I'm a 3.7 miles/kWh flunkee

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prisonfood said:
Are there others keeping quite on this board for whom 3.7 miles/kWh is average, or am I really a flunkee?

On spelling perhaps, but your efficiency seems about average for those of us who drive the LEAF nearly the same as we would drive an ICE.

I'm retired, so there is no commute. Most of my driving is short trips on a 55 mph highway: one mile to Home Depot or my bank, two miles to the supermarket, four miles to Walmart or my favorite produce stand. I average around 3.5 m/kwh. I usually recharge to 80% about once every three days. I have had the car for three months and have never encountered a low battery warning. Range anxiety is a non-issue for me, so why would I want to baby the car?
 
I mostly use my Leaf for a 20 mile commute that is mostly freeways. My number is 3.8 or 3.9. I do not speed but I also do not become a slow moving obstacle in the slow lane pissing off the other drivers.
 
I do not speed but I also do not become a slow moving obstacle in the slow lane pissing off the other drivers.

Thanks for staying out of my way! http://www.mynissanleaf.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=31&t=8793#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Seriously, though, whenever I try to drive at a 4.5 miles/kWh speed, a big part of the challenge is to not to piss off my fellow drivers. Also, when I first got my Leaf, I had a bit of a Napoleon complex in that I felt the need to prove to other motorists that the car can really move fast despite running on sparks. I've pretty much gotten over it, realizing that it's okay to enjoy the radio in the calm, quiet cabin at 60 mph as others float by. But every once in a while I still can't help but chase down the jerk in the Suburban who cut me off.
 
mkjayakumar said:
The folks who get less than 4, are you all driving in 'D' or 'ECO' mode ?

D.

ECO is a pain, feels like car is in molasses. I'll use it if the kids are cheering me on to finish a tree before we get home but since I don't need to use it, why would I?
 
drive more slowly. maintain lower overall speeds. never go over 65 on the highway unless safety dictates. cruise between 60 and 65 there.
dont rush stop lights.

that is all you really have to do. ECO is best, but D has its advantages in better coasting.

i get over 4kWh.
today, i deliberately tried to conserve as i didnt charge at night at home and want to try a full charge on the blinks at work.
I had 5.1 for 25-mile commute with 20 of it on freeways. i used the AC for most of the trip, but it is not a hot, sunny day yet.
 
I'm at about 3.9 average since we got the Leaf a few months back. Lately we've been getting about 4.1. The sad thing is that even if I try my best, I'm no where near what I see others doing. The best I've gotten was 4.8. However, we do have alot of hills here. There's one section of highway near my house with a very steep incline for a couple of miles and I can lose up to 30 miles on the GOM by the time I get to the top of that.
 
3.6 average here. My commute is under 30 miles so there's no range issues for my normal usage even at 80% charge. I can avoid a good part of the freeway and get 3 commutes on one charge but by and large I do take the freeway. Also my wife uses the car when I bike commute. :)

I do drive in ECO mode almost exclusively. I prefer the more controllable throttle response and higher regen. If I really want the power I know where to find it. ;)
 
It's refreshing to see so many owners saying they drive the Leaf like it's, well, a car rather than a high-school science project, which is the impression you get if you read all the threads about 100miles+, hypermiling, etc. That's exactly what we need for the car to jump to the mainstream - drive on the freeway with the flow of traffic, use heat or A/C without a thought, no bizarre and sometimes unsafe driving practices (I'm talking to you, drafting that semi!).
 
OK, if everyone is averaging around 4 miles/kWh, doesn't that put real mileage at 80+?
 
Actually, it seems like people that drive "normally" are getting around 3.7-3.8 which comes to a range of about 74 miles which is pretty darn close to the EPA estimate. What do you know!
 
My lifetime average average is 4.7 m/kWh. It is 15 miles into town with several hills (we live in the mountains of AZ during summer). We also drive the car in Phoenix for 1/2 the year (we have a car trailer). I nearly always drive in ECO. If I need full power I still can get it in ECO, I just need to "floor" the accelerator. The advantage to ECO is that you get more regeneration than you do in drive.

To maximize the "regen", I anticipate traffic lights. I look for the crosswalk signs that in our area often show the amount of time that pedestrians have to cross the side street. I then can better judge when the light will turn to yellow. If it is getting close I may speed up a little. I believe that a little extra use of electricity is probably better than having to stop and restart because even "regen" is not 100% efficient. Usually at the end of any stopping experience, I am using the actual binders.

Another trait is when I see that I will have to stop, I start slowing down and try to make sure that I stop just before the light turns green or before. This is because I don't want to irritate drivers behind me who like to rush up to the light and jam on the brakes. This way they aren't impeded anymore than they would if they were controlling the stopping. I look at the "regen" dots and lightly start applying the brakes. As I come to a stop I apply slightly more pressure to keep the maximum "regen" dots that I can before the actual binders come on. I've gotten so that I think I can actually detect when the actual brakes come on.

Another trait that I do is when I pull out into traffic from a feeder road or a driveway. In some situations if I can see traffic is coming, I will let it pass so I don't have to pull out and accelerate quickly. When oncoming traffic is clear I can pull out and accelerate more gradually. In some highway instances when the speed limit is 65mph and I pull out when it is clear, I'll remain at 55 mph until I see some traffic coming up on me. Then, I will speed up to the speed limit so as not to give EVs a bad name.

Another thing I do is to use the cruise control in many situations to ensure that my speed does not creep up. For example, if the speed limit is 35 mph, I will set my cruise control at 38 mph. Many times traffic will speed at least 10 miles over the speed limit. My thought is that if I am going the speed limit or slightly over, then a speeder is in the wrong, not I. Also, this allows me to speed up a little, as mentioned before, without tripping any speeding cameras.

I rarely use the heater. I do use the A/C when necessary because the A/C only uses about 500W once the cabin is cool but the heater uses more like 3,000W. However, most of my temperature control is through cracking a window or just letting outside air in with use of the fan. When I park I pay attention to sun angle and if the day is hot I use a reflective windshield screen with the windows down and inch or two. We intentionally did not get any extra window tinting. This way in the winter we can get more thermal heating in winter and in the summer we can control the temperature by using windshield shades and looking for shade or at least parking the car in an orientation that minimizes the amount of sun entering the car.

Another trait is to use surface streets on some occasions rather than the freeways. This of course cannot apply to all who use the car for commuting, but the point is to plan your route to balance the speeds on the freeways with the stop and go of the surface streets. The reason is that the amount of energy required to propel the car increases exponentially with the speed. Thus, if takes four times the energy for the car to go twice as fast. For example, if we compare 60 mph versus 70 mph, take the square of 70 mph (4,900) and divide it by the square of 60 mph (3,600). The result is 1.36, or it takes over 1/3 more energy just to go an additional 10 mph.

What I've tried to do with these traits is to maximize my m/kWh while at the same time not aggravating other drivers and giving EVs a bad name. It seems to work, but of course all of these things may not work for you depending on your location. Try some of these and see what the difference is in your travel time. I have found that it costs me very little in extra time.
 
Those are all great tips and learning to do them well can be essential if you are in a situation where you need to extend range.

But, my question to you would be why do you bother doing this on a consistent basis. Almost everything you describe requires lots of attention, planning, forethought and patience (and in the case of not using climate control, lack of comfort). I could not relax while driving that way. Too much thinking and planning all the time.

I see a lot of people saying that they do all these things to get a high m/kWh when they don't sound like they really need to. Just trying to understand why. The only reason I ever really see specified is to get a high number (or in some cases extend range due to a large commute, which does make sense). It do it from time to time just so see how high I can get the number under different situations, but I would never drive that way day to day.

I would like people to feel like they can buy electric cars without having to learn how to drive differently. Reading the forums here, makes it almost sound like you HAVE to drive using all these energy conservation tips which is not the case.

So, if you are someone that is always trying to get a high m/kWh. Why?
 
Cheezmo said:
So, if you are someone that is always trying to get a high m/kWh. Why?
The less energy I use, the less GHG emissions I produce. Driving a bit slower and more carefully is a very easy way to do this, and doesn't decrease the quality of my life. Besides, I find it fun and relaxing.
 
By switching to an electric car you are already saving 99% of the GHG compared to others (yes, I made that number up) so obsessing over trying to make that 99.1% seems kind of past the law of diminishing returns.

I definitely understand the "video game"-like fun of it, though which is why I play with it from time to time (but not with passengers and around traffic that I would be annoying).
 
prisonfood said:
I see that folks on this bulletin board are routinely getting above 5 miles per kWh. I pretty consistently get around 3.5 - 3.8 kWh driving around the San Francisco Bay Area. Granted:
[...]
- I have to drive home to the Oakland hills every night (elevation = 1100 ft)
Are there others keeping quite on this board for whom 3.7 miles/kWh is average, or am I really a flunkee?

Kevin
AP1 said:
You're not alone. I get about the same miles/kwh as you. I also live 1,000 ft up in the hills in the Bay Area, [...]
coqui said:
The people on here getting over 5 are probably Houston residents where the highest thing around is an overpass on loop 610...living in quite level cities, generally.
Stoaty said:
Maybe some, but not all. My daily commute in Los Angeles involves about 1300 feet of elevation gain (and loss, of course--I have to get back home). Lifetime average 5.7 on the dash.
My anecdotal observation is that steep grades drastically reduce energy economy. By "steep" I don't mean just "XXX thousands feet gain" but also "grades of more than a couple percents". If I can draw 10-20 kWh going up a grade and maintain my speed or not slow to more than 10 mph versus prevailing speeds, then it's not that steep a grade. I recently started a new job that is 1.1 miles from my house :) . The distance includes a 2500 feet stretch that is at 12% grade and a 1600 feet stretch that's 6% grade, so the commute is mostly uphill/downhill. I walk to work three times a week. When I drive, I tend to get in the low-2s miles/kWh.

By comparison, my overall average so far is 3.8 mi/kWh over 8300 miles.
 
gergg said:
OK, if everyone is averaging around 4 miles/kWh, doesn't that put real mileage at 80+?
One would think so, but my observation (and others') has been that only about 21.x kWh is available, which puts the range right around 80 miles at 4 mi/kWh.
 
So, if you are someone that is always trying to get a high m/kWh. Why?


I have a photo voltaic system that powers my all electric house and my Leaf. I drive the way I do with a 5.8 m/kwh long term average to keep my electric bill to zero. If I drive 'normally' I get a small bill, and though it is small it is very gratifying to use zero net electricity in a month. Two other points I would note: Driving this way became habitual and is not work for me, nor does it require my attention. Secondly I find I am a calmer driver. Catching lights or getting cut off just doesn't push my buttons anymore. (Or maybe it is my daily yoga.) :)
 
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