Nissan Leaf 2018 ZE1 service ev system no power in red

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oddmar

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2020
Messages
17
Hi

I have a Leaf 2018 ZE1.

Recently, i parked the car to go to work, on a monday i think. I must have not switched it off completely, because when i got back to the car on friday, it was showing this error in red "service ev system no power"

I got help from a friend, and towed it to a charge point and tried plugging it in. The car wouldn't start charging and the charge point said there was a communication error.
I then towed the car home and tried charging the 12 volt battery for about 12 hours.
Plugged in the small charger (800w) that came with the car. It would still not charge.

Borrowed a professional tester from a co-worker who is a car mechanic, tested the system and got a lot of error codes.

Code:
ABS ( 1 DTC )
C118C:86 	EV/HEV system Current

ICC/ADAS ( 3 DTCs )
C1A2B:00 	Electrical brake mode fault 
C1B5B:00 	VCM circuit Current
C1B00:00 	Camera unit malf 

Multi AV ( 1 DTC )
U1000 		CAN communication circuit 

Motor control ( 1 DTC )
U1000:01 	CAN communication circuit 

EV/HEV ( 4 DTCs )
DTC 		Description 				
P3193:87 	Communication error 		
U1000:01 	CAN COMM circuit 			
P3182:97 	High voltage battery system 
P3180:97 	High voltage battery system 

Brake ( 2 DTCs )
C1A6E 		Electric vehicle/hybrid electric vehicle system
C1A70 		Brake control system

Tried clearing the codes, but they reappeared.

I bought a new 12 volt battery, fully charged, same deal. Not charging.

The car is no longer under warranty, so i want to try all options before i go to the nissan service center.

If you can provide any help, i would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.
 
1. Make sure the new 12V battery is fully charged and not defective (have it load tested to confirm it is OK and then charge it fully).
2. Clear diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) with LEAF Spy Pro and suitable Bluetooth OBDII interface (generic code reader/scanner devices usually do not work with LEAF).
3. Disconnect 12V battery and connect a load such as a 12V light bulb between the positive and negative cables for a minute or two. This will discharge power supplies in control modules to help reset the control modules.
4. Connect 12V battery.
5. Clear DTC's with LEAF Spy Pro.
6. If DTC's do not clear and car will not go into run mode, then repeat steps 3 through 5 at least twice more before giving up.
 
To be clear, you think you left the car "on/ready" for 5 full days? Inside/outside? Weather conditions (extreme heat, etc.)?
I think that picture of your dash says it all; time for a trip to the dealer (or someone with the tools necessary to work on a Nissan Leaf).
 
Stanton said:
To be clear, you think you left the car "on/ready" for 5 full days? Inside/outside? Weather conditions (extreme heat, etc.)?
I think that picture of your dash says it all; time for a trip to the dealer (or someone with the tools necessary to work on a Nissan Leaf).

Well, it must have been on/ready. HV battery was almost full and now it's not showing anything.
Weather has been about 15-20 degrees.
 
The car must be on for LEAF Spy to communicate with the modules and clear the codes. You need to clear codes from each module one at a time. I could not see the dash photo earlier, but now it looks like the traction battery is completely dead.
 
If the car is in ready to go mode. Will it not protect the battery from damaging it selfe?
 
The car has a "hibernate" mode for frigid weather, but I think that the decision was made to allow it to drain the battery to immobility in order to extract maximum range in an emergency. The problem is, I think, that the expectation was that it would be recharged immediately afterward in that situation. Instead, it sat for hours or even days with a critically low battery, and that may have caused irreparable damage...
 
oddmar said:
Stanton said:
To be clear, you think you left the car "on/ready" for 5 full days? Inside/outside? Weather conditions (extreme heat, etc.)?
I think that picture of your dash says it all; time for a trip to the dealer (or someone with the tools necessary to work on a Nissan Leaf).

Well, it must have been on/ready. HV battery was almost full and now it's not showing anything.
Weather has been about 15-20 degrees.
To summarize, you "cold soaked" a depleted Lithium battery. You must be awfully far North (in the summer) for those temps, so I'm not sure the battery (any Lithium-based battery) would accept a charge without being warmed up somehow. Not trying to be sarcastic, but this should be a lesson for other EV owners; at least have a way to monitor/check your car (like EVConnect or OVMS) in extreme conditions.
 
Stanton said:
oddmar said:
Stanton said:
To be clear, you think you left the car "on/ready" for 5 full days? Inside/outside? Weather conditions (extreme heat, etc.)?
I think that picture of your dash says it all; time for a trip to the dealer (or someone with the tools necessary to work on a Nissan Leaf).

Well, it must have been on/ready. HV battery was almost full and now it's not showing anything.
Weather has been about 15-20 degrees.
To summarize, you "cold soaked" a depleted Lithium battery. You must be awfully far North (in the summer) for those temps, so I'm not sure the battery (any Lithium-based battery) would accept a charge without being warmed up somehow. Not trying to be sarcastic, but this should be a lesson for other EV owners; at least have a way to monitor/check your car (like EVConnect or OVMS) in extreme conditions.

We use celcius 😅
 
Looks like HV battery is completely drained. I would try the following

-Clear the codes with Leafspy Pro
-Right after clearing, plug in the charger and see if it starts to charge

If it doesn't start, one of the cells might be so low that the BMS is in some protection mode. Post another screenshot from the battery voltage page, and let's hope no cells are under 2.9V!
 
Car is draining 630 mA in off mode.
12 volt Battery is measuring 13.4 volts disconnected. 12.4 connected.

I have a 7 amp ctech charger connected to boost the voltage when clearing dtc codes.
 
Sorry to be unclear. I was curious what the voltage on the connectors from the DC-DC converter is. If the 12V is disconnected and there is still voltage on the cables (after a while!) then it means that the HV is supplying the DC-DC converter. The Li-ion is not empty, but the HV would be active!!! The software needs to be reset, which does not work by disconnecting the 12V as it is NOT the only power source as the DC-DC keeps the software live. I had the problem and kept charging and plugging things in until it randomly got back on the rails. I do not know how to properly reset and nobody else wants to even consider it to be a software issue so that is also a dead end.

P.S. You say connected "= 12.4 and disconnected 13.4 Are you sure it is not 13+ when connected and 12.4 when disconnected? It would help me with my theory if you have swapped the numbers :D
 
ReptonAU said:
Sorry to be unclear. I was curious what the voltage on the connectors from the DC-DC converter is. If the 12V is disconnected and there is still voltage on the cables (after a while!) then it means that the HV is supplying the DC-DC converter. The Li-ion is not empty, but the HV would be active!!! The software needs to be reset, which does not work by disconnecting the 12V as it is NOT the only power source as the DC-DC keeps the software live. I had the problem and kept charging and plugging things in until it randomly got back on the rails. I do not know how to properly reset and nobody else wants to even consider it to be a software issue so that is also a dead end.

P.S. You say connected "= 12.4 and disconnected 13.4 Are you sure it is not 13+ when connected and 12.4 when disconnected? It would help me with my theory if you have swapped the numbers :D

i would have to find the dc-dc converter first :)

I bought a new 12 volt battery, and noticed, when using leafspy, the voltage, when the car was on, dropped to 12.4 volts.
Just to make sure the battery was ok, i disconnected the battery terminals and measured the nop load voltage. it was 13.4 volts.
 
When connected you measure the DC-DC output on the terminals (if there is an DC-DC output). Please do not start looking for the DC-DC converter, I believe that the HV is live.
If the car is OFF there should be no DC-DC output
UNLESS
When parked for a while and the 12V drains below a certain level the car is suppose to 'recharge the 12V (13+ volts from DC-DC) until done and then switch off again. II believe t is a software problem as it does not switch HV (DC-DC) off when finished recharging, The same problem appeared when people left the lights on overnight.
This is just my flawed theory because I can not explain the factual reality of your 12V battery generating 13.4 volts (after 10 minutes since disconnecting)
 
ReptonAU said:
When connected you measure the DC-DC output on the terminals (if there is an DC-DC output). Please do not start looking for the DC-DC converter, I believe that the HV is live.
If the car is OFF there should be no DC-DC output
UNLESS
When parked for a while and the 12V drains below a certain level the car is suppose to 'recharge the 12V (13+ volts from DC-DC) until done and then switch off again. It is a software problem that it does not switch HV (DC-DC) off when finished recharging, The same problem appeared when people left the lights on overnight.
This is just my flawed theory because I can not explain the factual reality of your 12V battery generating 13.4 volts (after 10 minutes since disconnecting)

Like i said earlier, i have an external c-tech charger connected to the 12 vol battery, so not to drain it when i'm trying to clear dtc's and error find.
 
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