Building a Timer for my EVSE

[TonyWilliams]

My Toyota Rav4 does not work well with the onboard charge timer, so I want to install a timer on the Clipper Creek CS-40/50 EVSE. It has two posts for switching; one is ON/OFF, and the other is ON/6amps to be used to power the car, but not charge it (the charger is looking for 8 amps or more). The switch is either OPEN (ON) or GROUND (OFF or 6amps).

I bought an indoor light timer from Home Depot, GE 15313, "Indoor In-Wall Digital 7 Day Timer". I like that it has a simple timer override button, and no neutral wire needed (I only have 240 volt at this location, no neutral). It also has a battery back up. GE does make another similar timer for LED lights that requires a neutral.

Phil has suggested that I use the timer to switch a 120v/12v "wall wart" transformer, then use a simple 12 volt relay (like on a horn in a car) to open and close the ground contact. This would, of course, require neutral for the 120v/12v transformer. Also, I could just use a 120v relay, as lots of home appliances use these, but I would still need a neutral.

I opened up the timer, and tried (unsuccessfully) to figure out a way to unpower that switched wire, so that I can eliminate the external relay altogether:

 

[garygid]

This looks a lot like a power supply, except for the battery backup on the back side.
Is there anything else under the big wires on the back side?

 

[TickTock]

Can you read the part number off the three terminal device in the TO-220 package (will have to bend it up a bit)? That appears to do the switching for the AC.

 

[Volt3939]

Why not look for a universal 12V supply? I recently found a wall wart rated 12VDC 1A out, 100-250VAC in for my OpenEVSE project for $5 at a local (Silicon Valley) surplus shop.

 

[EVDRIVER]

Since I do quite a bit of home automation and work with C4 if I want to switch large loads (without relay inputs) I use one of these:

http://www.cardaccess-inc.com/automation/products/index.php?a=details&i=8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The C4 system has an astronomic clock and I can set multiple timers and variables under any conditions, even a button press or event in the house or temp range inside or out. I can also trigger any relay load of any kind like the CC unit with a wireless relay trigger. Every power load in my house is controlled by the system controller, lights HVAC, skylights, etc.

 

[aries]

Tony - if you're looking for something stand-alone (no home automation controller) and multi-channel to control on off and also the 6amp limit separately.. Perhaps this would work for you?

http://www.altronix.com/products/data_sheets/DSAT4_B.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[garygid]

For more-channel timers, you might consider the
OpenSprinkler project, and change its settings
with a browser, using the Internet, from anywhere,
even from your own living room.

I made one from their kit, for my watering system.

More information:
http://www.google.com/m?q=opensprinkler+kit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Ingineer]

My Toyota Rav4 does not work well with the onboard charge timer, so I want to install a timer on the Clipper Creek CS-40/50 EVSE. It has two posts for switching; one is ON/OFF, and the other is ON/6amps to be used to power the car, but not charge it (the charger is looking for 8 amps or more). The switch is either OPEN (ON) or GROUND (OFF or 6amps).

I bought an indoor light timer from Home Depot, GE 15313, "Indoor In-Wall Digital 7 Day Timer". I like that it has a simple timer override button, and no neutral wire needed (I only have 240 volt at this location, no neutral). It also has a battery back up. GE does make another similar timer for LED lights that requires a neutral.

Phil has suggested that I use the timer to switch a 120v/12v "wall wart" transformer, then use a simple 12 volt relay (like on a horn in a car) to open and close the ground contact. This would, of course, require neutral for the 120v/12v transformer. Also, I could just use a 120v relay, as lots of home appliances use these, but I would still need a neutral.

I opened up the timer, and tried (unsuccessfully) to figure out a way to unpower that switched wire, so that I can eliminate the external relay altogether:

This is a 120v only triac-based controller. It will likely switch a 120v coil relay ok when powered from 120v, but will probably self-destruct if you apply 240v across it. They are using a non-isolated capacitor-based supply to derive the low voltage for the logic, and this has been sized for 120v operation only. If you replaced the cap with one with a 500v working voltage and half the value it might work ok, but you'd have to add a 240v relay.

It is also possible to simply run it off low voltage derived from the clipper-creek EVSE, in which case you could even likely forgo the relay, but that would require a bunch of soldering and modification.

My best advice is start with a relay-based timer, then modification is simpler, but if you really like this one, I'll try to advise you.

-Phil

 

[Ingineer]

After more study:

The "front" part with the logic clearly runs off 5V and looks like it has an open-collector output (pulls to ground) when the timer is activated. If you could locate a +5v source in the clipper-creek, you might just be able to wire it in directly, and not even need AC voltage.

I'd need to see more details of the PCB to give proper wiring advice, such as the part #'s of the transistors, and what's going on under the supercap.

-Phil

 

[TonyWilliams]

This looks a lot like a power supply, except for the battery backup on the back side.
Is there anything else under the big wires on the back side?

Nope, nada.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Can you read the part number off the three terminal device in the TO-220 package (will have to bend it up a bit)? That appears to do the switching for the AC.

Q4015L5
2EZ0J

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/switching-thyristors/triac/qxx15xx-qxx16xhx/q4015l5.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[TonyWilliams]

 

[TonyWilliams]

Unfortunately, the GE 15313 won't work with a transformer. It just stays on, and won't switch off (a really good default setting). It's using the neutral on the lamp to complete the circuit, and I'm not using a light. So, on to the next idea. Maybe the GE 15312, which uses a neutral. Some of these solid state lamp timers (Honeywell) need 40 watt minimum load, which I don't have.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Why not look for a universal 12V supply? I recently found a wall wart rated 12VDC 1A out, 100-250VAC in for my OpenEVSE project for $5 at a local (Silicon Valley) surplus shop.

I have a box full of those. I can't make this GE 15313 timer do the switching of a transformer.

 

[TonyWilliams]

For more-channel timers, you might consider the
OpenSprinkler project, and change its settings
with a browser, using the Internet, from anywhere,
even from your own living room

Even an app for Apple mobile devices.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Tony - if you're looking for something stand-alone (no home automation controller) and multi-channel to control on off and also the 6amp limit separately.. Perhaps this would work for you?

http://www.altronix.com/products/data_sheets/DSAT4_B.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It looks pricy, but will certainly do the job. It's lacking features like manual ON/OFF.

I wouldn't need any additional hardware, as the outputs are both NO and NC to a common. I'll bet it costs a bundle.

 

[TonyWilliams]

http://www.cardaccess-inc.com/automation/products/index.php?a=details&i=8

The C4 system has an astronomic clock ....

Here's one big plus:

100-240VAC at 50/60Hz

But, I'll bet this thing is REALLY expensive for my singular purpose.

 

[Ingineer]

Tony, I need the numbers (or a picture) of the 3 small transistors, and a shot of the PCB traces with nothing obstructing them, and I can probably figure something out for you.

-Phil

 

[TonyWilliams]

Tony, I need the numbers (or a picture) of the 3 small transistors, and a shot of the PCB traces with nothing obstructing them, and I can probably figure something out for you.

-Phil

Q1 - C9015 / C 018
Q2 and Q3 ST 9014C / J4 C

Working on a pic.

 

[hgoudey]

I don't want to spoil the fun of hacking your existing timer to work in your application, but there are a number of off the shelf 240VAC input timers out there for pools/spas etc., that probably cost less than your time investment to date, not to mention the time of all the other smart people on the forum willing to help, too.

This Intermatic PB374E timer has 240VAC input and a big manual override button for about $40. The relay is rated much higher than you need and appears to be tied to the input voltage, but you could cut the AC connection to the relay, or worst case switch another relay with it.
This pdf is the most information I could find on it. This one appears to override until manually released.

The Intermatic FM1D20-240U is a newer, slicker looking version, but the override button looks tiny and it is also pricier at $110. It appears that it might have a bare SPDT relay output, though. Specs from the manufacturer site here. This one overrides to the next programmed event.

Howdy