EVSE Issue

2011 leaf, I have a blink L2 evse at home. I had intermittent issues with charging. It would take several plug in/outs to get charging going. It’s even less consistent now. So much so, that I’m only trickle charging, which has no issues. Someone suggested blowing the plug and receptacle with an air compressor, which seemed to help, but was probably just coincidental. I used a blink charging station at my kroger and it worked without issues, so I’m pretty sure it’s an evse issue, not an on board car issue.

I’m guessing maybe there’s a short in the cord/plug, because after many attempts and coiling/uncoiling the plug cable, I can get the charging started (it sometimes stops before charge is completed).

Is it worth repairing, or should I just buy a new evse? And please, any suggestions for an evse? Is amazon the best place? I see a bunch of different brands. Price point seems to be $400. I don’t need timers/stats/history. Is there a cheaper option? My ultimate goal is to have a Tesla in the next few years, so is there an option to future proof if that happens? Thanks!

I would try opening the handle and checking the wire connections, making sure all are tightly secured. Also check the 2 thinner wires (control pilot and proximity detection) all along their exposed length to make sure they're not stretched/broken.

If you do buy a new EVSE, I suggest Clipper Creek if you don't need extra bells & Whistles. Theirs are made in the US, with a 3 year consumer warranty. They start at either $400 or $500.

Nubo said:

I would try opening the handle and checking the wire connections, making sure all are tightly secured. Also check the 2 thinner wires (control pilot and proximity detection) all along their exposed length to make sure they're not stretched/broken.

Click to expand...

I wanted to try, but they used weird screw bits (5 Star with a center pin) to secure the handle. I guess I understand why they did that, but it stinks.

Rktennis said:

Nubo said:

I would try opening the handle and checking the wire connections, making sure all are tightly secured. Also check the 2 thinner wires (control pilot and proximity detection) all along their exposed length to make sure they're not stretched/broken.

Click to expand...

I wanted to try, but they used weird screw bits (5 Star with a center pin) to secure the handle. I guess I understand why they did that, but it stinks.

Click to expand...

Ifixit.com has nice screwdriver kits with most of today’s weird “don’t fix me” bits.

Nubo said:

Rktennis said:

Nubo said:

I would try opening the handle and checking the wire connections, making sure all are tightly secured. Also check the 2 thinner wires (control pilot and proximity detection) all along their exposed length to make sure they're not stretched/broken.

Click to expand...

I wanted to try, but they used weird screw bits (5 Star with a center pin) to secure the handle. I guess I understand why they did that, but it stinks.

Click to expand...

Ifixit.com has nice screwdriver kits with most of today’s weird “don’t fix me” bits.

Click to expand...

Found some on amazon. I guess worth a try. Thanks for the clipper creek suggestion

That sounds like it might be a proximity sensor issue on the J1772 connector. Check that when you plug in the handle, the latch on the top side is dropping down into the locked position. Check also to make sure there is no crap inside of the proximity pin:

I opened up the handle, but didn’t see any loose wires. I blew out the plug with a compressor again. It worked today without too much wiggling around. We’ll see how long this lasts.

Ended up buying a used Siemens versi charge from fb marketplace for $100. Didn’t come with a mount, so it’s not pretty, but it is functional. I’m just glad it wasn’t my on board charger.

Now I need to figure out how long my 7 bar 2011 will last and if it will be worth it to look into upgrading/replacing the battery. I’m hesitant to put $ in a 2011, but I also feel it’s wasteful to just have a throw away car that’s in otherwise good working order.