DarkStar
Well-known member
They would probably determine that the diode is broken and replace the whole charger. That's what they did for the guy in SE Portland.
Unless it happens in 2013 and they end up giving you a new 6.6 kW charger! :lol:garygid said:I would be a shame if the diode blowing (or shorting?) requires a whole new, non-noisy Charger to be installed into your LEAF.
Gee - if SOME GROUP of Leaf'rs had problems with their on board charger(s) which continued causing RFI throughout their house . . . . and Nissan ignored it - and continued to ignore it . . . month after month . . . it'd be a crying shame if those SAME Leaf'rs managed to fry that same diode in THEIR on board sharger, wouldn't it? Accidentally of course. They'd ALL get new on board chargers (more quickly), in stead of just having to wait for ALL ETERNITY for Nissan go get around to simply adding a new filter for their noisy on board charger. Gee ... they wouldn't even have to wait until heck freezes over before Nissan got of their numb back sides to take care of the old issue. Gee - I wonder which is more costly ... a measly torrid, or an entire charger. Hmmm. :evil:DarkStar said:Ding! I know what the problem is!pjoseph said:Took the car in to the dealer's service department. We managed to duplicate the problem just exactly as Davewill had mentioned above. Charging works on L1 & AV, but fails on Chargepoint & Schneider.
The diode in your charger unit is fried. The L1 & AV units don't test for the +/- 12 volt signal, while the ChargePoint, Schneider, and Blink do.
A guy here in Portland had to get his whole charger unit replaced in his Leaf because of a problem with very similar symptoms.
Yes.Jasonpara said:By the way, does anyone know is there is a thread on here for tire problems or tire wear?
garygid said:Mostly, when diodes blow, it is an open-circuit, not a short-circuit.
An open-circuit at the diode might just make the car not charge at all, since the EVSE might not detect the car being plugged in at all.
Hard to say for sure what would happen with any particular car-EVSE pair. But, likely no charging.
Hey, here's a opportunity to build a little tester...maybe we can sell them to people who don't want to bother with an ohmmeter. I know, we'll build it right into the connector. Let's see...garygid said:A simple resistance check between the CP (Control Pilot) input pin and the Ground pin on the LEAF's J1772 socket, with the LEAF Off ... should check for the diode: The resistance should be about 3k ohms in one direction (polarity) and very high resistance (probably over 100k ohms) in the other polarity.
pjoseph said:garygid said:Mostly, when diodes blow, it is an open-circuit, not a short-circuit.
An open-circuit at the diode might just make the car not charge at all, since the EVSE might not detect the car being plugged in at all.
Hard to say for sure what would happen with any particular car-EVSE pair. But, likely no charging.
Gary, This is a clear explanation of what i am seeing. Although there is the rare occasion (such as the one when both the car & the EVSE sat idle for nine days) that L2 charging worked for a day or so.
Have been on L1 charging for almost a month now. It is tough to drive 75 miles a day with this, so i've had to plan my trips carefully and drive ECOnomically. Otherwise the car drives fine, and that has been the saving grace.
JCBNJB said:To the OP and others who had this happen/know of it happening, was it a big deal to get the dealer to run the diode check?
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