The CANary project

[garygid]

For convenience, a link to the Fusion PCB Service through Seeed:
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-2-layers-p-835.html?cPath=185" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[TickTock]

Your link above just gets me to ebay, not any item on ebay.

You ARE planning to solder in the Mbed, or NOT solder it?

We thank you a bunch for sharing the details of your work.

try the link now

I am NOT soldering the mbed. Plan to socket it using the sockets my link (hopefully) points to.

 

[garygid]

Strangely, I see a URL flash by, and end up at

 http://www.ebay.com/?redirect=mobile

which is a general information page.

Trying another computer browser (IE on Vista Laptop):
Now, I end up at:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping-/221186042943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337fb72c3f" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Maybe this link will work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221186042943#ht_1736wt_877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I just bought some, Thanks.

 

[garygid]

Apparently something about this item 221186042943 makes it not
display properly if accessed from a/my mobile browser.

 

[TickTock]

Apparently something about this item 221186042943 makes it not
display properly if accessed from a/my mobile browser.

They all (including my original) work from my Galaxy S3 (both stock browser and Dolphin). I have Dolphin set to desktop mode (why I installed Dolphin) but the stock still identifies itself as a mobile browser. What device are you using?

 

[garygid]

A VIZIO Android tablet: VTAB1008

I never had trouble with Ebay before, but...
later I will try Dolphin.

Dolphin in mobile (Android) mode still fails the same way,
but in "desktop" mode it seems to work just fine.

 

[TickTock]

I put together a parts list on the Wiki (scroll down toward the bottom) as well as a zip containing the schematic and Eagle board design. Also, as I fix bugs, etc anyone who is building one of these may want to consider "Following" it by clicking the "Follow" button at the top. This way you will get an email notification automatically whenever a new version is published.

 

[TickTock]

These don't work after-all. I just started building one of the Rev0 PCBs and the pins on the mbed are too thick to fit. The stackable ones you referenced earlier do work but may create headroom issues in the new enclosure. Rev0 works but that is because the USB stick out 1/4" out the rear. I'll start looking for a low profile socket that can take the big square mbed pins.

Strangely, I see a URL flash by, and end up at

 http://www.ebay.com/?redirect=mobile

which is a general information page.

Trying another computer browser (IE on Vista Laptop):
Now, I end up at:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping-/221186042943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337fb72c3f" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Maybe this link will work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221186042943#ht_1736wt_877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I just bought some, Thanks.

 

[garygid]

Strange, now the two links just above DO work
with the Vizio Android tablet browser.

 

[TickTock]

Rev0 board is working. Besides the known bug of no thumbdrive power when debugging using the USB port (fixed with the red wire seen below), there was one more mistake. The display LED is actually connected to P23 on the board for all revs of the PCB. I had it on p24 and this is what was reflected in the code. I just published the latest source with this corrected to match the PCB (also a number of other enhancements).
Populated before plugging in the mbed:

Bottom:

Powered:

Calling it a night. Tomorrow I'll cram it into the enclosure.

 

[TickTock]

Assembled.

 

[garygid]

Very nice!

 

[TickTock]

I found these which should work (through hole headers).

These don't work after-all. I just started building one of the Rev0 PCBs and the pins on the mbed are too thick to fit. The stackable ones you referenced earlier do work but may create headroom issues in the new enclosure. Rev0 works but that is because the USB stick out 1/4" out the rear. I'll start looking for a low profile socket that can take the big square mbed pins.

Strangely, I see a URL flash by, and end up at

 http://www.ebay.com/?redirect=mobile

which is a general information page.

Trying another computer browser (IE on Vista Laptop):
Now, I end up at:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping-/221186042943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337fb72c3f" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Maybe this link will work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221186042943#ht_1736wt_877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I just bought some, Thanks.

 

[Turbo3]

Here is the updated schematic and final board layout with all the parts soldered in. Now I just need to wire up the back.

The board is a Sunhayato ICB-97 (30x50 holes) and the case is a PAC TEC HPL (7.5"x4"x1.138").

For the USB connection I am using an external cable from a PC bracket. The display is driven from the mbed USB +5 with a Schottky diode feeding +5 from the DC-DC when in the car. There is a jumper on the LED-ON so it can be always on or mbed controlled. A jumper on the +12 volts from the car lets me monitor idle current when CARary is asleep (needs to be less than 2 ma). Added lots of 0.1 uf decoupling caps.

Took me a couple of days to find my one and only battery holder.

(removed the unneeded 33 ohm resistors to USB socket, thanks TickTock)

Here it is in the case for a test fit.

Jim

 

[LEAFfan]

Assembled.

Awesome work! Looks great!

 

[garygid]

TickTock,
Above, you linked to a 50-pin header (BCS-150-L-S-PE), for about $7 each?

Did you mean to get 50-pin so that you could cut it down to two 1x20s?
Also, did you want -PE (alternates the solder-pins to either side) or
the -TE (the solder pins in a single row)?

Might these 1x10 female headers ($0.70) work?
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1020" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I see the BCS-120-x-D-PE would convert a two-row (2x20) to
two rows of 1x20 spaced 0.3" apart, which would be perfect
for connecting the display into a breadboard, right?

 

[Turbo3]

If you are going to socket the mbed you will need a socket like the one below in order to take the large header pins used on the mbed. I did not have a 40 pin but used a 32 and cut it to make four 10 pin sips. Even with a 40 pin socket you need to cut it since the row to row spacing is larger than standard for a 40 pin socket.

Here is my completed hand made 40 Pin mbed socket with the correct spacing. This is what I use but it is on the back side so the mbed does not stick up and hit the LCDs.

Jim

 

[TickTock]

A jumper on the +12 volts from the car lets me monitor idle current when CARary is asleep (needs to be less than 2 ma).

Sweet! Let me know what you find out. I have several sleep options commented out in the source. Would be interesting to see the difference in the idle power each draws

Added 33 ohm resistors to the USB data lines.

According to the schematics, the mbed board already has the 33 Ohm resistors.

Lots of really nice work!

 

[TickTock]

TickTock,
Above, you linked to a 50-pin header (BCS-150-L-S-PE), for about $7 each?

Did you mean to get 50-pin so that you could cut it down to two 1x20s?
Also, did you want -PE (alternates the solder-pins to either side) or
the -TE (the solder pins in a single row)?

Might these 1x10 female headers ($0.70) work?
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1020" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I see the BCS-120-x-D-PE would convert a two-row (2x20) to
two rows of 1x20 spaced 0.3" apart, which would be perfect
for connecting the display into a breadboard, right?

You can cut the 50-pin down to size (probably lose one pin in the process. It is a single row at .1" pitch, but is a pass-thru so the header can continue on through the PCB if you've drill a hole beneath it. However, it would be a major rework on the PCB and I don't like how every other pin connects to the opposite side. I thought I wanted surface mount for the pins so I don't end up with three holes for each pin (why I went with the -PE rather than the -TE). Also, because the displays are mounted on different planes (and because I was limited on board size with the free version of Eagle I was using), I didn't try to direct-connect the displays. I like the idea using BCS-120-x-D-PE for display direct connection - it does take some time to wire them up, but since I only plan to make two of these I decided to do the the work. If I was going into production, I would definitely explore that option. The normal headers like you shared are just too tall for the new enclosure and I am limited in headroom due to the space behind the dash and the angle I need on the displays. I think I will either 1) stick with the original machined socket and just replace the pins on the mbed with these, 2) use a cut 40 pin LP socket (like Turbo3 suggested) or 3) go ahead and solder the mbed in.

 

[garygid]

t3,
Where did you get the nice box?

tt,
You have a capacitor near R4, connected from the
collector to ground on the Rev0 board, but your
Wiki schematic shows it connected to the base and
ground. Why is it there?