True cost of electricity

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rat

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
977
Location
Silicon Valley
There have been several different threads or posts about how much it costs for the power to run a Leaf, but they all suffer from being too technical and not taking into account rate structure and other factors like usage patterns besides the car charging. With two PG&E bills to go off of now I think this way is simpler for most people and more accurate.

1. Compare your current electric bill (cost only) to the same month last year. Mine went up $21 for June, $24 for July. I got the car June 4 so these are pretty consistent.

2. Use Carwings or the odometer to determine your total driving distance for the month. I've been driving about 350 mi./mo.

3. Divide the $ from step 1 by the miles in step 2 and you have your cost in dollars per mile (or actually, cents per mile).

That's all there is to it. For me I drove about 700 mi. for a total increase in electric cost of $45 so the cost is about 6.4 cents per mile. Obviously this is just for the electricity, and does not take into account other factors. If you charge at work or pay for electricity elsewhere then you need to account for that separately, but for those of us charging exclusively at home and without solar this works. There's some inaccuracy because other factors may account for some of the difference from last year, like weather, vacations, etc. but after a few months those things average out.

From my electric bill I can determine that overall my average cost per Kwh is about 25 cents. My car used 129.4 Kwh during that period. If I multiply the two I get $32.35 of electricity used by the Leaf, or about 4.6 cents per mi. Why is this less than the way I just explained it above? Because the added electric consumption from the Leaf charging has pushed me from Tier 2 rates to higher Tier 3 rates, which are applied by the utility to all usage at any time of day, not just the periods when I charge. In effect by charging the Leaf I push up my costs for running the refrigerator, TV, oven, lights, etc. So the engineer's or scientist's logical approach of computing Kwh and applying rates is misleading. This is especially so if they logically use the rates from off-peak since they are charging during off-peak hours. That's only 5.6 cents per Kwh for Tier 1 here. The problem is that you aren't charging at Tier 1 rates if you have other usage, which everyone does (although if you have solar you may keep that usage off the utility's grid and stay in Tier 1). Energy usage is marginal, like taxes. If your ordinary non-Leaf usage is near the top of Tier 2, charging the car at night pushes you into Tier 3 not only for the off-peak charging, but for all times of day, at least for PG&E customers and other utilities that have baseline rates and higher rates for usage above that. So the bottom line is just divide dollars increase on electric bill by miles driven; that's your true cost, no spreadsheet needed.
 
Rat said:
...So the bottom line is just divide dollars increase on electric bill by miles driven; that's your true cost, no spreadsheet needed.
Can't see that working very well. My electric bills could vary from year to year by nearly that much BEFORE I got the car.
 
Rat said:
1. Compare your current electric bill (cost only) to the same month last year. Mine went up $21 for June, $24 for July. I got the car June 4 so these are pretty consistent.

Are you sure this is the best way to figure that out? This don't take into account many factors. This June was hotter than it was last year, so our bill went up due to increased useage of the AC. (I don't have my LEAF yet). In fact, when I've looked back at each month compared to the previous years, there has always been ~$10-30 fluctuation due to many factors.

Your method may work as a ballpark, but I don't think you'll get very accurate results.
 
EdmondLeaf said:
Very simple here in OK
4.5c per kWh for charging EV, no matter how many KWh I use, but no LEAF yet

Yes, we are lucky to have cheap energy in OK. I was told that based on pure KWh math, it costs about $1.20 to fully charge the Leaf's battery (which is a usable 21 KWh).
 
not sure what "too technical" about "XX miles per KWH" is supposed to mean.

my electric bill increase would only be used for comparison after rates were compared, mileage driven, etc. i post my cents per mile cost as well, but i pay lower rates that most on the West Coast due to abundant and cheap hydro. for example, went camping,

plugged into campsite, used 18 KWH.
2011-07-23_05-28-49_650.jpg




power generated by
2011-07-23_14-44-35_226.jpg


from snow melt from the Olympics and funneled over the hill into the power station
2011-07-23_14-45-34_541.jpg


all provided by
2011-07-23_14-51-45_566.jpg


so that was free. other than that, i average around 220 miles a week at a cost of $7.12 in electricity
 
Rat said:
From my electric bill I can determine that overall my average cost per Kwh is about 25 cents. My car used 129.4 Kwh during that period. If I multiply the two I get $32.35 of electricity used by the Leaf, or about 4.6 cents per mi. Why is this less than the way I just explained it above? Because the added electric consumption from the Leaf charging has pushed me from Tier 2 rates to higher Tier 3 rates, which are applied by the utility to all usage at any time of day, not just the periods when I charge. In effect by charging the Leaf I push up my costs for running the refrigerator, TV, oven, lights, etc. So the engineer's or scientist's logical approach of computing Kwh and applying rates is misleading. This is especially so if they logically use the rates from off-peak since they are charging during off-peak hours. That's only 5.6 cents per Kwh for Tier 1 here. The problem is that you aren't charging at Tier 1 rates if you have other usage, which everyone does (although if you have solar you may keep that usage off the utility's grid and stay in Tier 1). Energy usage is marginal, like taxes. If your ordinary non-Leaf usage is near the top of Tier 2, charging the car at night pushes you into Tier 3 not only for the off-peak charging, but for all times of day, at least for PG&E customers and other utilities that have baseline rates and higher rates for usage above that.
You're right about the marginal cost, but most forum members seem to be on solar PV and/or TOU rates. I went on SCE's whole-house TOU rate and my bill actually dropped, likely because our evening A/C use fell from "regular" Tier 4-5 rates to the TOU off-peak "Tier 2" (higher of two tiers) rate, even with the Leaf charging.
If your bill isn't weather-related (as you suggest), you probably have light/no AC usage, and should strongly consider PG&E's TOU rates.
 
If you have a charger that shows how many kWh you've used for the month, like the Blink, you can find the number of kWh used for the month just by reading the display. Then just calculate the average cost of a kWh for that month and multiply. Or if you want to find the additional cost of charging the Leaf you just multiply the number of kWh used by the incremental cost of those kWh.

People on TOU plans have much more complicated calculations.
 
EricH said:
You're right about the marginal cost, but most forum members seem to be on solar PV and/or TOU rates. I went on SCE's whole-house TOU rate and my bill actually dropped, likely because our evening A/C use fell from "regular" Tier 4-5 rates to the TOU off-peak "Tier 2" (higher of two tiers) rate, even with the Leaf charging.
If you have a PV system then you're probably also getting paid at premium rates for production during the day which will buy more kWh at off peak rates.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
my electric bill increase would only be used for comparison after rates were compared, mileage driven, etc. i post my cents per mile cost as well, but i pay lower rates that most on the West Coast due to abundant and cheap hydro. for example, went camping
Don't forget that 30%+ of your electricity is generated from coal fired plants. Also keep in mind that a big part of the cost of power is in the distribution and transmission.
 
The amount generated by coal is during peak times during summer from about 11 am to about 7 pm. Nearly all my charging is outside that time period where it goes to 98%+ green power.

Most days i charge 2-3 hoirs from about 8-9 pm to about 11
 
My Blink charger tells me that around 10 kWh is used every night. I am in tier 1 and on E9A. This works out to about $0.50 each night.

The commute is about 35 miles. So my cost is 0.50/40 = 1.4 cents / mile.
 
greenleaf said:
My Blink charger tells me that around 10 kWh is used every night. I am in tier 1 and on E9A. This works out to about $0.50 each night.

The commute is about 35 miles. So my cost is 0.50/40 = 1.4 cents / mile.

I have the 2nd meter, so my cost is easy to calculate. I just got my 1st bill from SDG&E today. The "Leaf meter" shows 209KW charged from 6/13 to 7/13/2011, at a total cost of $14.97. Mileage put on the car for this period was 954 miles. So, my actual cost of electricity for the Leaf was 1.7 cents per mile.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
The amount generated by coal is during peak times during summer from about 11 am to about 7 pm.
I was under the impression that coal fired power plants are baseload.
 
SanDust said:
I was under the impression that coal fired power plants are baseload.
Plants are typically dispatched in order of their variable fuel costs. Since coal and nuclear have low fuel costs, they tend to be used as "baseload", meaning they are the last ones ramped down in periods of low demand. However, most alt/renewables (hydro, wind) have zero fuel cost, so the proportion of electricity generated by fossil fuels is nearly always lowest at night, when most EV charging is supposed to occur.

I think this is what the OP was referring to when they suggested the proportion of alt/ren is highest at night.
 
SanDust said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
The amount generated by coal is during peak times during summer from about 11 am to about 7 pm.
I was under the impression that coal fired power plants are baseload.

not here. we have a HUGE network of hydro Dam courtesy of two Mountain Systems; the Olympics and the Cascades. so our base load is 100% hydro.

our problem is growth has created a shortage of power during peak demand times. we "could" generate enough electricity but that would simply cause other problems like flooding, erosion, etc.

what we would prefer to do is raise the base load but that is difficult since the night time demand is very low. selling power to other areas is part of a solution and pumping water back over the Dam is another. neither of which is cost effective and only done to manage the massive volumes of water that has to be managed.

the power house i showed in the earlier post is a very very very small project and is taking run off from Lake Cushman which a very large Dam Project off the Olympics but pales in comparison to the Cascades Network of Dams

in the Puget Sound region where 75% of WA State lives, our coal ratio is in the low 30"s and is being tapered down to under 20% by 2020 but that is daytime demand only. off peak is 100% hydro or wind.

the overall state average is in the upper 80's for hydro/wind only because outside the Puget Sound Region it is pretty much 100% green power
 
SanDust said:
If you have a PV system then you're probably also getting paid at premium rates for production during the day which will buy more kWh at off peak rates.

It depends on the utility. Ours pays LESS (about .03/Kwh) for any extra generation. Only on 'basic' do you have true net metering. This year we used more A/C, plus the LEAF and our July bill was only $45 ($16 of that is the connect fee). Last year, on TOU, we used A/C less, and the bill was $150.
 
The method I mentioned isn't for everybody. If your bills vary quite a bit from year to year it won't be very accurate, at least not until you average a long time - i.e. at least one full year if you are (or were before) on TOU. We don't have A/C in our house (don't need it here) and our kids are gone so our usage is pretty much the same every year during summer months - just the usual lights, TV, washing machine, refrigerator, computers, etc. which don't vary significantly. During winter it can vary somewhat based on weather; we have a gas furnace but it draws significant power for the fan and we spend more time indoors during bad weather affecting all the other things mentioned. So for us this works. I can say with considerable confidence that the increase in the bill is due almost entirely to the Leaf. I disagree that most Leaf buyers are on solar; maybe most of the die hard evironmentalists here on the forum but I know two Leaf owners who are not on this forum and don't have solar. I suspect my situation will be typical of a large and increasing number of owners.

But the objection that you have to compare rates from last year to this year to figure the cost misses the point. We went to a TOU plan because we got the car and that affects what we pay for all our electricity. The Leaf thus either costs or saves us money because of that rate change and is a legitimate factor in computing true cost. In fact, we went to E9A last December even though we didn't have the car. PG&E wouldn't let most people do that but we lucked out, and that saved us about $10 mo. for six mos since we weren't charging the car. Because there is a significant difference during winter and summer months when on TOU, I really won't know how much the Leaf costs on an annual basis until I've gone through at least part of the winter months. But the figure for now is an accurate one, I'm convinced. I could do the math and figure out what our bill would have been had I charged during the winter months, but I don't want to bother. I expect once the TOU rates change to winter mode I'll end up paying about what I did last year before the E9A rate, thus making the cost per mi. near 0. If you get free charging at work or anywhere else, that, too, is a legitimate factor that may cut your cost per mi. I'm not interested in what is THE cost of electricity for the Leaf; I'm interested in what is MY cost. In my case it is the same but in yours it may not be.

The advice above to multiply the Kwh used by the Leaf X the average cost per Kwh to compute net cost is valid only if your rate per Kwh stays steady. But that isn't true for anyone on TOU plans, and it isn't even true for those not on TOU plans if they are charged different rates based on total usage, e.g. tiered rate plans which is certainly anyone using PG&E and I suspect most other utilities these days. If you increase your usage significantly by charging, which most people will, you will increase the average cost per Kwh as we did.
 
Back
Top