead Acid
Item Weight 36.4 Pounds
Item Dimensions LxWxH 9.38 x 6.75 x 7.69 inches

Same price, but the d35 is ~ 30% more capacity. I will see if I can find one locally. I have a larger plastic tray and hold down from Nissan already. Thanks, Goldbrick!