2011 LEAF stopped charging, 21 DTC's logged

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darelldd said:
In the meantime, I've just purchased LeafSPY pro and a new OBD2 interface. Be here this afternoon!

LEAF Spy best investment EVER!

I have a Clipper Creek home charger, modified EVSEupgrade for the car. But I have new (er) LEAF and guessing port not worn out (196 L2's, 170 QCs) yet.... :roll:
 
It just keeps getting better! Tested the diode again today (I haven't tested it since *before* taking the car to the dealer the first time.

I found 85 kohm one direction and 67 kohm the other. :sigh: NOW what?
 
... and better.

On Aug 27, I found:
65 kohm one way.
87 kohm the other way.

Last night I found
7.95 kohm
7.5 kohm

What the heck is this diode capable of?

In addition, I used the "diode test" function of my fluke meter, and it comes up zero in both directions. I'm not convinced that this tells me anything though. Who knows what else might be going on in that circuit?

http://en-us.fluke.com/training/training-library/test-tools/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter.html

I've not yet taken the car back to the dealer, as I've found a colleague with close ties to smart Nissan people. Still waiting... and waiting...

If anybody can make sense of these measurements I've seen, I'd love to hear them!
 
not sure what the diode should measure but there "should be" a huge difference from one direction to another. I think that there maybe other things in the circuit complicating the measurement. Might have to pull the diode out completely to measure.

How much is the part? If its cheap enough and easy enough, I would be tempted to replace it. Its all about what its going to cost in time and finances verses the headaches of the dealership merry go round.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
not sure what the diode should measure but there "should be" a huge difference from one direction to another. I think that there maybe other things in the circuit complicating the measurement. Might have to pull the diode out completely to measure.
Right. And yet I have no idea where it physically resides.

How much is the part? If its cheap enough and easy enough, I would be tempted to replace it. Its all about what its going to cost in time and finances verses the headaches of the dealership merry go round.
A generic diode? $1. But "the part?" I have no idea. I'd love to "replace" it, but again, I have no idea where it is. I can certainly ADD one behind the inlet, but I don't know what that'll do considering the measurements that I'm seeing now.
 
I think it couldn't hurt to try at this stage. It might be easier to hack it into your EVSE, just for testing purposes. If it works, then you can splice it into the car's wiring.
 
darelldd said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
How much is the part? If its cheap enough and easy enough, I would be tempted to replace it. Its all about what its going to cost in time and finances verses the headaches of the dealership merry go round.
A generic diode? $1. But "the part?" I have no idea. I'd love to "replace" it, but again, I have no idea where it is. I can certainly ADD one behind the inlet, but I don't know what that'll do considering the measurements that I'm seeing now.

probably not generic. maybe a zener? I would think its closer to $20 (since all car parts are unexplainably expensive)
but who knows? could be $100 because its "genuine Nissan replacement" part... :)
 
Yes, I believe it IS relevant. And it points to a different diode that I've not seen mentioned before. And this leads me to believe that my only fix is in finding somebody who actually knows how to trouble shoot. Which sadly, is not my Nissan dealership.

What a well-produced video! Thank you for posting it. I'm going to go find EVs Enhanced and thank them too.
 
darelldd said:
Yes, I believe it IS relevant. And it points to a different diode that I've not seen mentioned before. And this leads me to believe that my only fix is in finding somebody who actually knows how to trouble shoot. Which sadly, is not my Nissan dealership.

What a well-produced video! Thank you for posting it. I'm going to go find EVs Enhanced and thank them too.
That is exactly the diode we've been talking about. There isn't any other one. You should be able to fix it by putting a diode inline in the pilot as has been described.
 
Ah. Thanks for that. It just shows that the more I know, the more I don't know. :)

The part that concerns me is the reading of X kohm in both directions. If there is already similar resistance in both directions, I don't see how adding an inline diode would solve the situation. But I don't know what else is in that circuit.

At the same time, I readily admit that my concern is born of almost complete ignorance.
 
darelldd said:
Ah. Thanks for that. It just shows that the more I know, the more I don't know. :)

The part that concerns me is the reading of X kohm in both directions. If there is already similar resistance in both directions, I don't see how adding an inline diode would solve the situation. But I don't know what else is in that circuit.

At the same time, I readily admit that my concern is born of almost complete ignorance.

path of least resistance most likely used.
 
darelldd said:
Ah. Thanks for that. It just shows that the more I know, the more I don't know. :)

The part that concerns me is the reading of X kohm in both directions. If there is already similar resistance in both directions, I don't see how adding an inline diode would solve the situation. But I don't know what else is in that circuit.

At the same time, I readily admit that my concern is born of almost complete ignorance.
The diode will cause there to be high resistance in one direction. That constitutes the "diode check". The EVSE looks for the negative part of the pilot signal being truncated because of the diode. The idea is to tell being plugged into a car and activated from the plug being dropped into a puddle. The EVSEs that skip the check are trusting their GFI circuits to protect them in that case.
 
OK, I'm back. Been spending all my time chasing down a different charging problem on my "project" EV, believe it or not. That isn't going so well either, but that one is all on me!

So back to my Leaf. I'll soon slip a diode in there. And I have several on hand... but know precious little about diodes beyond their basic purpose of letting current flow just one way.

So, I see this:
Info from GlennD: You could use a signal diode like a 1N4148 like both Chris and Nick use in their through hole simulators but the leads are fragile. For ruggedness a rectifier diode like a 1N4001 would have stronger leads.

The EVSE output is through a 1K resistor so the max current shorted at 12V is 12MA. That is so low that most any diode will work. You would install the diode with the bar pointing to the car. Avoid diodes like the 1N4007 that have multiple diodes in series in the same package.

So I hear these random 1N numbers. Then we hear that just about anything will do. But then I should also avoid units that have "multiple diodes in series." Ug. How can a guy tell which diodes have multiple in series??

Here's what I've got in stock in the shop:
1N4731 and 1N4003

Does anybody know if either of these would be OK to try? Or are these on the "avoid" list?
 
I had my first charging error last night. We were stopping at a local grocery chain with charging stations, and my housemate mentioned that she'd had trouble with one of the stations stopping charging after she plugged in her PIP. I rather foolishly tried the same station, and when I saw her holding the plug's trigger down as she plugged it in, I assumed that she had been leaving it ajar in the port, and that that was the issue. Nope. When we came back out, my car wasn't charging (and had added no charge) and when started, I got the yellow EV with exclamation point symbol. I drove home cursing, and plugged in at our L-1 station. It charged normally there, and when I started the car today, there were no warnings showing. I'll have to try it at another L-2 station, and hope that my car's charging system wasn't damaged...
 
I think it's common for states to have a "weights and measures" bureau that has, in theory at least, agents going around spot-checking things like gasoline pumps to verify their dispensing accuracy (at least, I remember seeing the "passed inspection" seals stuck on gas pumps as a kid). When EVs become more commonplace, maybe it would be in the public's interest for such bureaus to roam around, validating that EVSEs meet applicable standards.
 
LeftieBiker said:
I had my first charging error last night. We were stopping at a local grocery chain with charging stations, and my housemate mentioned that she'd had trouble with one of the stations stopping charging after she plugged in her PIP. I rather foolishly tried the same station, and when I saw her holding the plug's trigger down as she plugged it in, I assumed that she had been leaving it ajar in the port, and that that was the issue. Nope. When we came back out, my car wasn't charging (and had added no charge) and when started, I got the yellow EV with exclamation point symbol. I drove home cursing, and plugged in at our L-1 station. It charged normally there, and when I started the car today, there were no warnings showing. I'll have to try it at another L-2 station, and hope that my car's charging system wasn't damaged...

I have seen that DOZENS of times after charging on chademo. Its supposed to signify that the car did not receive the proper termination signal from station... you know the "Ok to unplug"
 
To avoid confusion, I've started my own thread for my situation and eventual (I hope!) solution.

It's been too confusing having two threads with multiple discussion threads. So I'll duck out of this one, and contribute only to my new one:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=24560&p=505289#p505289
 
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