HOW TO: Make the VSP (noisemaker) button default to off

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I thought the first of the thread was the banter of figuring out what would work. You mentioned a Tr 7, and that eventually ended up being replaced by another type of processor I think. Its just my take on the thread that later, after turbo, you , and nate went through the paces, that there might be a link to where you can buy the parts etc. If the first of the thread is where I go to order parts, I will give it a try, and again thanks a million for figuring this all out. I certainly couldnt have done this. !!
 
Ah. Originally it was banter, but I went back and updated it with the final steps. There should be links there to the parts and other posts with pictures. Take another look. I'll think about how to make it more clear.
 
Saw the links to a PAC TR 7 on amazon. Is that the Trigger module we use then ? It looks like fun to do, and Im certainly capable of soldering. I saw the schematic Turbo had on there and was confused.........Looks like I need a .1uF Capacitor, and another IC2 it said on the schematic. OR.....is all this ursurped by the TR 7 Trigger Module. Im confused !! ( EZ to be in my case ) LOL !!!!
 
Yeah, the TR-7 is the final solution. Originally turbo had made a custom board, which is what the diagrams were for. Then nater pointed out the an old the shelf trigger module like the TR-7 should work. So I put 2 + 2 together and came up with 4. Viola!
 
Yah !! I saw you posted the results. Thanks ! Another duh question from a non elecctronniCK. .... Are the instructions adequate enough to wire JUST the TR 7, or is there a schematic for the TR 7 I missed in here.
 
gkalexdc said:
Another duh question from a non elecctronniCK. .... Are the instructions adequate enough to wire JUST the TR 7, or is there a schematic for the TR 7 I missed in here.
A second assurance here - I'm not very car or electrical savvy, and the instructions were great for me -- absolutely no problems doing the install. The only thing not listed in the initial instructions is some discussion about using a different mode on the TR7 to change the timing. I ended up using the TR7 manual and going with the timing that I believe turbo2ltr used in his original custom mod. But you don't need to do that to make it work :)
 
You really don't need to go through the hassle of trying to program 2 seconds instead of the default 5 (as you said). It will be turned off before you're ready to go, I guarantee it. :)
 
GeekEV said:
You really don't need to go through the hassle of trying to program 2 seconds instead of the default 5 (as you said). It will be turned off before you're ready to go, I guarantee it. :)

No way! :) Even at 2 seconds, just this morning I heard the VSP for a second coming out of the garage. I heard one "bing" yesterday backing up as well before it turned off.

Then again, just about every time I get into the car I have to put it in D or R twice because the first time it goes to N because it's not ready.
 
Ok, so I just now paid careful attention. It looks like (with the 5 second delay) the VSP light turns off two seconds after the ready light comes on. I retract my guarantee, I guess is IS possible for you to pull out before it goes off. You guys must be Speedy Gonzales when you get in to the car! :lol:
 
I heard the Fisker Karma VSP sound as it rolled by my leaf at the Santa Monica National Plug in Day parade in the staging area. Yeah just the sound made me jealous.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MF_hOR0cXS8&feature=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
HELP !!! I am trying this SAT to do the mod to the VSP. I hooked VSP Pin 1 (black) to TR 7 (black)
I hooked VSP Pin 13(blue) to TR 7 (red)
That was EZ. THE problem is, I DONT have 12 v on the RED and black. Any suggestions before I abort.
I have tried with the car ON as well as Off. No 12 V. :(
 
That's strange. You should. Perhaps the wiring colors are different on yours, did you double check the pin positions? If they're right, how did you splice them and how are you checking for voltage? Using those taps I used it can be hard to make contact with the metal bit after you've crimped them in. Without being there it's hard to troubleshoot.
 
Thnx for responding !! The Positions are correct. pin 1 black. Pin 13 blue. On the VSP. Ive dbl dbl cked this.
I disconnected the VSP , isolated the wire, cut the black and blue, and soldered the appropriate wires . Should I have 12 volts with out the car on ? SHould I have 12 v without or with the VSP disconnected. I DO NOT have 12v on any combination . I am checking with a multi meter. I checked for 12v, with the Pin 1 Black, and Pin 3, and I only get a voltage on PIN 1 and 3 (11.52 volts). All other pins show zero. Hmmm.
I have a pic on my iphone of my wiring as per your orig post. I can e mail it if you want to . Let me know how. Thanks !!
 
Yes, you definitely should. Is there enough exposed wire on the original harness for you to check there? Perhaps your solder joints are bad? Another, possibly dumb question, is did you disconnect the battery before starting by chance? If so, that would be your problem right there. :)

I don't think a picture would help figure it out. I'd start by testing on the actual wires coming from the car (before the splice) and see if you have 12v there. If you do, then something must be wrong with your splices. If not, then I'm sorry but I don't have any idea why not... :(
 
I just edited my post. see if I explained it better. Pin 1 and 3 show power (11.52v) I am reading the power on the splice.
 
There evidently is function of the VSP, because when all is connected, even with the two TR 7 power wires hooked up, it functions when you turn on the car. .........so the fuse is probably not the issue here. I wish I knew how to post an image on here for everyone to look at. I have the image saved, but do not know how to post an image on here using this IMG thing. !! So far, I probably am the village idiot. My directions following is exact on, but know I am thinking that there IS a difference in cars. I have 5000 miles on my LEAF. EVgeek has 10,000. So, who knows...maybe there was a change in the harness. I will abort my attempt to disable my VSP, unless maybe one of the many genius's here can come up with a suggestion.
 
gkalexdc said:
There evidently is function of the VSP, because when all is connected, even with the two TR 7 power wires hooked up, it functions when you turn on the car. .........so the fuse is probably not the issue here. I wish I knew how to post an image on here for everyone to look at. I have the image saved, but do not know how to post an image on here using this IMG thing. !! So far, I probably am the village idiot. My directions following is exact on, but know I am thinking that there IS a difference in cars. I have 5000 miles on my LEAF. EVgeek has 10,000. So, who knows...maybe there was a change in the harness. I will abort my attempt to disable my VSP, unless maybe one of the many genius's here can come up with a suggestion.


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