You have two options. One is using the ChaDeMo port which is how it was intended to draw power from the Leaf to power something. The other is to tap the 12V system with an inverter, but this has a limit of roughly 1,500 watts. About the same as having one working 120V outlet in your home. Both can be done in a safe manner when wired correctly and setup for the proper power loads. I've been using the 12V tap method for nearly a decade now because it was the cheapest setup for me, though limited as it is, still plenty of power for a blackout if you need to keep food cold, run a microwave to cook food, lights, TV, etc.
Yes, both methods use the "big" battery, just one is officially supported (via ChaDeMo) and the other is a hacky way of accessing the power.
I'm also trying to use the V2L option viaYes, both methods use the "big" battery, just one is officially supported (via ChaDeMo) and the other is a hacky way of accessing the power.
Yes, via ChaDeMo, you don't need a key. When using the 12V system, you have to leave the Leaf in "drive" mode. You can still turn off everything (lights, AC, fans, radio, etc.) and lock the Leaf doing this. I've done it for literal days at a time during emergencies. I can't speak for all models, but my 2013 and 2020 have been "on" for days at a time with no ill effect for almost a dozens times in their lifetime of use.
Using the 12V for power does take some electrical science knowledge though or else bad things could happen if you try to draw too much power, wire it wrong, size the power wrong, etc.
Any of the old assumptions about ICE vehicles have to be left behind when dealing with an EV as it's a completely different beast in its own right.
The only thing I will add is that the method of taping the 12V power does use the DC to DC buck converter, which produces a little heat. That just means to make sure your coolant system is filled properly and that you have no water pump issues, which is a rare thing, but it does happen from the post others have made here. Basically, if your Leaf is not producing dash codes about the water pumps or coolant already, then you should be fine.
The ChaDeMo protocol supports this, but Nissan does not sell any V2L / V2H device in the USA, and according to an earlier post above, the Chinese company that sold such devices at one time is no longer selling them in the USA. But, if you want to learn more, you can read about it at https://www.setec-power.com/vehicle-to-home-v2h-6kw-charger/
Plus the contactor in the battery, which has a precharge relay as well. Sure you could hack the controllers to get DC at the Chademo port, but you have no way of protecting the battery from over discharge. To get power safely from the main battery, you need the battery's BMS in the control loop. So, an actual Chademo V2X device, or grab 12 volt at the accessory battery.
Yes. Car needs to be powered ‘On’. No need to worry about burning out the ignition — none of that equipment exists. You are correct this is the simplest way to get about 1 kw power out of the car. I ran two heavy-duty extension cords off a 1.5 kw inverter (connected to the 12v battery) for about two days — it easily ran two refrigerators, one k-cup coffee maker, one cable internet connection, and quite a number of lights and power strips to charge cell phones and iPads. I estimate this setup is good for about 10 days to two weeks.
