Do I really need a new PDM?

[15Leafowner]

Some Advise Please, I just took my 2015 Leaf in for service check. The EV system warning light along with the power limitation indicator light came on after a fast charge, so I took it in. The results; a new PDM, but I was told the DC/DC converter was fine the charging board is fine, the level 1 takes a charge, but not the DC fast charge. Was also told the li-ion battery cells are fine (it holds a full charge) no major past history, I bought it a year ago at 36000 miles, it has 50,000 miles on it now. Never had any issues until now. Just want to know if I am being told the right part is needed. The reason I was told needing a new PDM is that it somehow the fast charger passed to much volts and caused the PDM to short out. Does anyone know if that's correct? Because wouldn't the charge board be affected and the DC/DC convertor, or went out first? Any advise regarding this will be much appreciated!
I just don't have The $3,000 they said the cost of the part is, not including labor.

 

[macgeeknz]

Depending on your level of competency (remember this is high voltage!) you could look at removing the Chademo contactors from within the PDM to verify their operation (and check their contacts haven't been burnt out), and also check the high voltage fuse.

There are videos on these topics on You Tube that you could research if you want to take it further yourself, just keep in mind the risks

Here's what it looks like inside:

 

[cornbinder89]

Without the trouble codes which should be retrievable if the yellow light is on, people are only guessing. If it were me, I would try and re-set (after recording the code numbers) and see if it works fine on level two charging. It is possible something related to the level 3 charging has been damaged, but impossible to say without DTC's. If it is just the Level 3 fast charge circuit that has a problem, and it is proven it needs a PDM to correct that, you can drive in the mean time while you save for a PDM.
The Chademo charge path is different than the J1772 charge path, they eventually both end up at the battery but how they get there is different
I'd want a 2nd opinion before I plunked down that kind of cash on a repair.

 

[15Leafowner]

Without the trouble codes which should be retrievable if the yellow light is on, people are only guessing. If it were me, I would try and re-set (after recording the code numbers) and see if it works fine on level two charging. It is possible something related to the level 3 charging has been damaged, but impossible to say without DTC's. If it is just the Level 3 fast charge circuit that has a problem, and it is proven it needs a PDM to correct that, you can drive in the mean time while you save for a PDM.
The Chademo charge path is different than the J1772 charge path, they eventually both end up at the battery but how they get there is different
I'd want a 2nd opinion before I plunked down that kind of cash on a repair.

This is the price the dealer buys a PDM for. $320.27. and quoted me $ 3,000.00 not including labor! I think I can test the fuses myself and go from there. The funny thing is when asking the Cert. Leaf tech, questions about testing fuses and relays associated with the PDM, I was told by the tech that Nissan tells him he can't test the relays and fuses not to open the PDM, it just needs replacement. My reply, So who do I give thanks to for being the knowledgeable genius on Leaf repairs?

On Leaf

 

[cornbinder89]

You are taking about a fuse box, the dealer is talking about the HV power distribution module. Two different things, One is for the 12 volt system the other contains the inverter and charger.
I'm still not convinced that it is bad. Without trouble codes and more checks, everybody is guessing.
Unfortunately, dealer techs are ICE mechanics that have hopefully been given some schooling on EVs. There are some independents that live and breath EV's and don't spend a lot of time on ICE or the conventional aspects of the Leaf (brakes, steering etc) but specialize in the HV drivertain aspects of EV's. These are the types you want to seek out for a 2nd opinion.
If it takes a level 1 AND level 2 charge but not a level 3, then I doubt the problem is so bad that the only repair is to replace the PDM.
Used PDM's are available from wrecking yards if it comes to that. A dealer will be unlikely to install anything but a brand new part, and independent shop may.
Many Leafs were made without the fast charge option, and if mine lost just that, I wouldn't spend the 3K plus labor to replace it. As long as Level 1 and Level 2 charging was a option, I would carry on.
Again I would get a 2nd opinion from a independent EV shop.

 

[ACDCPhilip]

As has been stated by others, DC charging is much simpler than AC charging as far as the car is concerned.
The logic board in the PDM communicates between the car & DC charger to set the power to be delivered by the DC charger.
When the car is happy with that communication it closes the two contactors in the PDM which connects the DC charger straight to the battery.

It could be that on the last DC charge there was a problem which has set a fault code in the car which has disabled the DC charge operation.

You need Leaf Spy PRO to check if any faults have been logged & go from there.

 

[15Leafowner]

Thank you all for the advice. I will upload leafspy pro. Should I also invest in an ob2 and if so which brand or type?
Thank you again.

 

[coulomb]

Should I also invest in an ob2 and if so which brand or type?

Yes, you will need an OBD-II dongle for LeafSpy to talk to the car.

My recommendation is always any Bluetooth dongle except the cheapest and nastiest. LeftyBiker has the one he uses in his signature. I use one called VGate, but alas there are cheap clones with that name, and the cheap clones are to be avoided.

 

[Chad E. Mo]

From the LeafSpy Pro page:

With the release of version 0.39.97 LeafSpy Pro now supports two Bluetooth 4.x LE approved adapters. The recommended one is the LELink available from Amazon. Bluetooth 4.x LE has the advantage of not needing to be paired and lower power from both the Android device and the Leaf. The LELink is highly recommended and also works with the iOS version of LeafSpy Pro.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Turbo3.Leaf_Spy_Pro