ODB port dead, EV System error, Range and Economy not calculating

[John Trindle]

I know this has happened in the past to other members but was hoping for a fuse number or at least fuse box and capacity.

Went in for the second key programming this morning, everything working fine. Technician said ODB wasn't supplying power and I needed a fuse. Sure enough, my Carista doesn't light and Leafspy doesn't see it.

In addition, I now have the EV System warning light, my remaining range is dashes, and the efficiency bar graph shows 0.

Anybody know which fuse might be blown and whether it is in the interior or under-hood fuse box(es)? Thanks!

 

[nlspace]

What year and model?

 

[John Trindle]

What year and model?

Sorry, I keep thinking it says in my profile. 2015 Leaf S 24KWh

 

[John Trindle]

OK, I have definitely found a blown fuse that is linked to the OBD. Fuse 13 in the driver's side dash. The message with the clue was right here (in 2017):

https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/li...control-no-obd-as-well-as-shift-issues.23516/
Evidently this fuse controls the Body Control Module, among other things.

Unfortunately I bought a set of fuses slightly too physically large so I can't test it quite yet.

 

[Dooglas]

Sorry, I keep thinking it says in my profile. 2015 Leaf S 24KWh

If you open your account page and select signature, you can then enter information about your LEAF and it will then appear below each of your posts. Looking at the posts of other members, you will see that many of us already do that.

 

[John Trindle]

The OBD port works along with the range and efficiency (and other stuff I didn't notice) now that fuse 13 is replaced. The key tech didn't fry it this time, but the unit needed upgrading in a spot with good wifi... so key will be programmed tomorrow morning at 9:30, if my luck clears up.

 

[ClassicGOD]

Fuse 13 is a so called "extended storage switch" and is responsible for disconnecting (the car ships with fuse 13 removed) functions that cause constant load on 12V battery so it does not get discharged when the car is in sitting in a lot. Those functions include things like settings memory (explaining the missing efficiency data) or i-key transceivers. It's a 10A fuse that should never see anywhere close to 10A of load so I think your technician messed something up to make it pop. It's just too much of a coincidence that one of the least loaded fuses in a car happens to burn up when a technician does something with the OBD port.

 

[John Trindle]

To close the loop on this thread, the tech accessed my ODB with the software upgrade downloaded and installed on the programing unit (or Samsung phone client, which is also involved)... no further blown fuses, and the key is programmed! (much relieved applause). The average efficiency finally changed by .1 so I know it is working with the immediate efficiency bar graph. Taadaah!

I just wish my original solution of Car Keys Express and EZ Installer had worked, but I would have ended up with a non-cut electronically working key at best. I could have blown my own fuse, thank you.