matson
Member
Southking SK-EV16 is a cheap "China brand" EVSE. Like most of the cheap Chinese EVSEs, it will work on any North American domestic electricity voltage: 120, 208, or 240 V. Its most notable feature is adjustable current: the available electrical current communicated in its pilot signal can be set to ten, thirteen, sixteen, or twenty ampere (nominal, actual signal can be slightly less).
Promoted as a travel-ready EVSE, the Southking SK-EV16 cord set comes in a zipping travel case. It has a NEMA 6-20 straight blade plug inlet (NEMA 6-20 seems to be the de-facto convenience outlet for EVs). Included is a 5-15P to 6-20C converter cord (for ubiquitous 120 V outlets). Two small things in the box are an Engrish instuction leaflet and a hanger for ICCB. Its hanger is a simple plate of plastic with a keyhole (to hang on a bolt) and two protruding pegs: to hang in-cable control box (ICCB), remove two rubber feet from screw wells, and reoccupy those now opened holes with hanger pegs. (Then plan how to not loose those plugs/feet.) The hanger pegs fit ICCB holes tightly enough, that I think it should be okay to hang outside.
I think fitting SK-EV16 in its case is impractical: it requires deliberate effort to arrange EVSE 'brick & nozzle' and seven metres of cable so it is compact and tidy enough to fit in its ziped-closed case. (Aren't most portable EVSE cordsets a chore to put away?) I think, if one is going to use the Southking cord often, then it would be better to stuff it in a drawstring sack or pillowcase in a hurry, than to fuss with its sturdy travel case. A sack is easily launder-able – versus the provided travel case, which is like a little suitcase: it looks so nice and clean when new, and it would be a pity to stuff a muddy EV cord set into it. With its case, it is better thought of as a desperation charge solution, rather than an "Occasional Use Charge Cord" to be used often.
In-cable control box brick (ICCB) is 2 by 3 by 7 inches (9" length including cable glands). Inlet cord (NEMA 6-20P) to ICCB is two and a half feet long. J1772 connector cord is 21 feet long. Converter cord ((5-15P to 6-20C) is 1¼ feet long. So maximum cord length in a scenario when it's used as a "desperation charge cord", stretched in a straight line from 5-15R to 'nozzle', is twenty-five feet.
Its cable stock is 3×2.5mm² + 2×0.5mm²; that's between 13 and 14 A.W.G., plus an extra wire. (edit: I think later revision lacks that extra wire.) This five wire cord is useful for modifications: adding an LED to J-plug "nozzle", or making a super long inlet cord to the not-cheap EVSEs which have a thermocouple in their inlet plug. Inside SK-EV16 control box, all incoming and outgoing wires are soldered, and there is really no room for hacks and mods. 5-15P to 6-20C conversion cord is 14 AWG.
SK-EV16 has a LED or O-LED display (I don't know what's correct), so it is readable even while wearing polarised sunglasses. But it is a scanning-type of display, which means it strobes (100% flicker).
Its idle power consumption is two and a half watts. (Compare to Nissan/Panasonic 29690-3NF0A: one watt. Compare to Ford/GM/ClipperCreek CC-C-L2-13-300-B, three watt.)
Its adjustable Current Capacity feature enables continual use on existing 15A circuits, and makes it somewhat future-proof. SK-EV16 has four EVSE Current Capacity choices: 10, 13, 16, and 20 A. (Not precise measures. It defaults to 16 A every time it is powered on.) For a lowest-common-denominator 15A120V outlet, SK-EV16 can be set to thirteen amps. For garage branch circuits shared with another appliance load, such as food frig or freezer, or a gas-heated clothesdryer, use this EVSE's 10A setting. Later in time, when the home is improved with a 20A (or greater) branch circuit to garage/outdoors, one won't need to buy another EVSE to supply one's automobile with greater than 12A: SK-EV16 is ready for future greater ampacity. It has a replaceable cord end plug, so it can be replaced at will with a NEMA 6-30P, without the waste of a molded plug. (Its original 6-20P can be retained or given to somebody else.) With an ideally located circuit breaker box, SK-EV16 can be wired directly to a 225GFI breaker.
I disregard the smarty-pants code-quoter (as irritating as a bible-thumper) who would say it's not okay to use it set to 13A on 15A branch circuit, "because twelve amps mustn't be exceeded". Thirteen is only a rounding error away from twelve. My specimen's "13 A" setting actually is closer to 12½ A. (Perhaps this is typical, and all SK-EV16 Control Pilot signalled ampacities are lower than nominal? Could be.) Battery charging is not a perpetual load, it will taper-down after a few hours, and three hours of charging from 13A230V is enough to replenish a daily commute. When I need to charge for several hours, then I can adjust it down to ten amps. Thirteen ampere nominal is fine for a daily top-up, I say.
As we all know, J1772 uses an analog pilot signal, not precise digital symbol transmission, so vehicle electrical current is nominal, not exact. My specimen announces allowable current slightly lower than nominal, at least at 10 and 13 amp setting. (My power meter's maximum current is 15 amps, and its overcurrent protection trips when I tried to test 16A.) When set to 10A, vehicles draw nine point something. When set to 13A, our LEAF draws 12 A and Bolt EV draws 12,5 A. I used it (set to 13 A) to charge Chevrolet Bolt EV from empty, which took longer than sixteen hours, on same circuit as a food freezer, and breaker did not trip. So I am not the least bit concerned about its nominal "13 A" rating not obeying the "80% rule 12 A". I tested it one time set to 16A, on 15A branch circuit, and circuit breaker did not trip within three hours, when I ended test. When set to 20A, breaker tripped after some minutes.
What I wish I knew before I bought it.
I did not know it would default to 16 A electrical current. To change current setting requires some patience: depressing a button lasting a couple seconds, followed by a few quick presses. Basically how to use it: with cord-set uncoupled from vehicle, depress its "SET" button until 2-digit 7-segment ampere display blinks. Then each press of the button will cycle the setting in increasing order, starting from default 16A: 20, 10, 13, 16 again, etc. After a few seconds pass since last press, user's selected current capacity will be set and stop blinking. One needs not wait for ampacity setting to display steady: as soon as desired current limit is flashing/blinking, charge connector/J-plug can be inserted. User's preference is retained as long as EVSE/control-box is powered, no matter how many times vehicle is coupled/disconnected. But if power is lost, even a one second outage, then pilot current capacity is reset to 16 ampere.
For my scenario, a 15A branch circuit and outdoors, it is too inconvenient to need to check it every time I need to plug-in. In rain or bitter winter, I want to plug-and-run to indoors; not bend down to hold down a button, and press it three more times.
Southking SK-EV16 is not as weather resistant as I had hoped. Unlike the "granny charge cords" bundled with our EVs, which are very water resistant, the Southking SK-EV16 lacks an O-ring or gasket sealing its control box. I bought SK-EV16 intending to leave it ouside on ground, but I am not confident it will survive. The originally equipped Nissan/Panasonic brick is doing fine there, exposed to puddle, splash, and snow.
What else to know about SK-EV16: it does not feature RCD/CCID nor GCM/GMI. This means it does not require a grounding/grounded outlet: it can be used with any old mains receptacle, even ungrounded "two prong outlets", with a ground-cheater plug adapter. It will not refuse to operate, in contrast to the original supplied Nissan/Panasonic 120V EVSE which does have GCM. As for lacking RCD/CCID: one can always use a cord-inline GFCI. (Modern electrical code requires garage and outdoor convenience outlets to be RCD protected anyway, so incorporating an RCD/CCID in every single EVSE sold is redundant.)
There is a minor compatibility issue with Chevrolet Bolt EV. While charge connector is coupled and latch is released then re-latched (proximity switch opened and closed), our 2017 Bolt EV does not resume charging. In other words, while the charge gun/nozzle/"J plug" is inserted in Bolt's AC inlet, and when button/lever on handle is pressed and released without removing connector (no uncoupling), then Bolt does not carry on charging its battery. Connector needs to be removed and reinserted, proximity contact needs to be broken and remade, for Bolt to again accept energy from Southking SK-EV16. Nissan LEAF and Toyota Plug-In Prius resume right away, as expected. Chevrolet Bolt EV does not do this quirk with other EVSEs. (This might apply also to Chevrolet's other EVs, Spark and Volt. I speculate Chevrolet programmed their chargers with very strict state machine logic.)
(SAE J1772-2010 says: 'Charge resumption after S3 closing is OEM specific.'. I thought this might be worth mentioning. I checked that proximity resistors R6 and R7 are to specification.)
compare against Duosida
The leading Chinese EVSE, 16A Duosida, requires a 20A electricity supply. I opine, it is not a good choice charge cord for "emergency" or "desperation", keep-in-the-car, role. Because its communicated current capacity is sixteen ampere, the 16A Duosida is not appropriate to use on the most ubiquitous outlet, NEMA 5-15R. It is fine to use when charging is planned ahead, when it is known that a twenty amp circuit is available. Whereas Southking SK-EV16 is ready to be used in a pinch on most-every premises/property. The 16A Duosida's connector is notoriously tight on vehicle inlets. That scares me.
In its favour, the Duosida features CCID/RCD. In favour of SK-EV16, its connector properly fits.
Southking SK-EV16, manufacturer's Web page.
Here it is from a merchant on AliExpress.
As of 2020 November, Southking SK-EV16 (with black J1772-2009 connector) is ASIN B08D8XWJ1H on Amazon.com marketplace.
The merchant behind ASIN B08D8XWJ1H did not create a nice catalogue page. I did buy mine from Amazon, sold by MICTUNING, who did make a proper page to show it off. It is ASIN B07QWRSMF5, "MICTUNING Level 2 EV Quick Charger", basically just a SK-EV16 with "MICTUNING" sticker on white J-connector. I guess MICTUNING wasn't happy with pace of sales, so when they finished selling what they had, I guess they closed the listing rather than restock. It is gone from Amazon.com, but its photos can be found on Amazon.co.uk.
( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QWRSMF5?tag=myelecarfor-20 )
edit 2020-12-03 add model number CC-C-L2-13-300-B
edit 2021-04-07 add following update:
I think the current revision SK-EV16, with black J1772-2009 connector, uses a cable with only four conductors/wires. My revision, from middle 2019 or earlier, has a 3×2.5mm² + 2×0.5mm² cable. One of those two signal wires is not needed, not utilised at all. I think I made out from a photograph, that newer SouthKing SK-EV16 (with black connector) has a 3×2.5mm² + 1×0.5mm² cable.
Promoted as a travel-ready EVSE, the Southking SK-EV16 cord set comes in a zipping travel case. It has a NEMA 6-20 straight blade plug inlet (NEMA 6-20 seems to be the de-facto convenience outlet for EVs). Included is a 5-15P to 6-20C converter cord (for ubiquitous 120 V outlets). Two small things in the box are an Engrish instuction leaflet and a hanger for ICCB. Its hanger is a simple plate of plastic with a keyhole (to hang on a bolt) and two protruding pegs: to hang in-cable control box (ICCB), remove two rubber feet from screw wells, and reoccupy those now opened holes with hanger pegs. (Then plan how to not loose those plugs/feet.) The hanger pegs fit ICCB holes tightly enough, that I think it should be okay to hang outside.
I think fitting SK-EV16 in its case is impractical: it requires deliberate effort to arrange EVSE 'brick & nozzle' and seven metres of cable so it is compact and tidy enough to fit in its ziped-closed case. (Aren't most portable EVSE cordsets a chore to put away?) I think, if one is going to use the Southking cord often, then it would be better to stuff it in a drawstring sack or pillowcase in a hurry, than to fuss with its sturdy travel case. A sack is easily launder-able – versus the provided travel case, which is like a little suitcase: it looks so nice and clean when new, and it would be a pity to stuff a muddy EV cord set into it. With its case, it is better thought of as a desperation charge solution, rather than an "Occasional Use Charge Cord" to be used often.
In-cable control box brick (ICCB) is 2 by 3 by 7 inches (9" length including cable glands). Inlet cord (NEMA 6-20P) to ICCB is two and a half feet long. J1772 connector cord is 21 feet long. Converter cord ((5-15P to 6-20C) is 1¼ feet long. So maximum cord length in a scenario when it's used as a "desperation charge cord", stretched in a straight line from 5-15R to 'nozzle', is twenty-five feet.
Its cable stock is 3×2.5mm² + 2×0.5mm²; that's between 13 and 14 A.W.G., plus an extra wire. (edit: I think later revision lacks that extra wire.) This five wire cord is useful for modifications: adding an LED to J-plug "nozzle", or making a super long inlet cord to the not-cheap EVSEs which have a thermocouple in their inlet plug. Inside SK-EV16 control box, all incoming and outgoing wires are soldered, and there is really no room for hacks and mods. 5-15P to 6-20C conversion cord is 14 AWG.
SK-EV16 has a LED or O-LED display (I don't know what's correct), so it is readable even while wearing polarised sunglasses. But it is a scanning-type of display, which means it strobes (100% flicker).
Its idle power consumption is two and a half watts. (Compare to Nissan/Panasonic 29690-3NF0A: one watt. Compare to Ford/GM/ClipperCreek CC-C-L2-13-300-B, three watt.)
Its adjustable Current Capacity feature enables continual use on existing 15A circuits, and makes it somewhat future-proof. SK-EV16 has four EVSE Current Capacity choices: 10, 13, 16, and 20 A. (Not precise measures. It defaults to 16 A every time it is powered on.) For a lowest-common-denominator 15A120V outlet, SK-EV16 can be set to thirteen amps. For garage branch circuits shared with another appliance load, such as food frig or freezer, or a gas-heated clothesdryer, use this EVSE's 10A setting. Later in time, when the home is improved with a 20A (or greater) branch circuit to garage/outdoors, one won't need to buy another EVSE to supply one's automobile with greater than 12A: SK-EV16 is ready for future greater ampacity. It has a replaceable cord end plug, so it can be replaced at will with a NEMA 6-30P, without the waste of a molded plug. (Its original 6-20P can be retained or given to somebody else.) With an ideally located circuit breaker box, SK-EV16 can be wired directly to a 225GFI breaker.
I disregard the smarty-pants code-quoter (as irritating as a bible-thumper) who would say it's not okay to use it set to 13A on 15A branch circuit, "because twelve amps mustn't be exceeded". Thirteen is only a rounding error away from twelve. My specimen's "13 A" setting actually is closer to 12½ A. (Perhaps this is typical, and all SK-EV16 Control Pilot signalled ampacities are lower than nominal? Could be.) Battery charging is not a perpetual load, it will taper-down after a few hours, and three hours of charging from 13A230V is enough to replenish a daily commute. When I need to charge for several hours, then I can adjust it down to ten amps. Thirteen ampere nominal is fine for a daily top-up, I say.
As we all know, J1772 uses an analog pilot signal, not precise digital symbol transmission, so vehicle electrical current is nominal, not exact. My specimen announces allowable current slightly lower than nominal, at least at 10 and 13 amp setting. (My power meter's maximum current is 15 amps, and its overcurrent protection trips when I tried to test 16A.) When set to 10A, vehicles draw nine point something. When set to 13A, our LEAF draws 12 A and Bolt EV draws 12,5 A. I used it (set to 13 A) to charge Chevrolet Bolt EV from empty, which took longer than sixteen hours, on same circuit as a food freezer, and breaker did not trip. So I am not the least bit concerned about its nominal "13 A" rating not obeying the "80% rule 12 A". I tested it one time set to 16A, on 15A branch circuit, and circuit breaker did not trip within three hours, when I ended test. When set to 20A, breaker tripped after some minutes.
What I wish I knew before I bought it.
I did not know it would default to 16 A electrical current. To change current setting requires some patience: depressing a button lasting a couple seconds, followed by a few quick presses. Basically how to use it: with cord-set uncoupled from vehicle, depress its "SET" button until 2-digit 7-segment ampere display blinks. Then each press of the button will cycle the setting in increasing order, starting from default 16A: 20, 10, 13, 16 again, etc. After a few seconds pass since last press, user's selected current capacity will be set and stop blinking. One needs not wait for ampacity setting to display steady: as soon as desired current limit is flashing/blinking, charge connector/J-plug can be inserted. User's preference is retained as long as EVSE/control-box is powered, no matter how many times vehicle is coupled/disconnected. But if power is lost, even a one second outage, then pilot current capacity is reset to 16 ampere.
For my scenario, a 15A branch circuit and outdoors, it is too inconvenient to need to check it every time I need to plug-in. In rain or bitter winter, I want to plug-and-run to indoors; not bend down to hold down a button, and press it three more times.
Southking SK-EV16 is not as weather resistant as I had hoped. Unlike the "granny charge cords" bundled with our EVs, which are very water resistant, the Southking SK-EV16 lacks an O-ring or gasket sealing its control box. I bought SK-EV16 intending to leave it ouside on ground, but I am not confident it will survive. The originally equipped Nissan/Panasonic brick is doing fine there, exposed to puddle, splash, and snow.
What else to know about SK-EV16: it does not feature RCD/CCID nor GCM/GMI. This means it does not require a grounding/grounded outlet: it can be used with any old mains receptacle, even ungrounded "two prong outlets", with a ground-cheater plug adapter. It will not refuse to operate, in contrast to the original supplied Nissan/Panasonic 120V EVSE which does have GCM. As for lacking RCD/CCID: one can always use a cord-inline GFCI. (Modern electrical code requires garage and outdoor convenience outlets to be RCD protected anyway, so incorporating an RCD/CCID in every single EVSE sold is redundant.)
There is a minor compatibility issue with Chevrolet Bolt EV. While charge connector is coupled and latch is released then re-latched (proximity switch opened and closed), our 2017 Bolt EV does not resume charging. In other words, while the charge gun/nozzle/"J plug" is inserted in Bolt's AC inlet, and when button/lever on handle is pressed and released without removing connector (no uncoupling), then Bolt does not carry on charging its battery. Connector needs to be removed and reinserted, proximity contact needs to be broken and remade, for Bolt to again accept energy from Southking SK-EV16. Nissan LEAF and Toyota Plug-In Prius resume right away, as expected. Chevrolet Bolt EV does not do this quirk with other EVSEs. (This might apply also to Chevrolet's other EVs, Spark and Volt. I speculate Chevrolet programmed their chargers with very strict state machine logic.)
(SAE J1772-2010 says: 'Charge resumption after S3 closing is OEM specific.'. I thought this might be worth mentioning. I checked that proximity resistors R6 and R7 are to specification.)
compare against Duosida
The leading Chinese EVSE, 16A Duosida, requires a 20A electricity supply. I opine, it is not a good choice charge cord for "emergency" or "desperation", keep-in-the-car, role. Because its communicated current capacity is sixteen ampere, the 16A Duosida is not appropriate to use on the most ubiquitous outlet, NEMA 5-15R. It is fine to use when charging is planned ahead, when it is known that a twenty amp circuit is available. Whereas Southking SK-EV16 is ready to be used in a pinch on most-every premises/property. The 16A Duosida's connector is notoriously tight on vehicle inlets. That scares me.
In its favour, the Duosida features CCID/RCD. In favour of SK-EV16, its connector properly fits.
Southking SK-EV16, manufacturer's Web page.
Here it is from a merchant on AliExpress.
As of 2020 November, Southking SK-EV16 (with black J1772-2009 connector) is ASIN B08D8XWJ1H on Amazon.com marketplace.
The merchant behind ASIN B08D8XWJ1H did not create a nice catalogue page. I did buy mine from Amazon, sold by MICTUNING, who did make a proper page to show it off. It is ASIN B07QWRSMF5, "MICTUNING Level 2 EV Quick Charger", basically just a SK-EV16 with "MICTUNING" sticker on white J-connector. I guess MICTUNING wasn't happy with pace of sales, so when they finished selling what they had, I guess they closed the listing rather than restock. It is gone from Amazon.com, but its photos can be found on Amazon.co.uk.
( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QWRSMF5?tag=myelecarfor-20 )
edit 2020-12-03 add model number CC-C-L2-13-300-B
edit 2021-04-07 add following update:
I think the current revision SK-EV16, with black J1772-2009 connector, uses a cable with only four conductors/wires. My revision, from middle 2019 or earlier, has a 3×2.5mm² + 2×0.5mm² cable. One of those two signal wires is not needed, not utilised at all. I think I made out from a photograph, that newer SouthKing SK-EV16 (with black connector) has a 3×2.5mm² + 1×0.5mm² cable.
oes it always start at a particular current setting? Which, 10 or 16? Or does it store/remember user's setting after days unpowered?
