nader said:
aqn said:That looks the bidness, right there! (The stance, not the ghetto masking tape lettering .)
I just realize, the doors are aluminum, so you couldn't have used magnetic numbers anyway!nader said:Pardon the tape job. It was super last minute.
Re. the LEAF's PAX factor: I suspect it'll be a long time before the SCCA specifies a meaningful class and/or PAX for the LEAF since it is quite unlike any existing vehicle. A Golf TDI or a Jetta station wagon TDI would be similar in configuration, size, shape, weight, and motive power characteristics. Those cars go in STC (Street Touring Compact) if running street tires and have few mods, or HS, ESP, or FP depending on level of modification (least to most).Drivesolo said:
Randy3 said:Nader - could you let us know BEFORE you run again? I'd like to come see your run!
Nice clean run. Did you have the traction control on or off? I didn't notice any inside wheel spin in the video.adrianco said:Here's the in-car video of my Leaf with Tein running AutoX at Santa Clara, CA (Great America parking lot) with the Lotus club last fall.
Electric4Me said:Nice clean run. Did you have the traction control on or off? I didn't notice any inside wheel spin in the video.adrianco said:Here's the in-car video of my Leaf with Tein running AutoX at Santa Clara, CA (Great America parking lot) with the Lotus club last fall.
It depends on the definition of an "anti-roll bar". If it's merely "something that reduces body roll" then yes, the LEAF has a stock rear "sway bar" (technically an "anti-sway bar).EricBayArea said:Do you have any info on the rear sway bar? Does the LEAF even have a stock bar? I didn't think it did...
aqn said:However, it's not the usual U-shaped appendage where the end of each leg of the U attaches to an unsprung part near the wheel and the center of the U swivels in bushings attached inboard to sprung mass:
I imagine an aftermarket anti-roll bar for the LEAF would be similar to how it is on other cars with twist beam rear suspension, for instance, older VW (up to early 2000's). I've seen that done in two ways. The first is to increase the stiffness of the twist beam by bolting a solid bar to it. The second is the more conventional U-shaped anti-roll bar, its ends attached with Heim joints to the bolt at the bottom of the shocks and its middle section swivel in bushings bolted to the twist beam. Either method requires drilling holes in the (hefty!!!) twist beam, which is most likely not very much fun!
Depends a LOT on car setup, weight distribution, suspension, current handling characteristics and desired handling characteristics.Volt3939 said:I thought that the front bar should get stiffer before the back?
It depends on a myriad of things, but a very general rule is, to increase traction at one end, add more roll stiffness to the other end. (A corollary is adding roll stiffness to one end will decrease traction at that end.) This applies to both front wheel drive and rear wheel drive vehicles.Volt3939 said:I thought that the front bar should get stiffer before the back? Maybe that's wrong for front wheel drive, I only know RWD.
My AX'er is RWD, mid engined, so maybe I'm way off, but after getting the front stiff, putting any sort of rear bar in my 914 is an exercise in rotation! I learned that just stiffening the rear springs was enough, the rear bar was just added weight.
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