Do It Yourself: 240v from two 120v sources

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eHelmholtz said:
hill said:
pretty clean ... good job!
(segway) iirc, someone on the thread asked me about hooking up our 240v from 120v sourc boxes on receptacles with gfi's. I'd mentioned spoofing their gfi's with a 120v isolation transformer. I think my wife's uncle wired it up something like this (forgive the primitive drawing skills please) :

Cool! that's very helpful. Do you have a photo of the actual transformer and setup you have?
it's been collecting dust the past 1½ years ... since QC's finally started showing up
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5nsp3k.jpg

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Wow! A friend just pointed this out to me. Valery over at EMW is selling Y connectors, taking 2 120V outlets to make a 240V. This is not for the faint hearted and reminds me of his initial attempts at a less than $100 EVSE. This is from his website:

"Dual 'regular' 3-prong household plug - to convert 2 120V outlets in your house into a mighty 240v supply. You will have to provide your own extension cords to reach those two sockets (which will have to be on different 'branches' in your house wiring). You can get those extension cords pretty much anywhere (Home Depot in the US, etc). Just make sure you use heavy duty 12 or 10 gauge cords. With your purchase of this adapter, we will be supplying directions on how to identify which sockets sit on different branches. It is really easy. You can also test your circuit yourself before ordering to make sure it will work with this adapter. Note the breakers for your respective outlets that you would like to use, then in your electrical panel, measure the voltage between the wires that enter the respective breakers. You will see either 240V or 0V. If you see 240V, you can use those outlets to get 240V. Note that the outlets have to be regular 120V outlets, not the GFCI type (GFCI outlets normally have a test button and a small indication light)."

This is example from the field:
120%2Bto%2B240%2Bfront%2B.jpg

dual_adapter_1412299193.jpg
 
I wonder... has anyone ever tried building a combiner box without the safety relays, and actually testing what current is available on the disconnected plug? It might be possible that the evse turns off the moment it sees an anomaly in the power and will not pass the current through to the disconnected plug. Just a disclaimer.. I'm not saying the relays are not necessary, but I am curious exactly how much a danger there is without them.
 
johnrhansen said:
I wonder... has anyone ever tried building a combiner box without the safety relays, and actually testing what current is available on the disconnected plug? It might be possible that the evse turns off the moment it sees an anomaly in the power and will not pass the current through to the disconnected plug. Just a disclaimer.. I'm not saying the relays are not necessary, but I am curious exactly how much a danger there is without them.


It doesn't matter if the EVSE turns off. 120V will still be flowing through the Quick220-type device from the one plug that's still plugged into the wall. The moment you touch the prongs on the end you've unplugged, you'll get zapped.
 
mwalsh said:
johnrhansen said:
I wonder... has anyone ever tried building a combiner box without the safety relays, and actually testing what current is available on the disconnected plug? It might be possible that the evse turns off the moment it sees an anomaly in the power and will not pass the current through to the disconnected plug. Just a disclaimer.. I'm not saying the relays are not necessary, but I am curious exactly how much a danger there is without them.


It doesn't matter if the EVSE turns off. 120V will still be flowing through the Quick220-type device from the one plug that's still plugged into the wall. The moment you touch the prongs on the end you've unplugged, you'll get zapped.

Essentially the current available to shock you will be whatever "small" amount the EVSE is using to power itself right? The issue is it only takes x milliamps to kill you. You'll basically become part of the neutral side of a 120 volt circuit powering the EVSE it self.
 
The name may be a trademark but if it is not defended it becomes public domain, i.e. Kleenex, Xerox, Vaseline, etc. Anyway, hopefully it would be a Quick240!

In any case, it should be made clear that the device pictured is dangerously unsafe. Yes, it will work but one must be very careful, never make a mistake, continuously supervise it and be sure to will it to someone who is equally qualified after you are gone.

TonyWilliams said:
I'm sure folks know that the "Quick220" is patented.

I guess we need to know when that runs out, and I'll offer a "safe" version.
 
not to mention the unprotected wires... I built one of those combiner boxes without relays, but thought better of it, and never used it. I plan to add relays to it and rebuild it with 10 gauge wire so i can combine 2 of the tt30s at old style rv parks. But before I do, I'll do a little test and measure the current to ground from the hot while I unplug it. I'll build a proper test setup, and report back with what I find. I expect to find exactly what you all are saying... but numbers are good instead of conjecture.
 
I wish you guys would knock it off with all this stuff before somebody either gets killed or burns their house down and adds to the EV FUD. You wouldn't hook up a water heater, range, or central AC unit with these sorts of kludges. Get a hunk of 8/2 romex and a 40A breaker and do it right so you can sleep at night. JMO.
 
To be clear, a device that combines 2x120v outlets can be done safely if implemented with relays and the current draw is limited to what's appropriate for the donor outlet which is typically 15-18a.

Also, there's another company called streambrite that makes a similar device to the quick220 folks so quick220 maybe copyrighted but the implementation of our forum quick240 or easy240 should not be.
 
TonyWilliams said:
I'm sure folks know that the "Quick220" is patented.

I guess we need to know when that runs out, and I'll offer a "safe" version.

IANAL but not until Sep 4, 2018 :(

https://www.google.com/patents/US5977658" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
eHelmholtz said:
To be clear, a device that combines 2x120v outlets can be done safely if implemented with relays and the current draw is limited to what's appropriate for the donor outlet which is typically 15-18a.

Also, there's another company called streambrite that makes a similar device to the quick220 folks so quick220 maybe copyrighted but the implementation of our forum quick240 or easy240 should not be.

URL?
 
eHelmholtz said:
QueenBee said:
Here's the link: They call it the Power Joiner Step-up inverter. There's discussion on the Tesla forum whether to buy this one or the quick220. Here's a link to their basic one without a voltmeter:
10-30-joiner-quick220.jpg

Odd, not sure why anyone would buy that one over Quick220. This looks like a giant version of what someone would DIY. The Quick220 looks like an actual product. Obviously the real question is what is on the inside and the quality of the insides but...

It has to have relays in it right even though I can't hear them?

What is odd though is they warn against plugging it into a reverse polarity receptacle. With the proper relays setup this should just cause them not to close.

Also why can't either of these companies understand what the real voltage in North America is?!

So I wonder if they are infringing on the patent?
 
TonyWilliams said:
I'm sure folks know that the "Quick220" is patented.

I guess we need to know when that runs out, and I'll offer a "safe" version.
Tony - in the meantime I think a lot of folks might be interested in the isolation transformer version that works on any two circuits, including same leg and GFI-protected. Yeah, it'd probably weigh 50lbs, but it's much more versatile, no worries about patents, and much harder to do yourself than an "easy240" or whatever you want to call it.
 
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