wwhitney wrote:Ok, I got the cord changed yesterday and the car charged fine overnight.
I couldn't easily find ferrules to crimp on the L1 and L2 wires, so I crimped on insulated pin connectors. The pin then goes into the set screw connector on the Blink's internal circuit breaker. I also considered using an uninsulated butt splice as a ferrule and cutting off the excess, but I decided against that. Not sure whether that might have been a better solution. The ground wire was terminated with a insulated ring connector (on a stud with an 11mm nut), so that was easy to duplicate.
On the pilot wire, note that the Blink cable has a blue #18 pilot wire and the Leviton cable has an orange #16 pilot wire. I made sure to keep the pilot wire shorter than the other wires, as in the original installation. I determined that the disconnect in the original pilot wire was an insulated "snap" disconnect. I found an insulated "bullet" disconnect female that mated well with the original male pigtail and then reused that pigtail.
Also, the outer diameter of the Leviton cable is about 1/16" greater than on the Blink cable. So it was a snug fit going through the strain relief connector coming out of the bottom of the Blink chassis, but it worked OK.
I'm thinking that for thoroughness I should get an IR thermometer and measure the temperature rises on the terminations I made after a few hours of charging. What temperature rise should I expect for a good connection? I have a 2011 Leaf, so it will have been charging at only 16 amps.
I'm about to perform this exact same procedure. Although I haven't taken the case off yet, I think I can imagine what we are talking about here and wondering what the best solution is for crimping on some sort of ferulle for the L1 and L2 wires.