ELROY
Well-known member
Just got my new 2012 Leaf SL last weekend.
Still kind of shocked by some of my observations, but not sure it is because of a defect or normal.
Range:
When I first purchased the car, I went up the freeway 2.5 mile (6%) grade at 60mph, the range dropped around 25 miles!
( I have since learned that highway speeds and grades kill the range on the leaf). My biggest surprise was coming back down that 2.5 mile (6%) grade, I figured I would recapture much of the energy. My range only went up 2 miles!
But besides that episode here are some of my range experiences:
BARS Start..BARS End..GOM Range Elapsed.......Actual Mileage
7..................5.............18 Miles ....................12.6 Actual .....Mostly city driving Some AC, Driver Only
6..................2.............44 Mi........................27.9 Actual .....Mostly city driving Some AC Driver Only
10................8.............29 Miles.....................8.9 Actual......Mostly city driving Some AC Driver Only
Today I just did the following trip specifically to check the range capability on the car. Drove from Camarillo to Ojai and back (Ojai is about +600ft elevation). Temps 80F. AC not used except for perhaps 3 minutes total. . Cruise control about 90% of the time. Drove to Ojai (which is 32 miles from Camarillo) in "D", and on the way back in ECO Mode. After arriving back in Camarillo, I just drove around town in the open farm roads around 40-50mph till battery bars were depleted. This trip included my wife and two kids. About 275 lbs additional over just myself.
Bars Start.....Bars End...........GOM Elapsed Range....Actual Mileage ..Comments.
12 Bars.........0 Bars...............88 Miles..................80.7 Miles ......60mph (36mi), 50mph (16mi), 40mph (mi)
So this was my most reassuring test so far. At least for the first time, the actual range was close to the predicted GOM range. My main purpose was to see how far I could go on a full 100% charge anyways.
It now says it will take 22hrs to charge.....I hate the slow charging!
Charging Questions:
I have been reading many threads on the charging options, and here are my questions I couldn’t find answers to:
a) Is it true the Level 2 chargers are more efficient than the trickle charger? 85% vs 75% or so? If so, what technically makes them more efficient?
b) When your battery deteriorates over time, how does the affect efficiency? ie, if your battery loses 20% of its capacity, does it actually take 20% less power to charge it also? Or is it wasted energy that is not recovered?
Heating Inop?:
I have read about several members with inop interior heaters on their 2012 LEAFs.
I was beginning to think the LEAF was designed with the heated seats and steering wheel since it didn't have a heater!
I have head some people say their dealership though it was a bad heater motor, some had bad control units, and others have had their poor new cars thoroughly disassembled as the techs are tryiing to figure this thing out. I would rather wait till they know for sure what is going on with this issue. Anything concrete yet on these failures?
Level 2 charging:
This is my last, and probably most important question:
I called the SCE rep and asked them about my electrical billing specifics. I am currently on what they call a "Domestic Rate Plan" It can go anywhere from .12 cents per kw/hr on tier 1 to .32 cents per kw/hr on tier 5.
With my regular home electrical needs, I am already at tier 5. So almost .50 cents an hr (1.5kw/hr charger) for 22hrs to charge this battery on the trickle charger. That’s almost $11 dollars to go 80 mlles at best. Not impressive at all considering my 2011 335d which can get (45mpg on the highway) can do the same thing on $11 with much more comfort, speed (300hp/500lbs/tq with a JBD), A/C, etc.
So it looks like I need to get the SCE TOULEV1 (Separate Meter) Plan ASAP!
It will then be .12 cent kw/hr off peak winter, and .13 cents kw/hr off peak summer. I figure this would then lower my effective price of charging the battery to $4.29. Does that sound right? But man, throw in the $2000 price of a level 2 charger set up, and with my driving (8000mi/yr), it will take a long time to recoup the costs.
I hear there were special offers by BLINK, but the rep told me there is no program in my area (93010). I’m so bummed out. I have a few questions?
a) What is the most cost effective way of getting this Level 2 charging set up at my house?
b) I have a 240V dryer outlet in the garage...but it is not on a separate meter. Wonder if they can rewire it at the box to go through a separate meter?). This would save a bunch of rewiring labor I would think.
c). I have seen ads for reworking my trickle charger for auto detect 240V input. Have people been using this method reliably and does it still have comparable efficiency ratings? I have seen the mod for as low as $250 or so.
d). Does anyone know what a plug in Blink or Aeroinvironment Level 2 charger runs? Typical Electrician charges? Where do I find someone experienced with these things, and yet reasonable in labor costs?
e) Isn't there some kind of a 30% federal rebate on the charger installations?
Sorry for all the questions...I know this is my first newbie post, but I have been reading countless posts on this forum, but still have questions.
Also, why do some people talk about the $7500 government tax rebate as something you get at the end of the year, when my dealership took it right off the purchase price of the car. Does the charger install rebates work the same way, the contractors/charger supplier discount the price you pay up front? Or do you have to file it on your tax return or something?
Still kind of shocked by some of my observations, but not sure it is because of a defect or normal.
Range:
When I first purchased the car, I went up the freeway 2.5 mile (6%) grade at 60mph, the range dropped around 25 miles!
( I have since learned that highway speeds and grades kill the range on the leaf). My biggest surprise was coming back down that 2.5 mile (6%) grade, I figured I would recapture much of the energy. My range only went up 2 miles!
But besides that episode here are some of my range experiences:
BARS Start..BARS End..GOM Range Elapsed.......Actual Mileage
7..................5.............18 Miles ....................12.6 Actual .....Mostly city driving Some AC, Driver Only
6..................2.............44 Mi........................27.9 Actual .....Mostly city driving Some AC Driver Only
10................8.............29 Miles.....................8.9 Actual......Mostly city driving Some AC Driver Only
Today I just did the following trip specifically to check the range capability on the car. Drove from Camarillo to Ojai and back (Ojai is about +600ft elevation). Temps 80F. AC not used except for perhaps 3 minutes total. . Cruise control about 90% of the time. Drove to Ojai (which is 32 miles from Camarillo) in "D", and on the way back in ECO Mode. After arriving back in Camarillo, I just drove around town in the open farm roads around 40-50mph till battery bars were depleted. This trip included my wife and two kids. About 275 lbs additional over just myself.
Bars Start.....Bars End...........GOM Elapsed Range....Actual Mileage ..Comments.
12 Bars.........0 Bars...............88 Miles..................80.7 Miles ......60mph (36mi), 50mph (16mi), 40mph (mi)
So this was my most reassuring test so far. At least for the first time, the actual range was close to the predicted GOM range. My main purpose was to see how far I could go on a full 100% charge anyways.
It now says it will take 22hrs to charge.....I hate the slow charging!
Charging Questions:
I have been reading many threads on the charging options, and here are my questions I couldn’t find answers to:
a) Is it true the Level 2 chargers are more efficient than the trickle charger? 85% vs 75% or so? If so, what technically makes them more efficient?
b) When your battery deteriorates over time, how does the affect efficiency? ie, if your battery loses 20% of its capacity, does it actually take 20% less power to charge it also? Or is it wasted energy that is not recovered?
Heating Inop?:
I have read about several members with inop interior heaters on their 2012 LEAFs.
I was beginning to think the LEAF was designed with the heated seats and steering wheel since it didn't have a heater!
I have head some people say their dealership though it was a bad heater motor, some had bad control units, and others have had their poor new cars thoroughly disassembled as the techs are tryiing to figure this thing out. I would rather wait till they know for sure what is going on with this issue. Anything concrete yet on these failures?
Level 2 charging:
This is my last, and probably most important question:
I called the SCE rep and asked them about my electrical billing specifics. I am currently on what they call a "Domestic Rate Plan" It can go anywhere from .12 cents per kw/hr on tier 1 to .32 cents per kw/hr on tier 5.
With my regular home electrical needs, I am already at tier 5. So almost .50 cents an hr (1.5kw/hr charger) for 22hrs to charge this battery on the trickle charger. That’s almost $11 dollars to go 80 mlles at best. Not impressive at all considering my 2011 335d which can get (45mpg on the highway) can do the same thing on $11 with much more comfort, speed (300hp/500lbs/tq with a JBD), A/C, etc.
So it looks like I need to get the SCE TOULEV1 (Separate Meter) Plan ASAP!
It will then be .12 cent kw/hr off peak winter, and .13 cents kw/hr off peak summer. I figure this would then lower my effective price of charging the battery to $4.29. Does that sound right? But man, throw in the $2000 price of a level 2 charger set up, and with my driving (8000mi/yr), it will take a long time to recoup the costs.
I hear there were special offers by BLINK, but the rep told me there is no program in my area (93010). I’m so bummed out. I have a few questions?
a) What is the most cost effective way of getting this Level 2 charging set up at my house?
b) I have a 240V dryer outlet in the garage...but it is not on a separate meter. Wonder if they can rewire it at the box to go through a separate meter?). This would save a bunch of rewiring labor I would think.
c). I have seen ads for reworking my trickle charger for auto detect 240V input. Have people been using this method reliably and does it still have comparable efficiency ratings? I have seen the mod for as low as $250 or so.
d). Does anyone know what a plug in Blink or Aeroinvironment Level 2 charger runs? Typical Electrician charges? Where do I find someone experienced with these things, and yet reasonable in labor costs?
e) Isn't there some kind of a 30% federal rebate on the charger installations?
Sorry for all the questions...I know this is my first newbie post, but I have been reading countless posts on this forum, but still have questions.
Also, why do some people talk about the $7500 government tax rebate as something you get at the end of the year, when my dealership took it right off the purchase price of the car. Does the charger install rebates work the same way, the contractors/charger supplier discount the price you pay up front? Or do you have to file it on your tax return or something?