barcelona35
New member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2013
- Messages
- 1
Greetings,
My driver's window suddenly failed to operate with all other windows working fine. About 2 weeks later my leaf was parked disconnected from any EVSE with charge timers and climate control timers deactivated. 5 days of the leaf being parked and unused in around 50F average temp. the 12v battery was totally drained and the leaf would not start. 12v battery now no longer serviceable and needed replaced.
I believe there is a correlation between the two. Upon dismantling my master window switch, I found that a small IC on the bottom of the PCB is extremely hot while the board is plugged in. This happens no matter what power state the car is in. This makes sense since there is a power supply line that is "always on" providing the master window switch with uninterrupted power to keep the auto-up/down memory data.
My theory is this failed auto-up/down logic on this PCB caused it to draw more current from the battery than designed, and drained the battery over the course of the 5 days the car was not used.
I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this progression of failures? Driver's window fails and if left un-fixed, and un-driven for a bit, you get a dead (or weakened) 12v battery as well.
OR
If anyone is comfortable (should not be attempted if you do not have electronics repair experience) dismantling their good master window switch(my nissan part number on the plastic housing ends in A, I understand this has been replaced by one ending in B), is there an IC on the bottom of the PCB near the ALPS logo that is "CAUTION - burn possible" hot to the touch whenever this PCB is plugged in?
At least a point of caution if your driver's window fails to operate. I'm trying to save someone else a ruined 12v battery after their master window switch fails.
My driver's window suddenly failed to operate with all other windows working fine. About 2 weeks later my leaf was parked disconnected from any EVSE with charge timers and climate control timers deactivated. 5 days of the leaf being parked and unused in around 50F average temp. the 12v battery was totally drained and the leaf would not start. 12v battery now no longer serviceable and needed replaced.
I believe there is a correlation between the two. Upon dismantling my master window switch, I found that a small IC on the bottom of the PCB is extremely hot while the board is plugged in. This happens no matter what power state the car is in. This makes sense since there is a power supply line that is "always on" providing the master window switch with uninterrupted power to keep the auto-up/down memory data.
My theory is this failed auto-up/down logic on this PCB caused it to draw more current from the battery than designed, and drained the battery over the course of the 5 days the car was not used.
I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this progression of failures? Driver's window fails and if left un-fixed, and un-driven for a bit, you get a dead (or weakened) 12v battery as well.
OR
If anyone is comfortable (should not be attempted if you do not have electronics repair experience) dismantling their good master window switch(my nissan part number on the plastic housing ends in A, I understand this has been replaced by one ending in B), is there an IC on the bottom of the PCB near the ALPS logo that is "CAUTION - burn possible" hot to the touch whenever this PCB is plugged in?
At least a point of caution if your driver's window fails to operate. I'm trying to save someone else a ruined 12v battery after their master window switch fails.