Has any one try this Grizzl-E Level 2 240V / 40A Electric Vehicle (EV) Charger ?

[Londondrug]

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzl-Elect...VSLY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
I just bought an used 2022 Nissan leaf SV, however, the original 120/240 EVSE cable is missing. but the adapter 240V to 120V outlet plug is still there. If I buy this level 2 240V charger, can I temporarily put the adapter on the plug and use a 120V outlet before I install a 240V one?

Moreover, any good charger you recommend?

Thank you all for your suggestion

 

[cornbinder89]

No, I don't think so. The Nissan unit likely has a internal "switch" that senses the voltage and tells the charger which type it is connected.
There is a slight chance it will work, but the risk is overloading the 120 volt circuit.
I have read, that the charger will limit to 10 amps draw anytime it sees 120 volts.
If you want to try, my guess is a tripped circuit breaker would be the outcome if it didn't work.
I know my Primecom unit says it will work down to 100 volts, So it would work on mine, but I don't know on your model. Look on the spec's for minimum voltage it can handle.
I don't have anything either way to say about wall units. Mine came with the used car, so it is what I used. With the Leaf's 6.6Kw onboard unit, 32 amps is the max (27.5 amps 240, around 30 amps 208) it can draw. 40 amps is more than needed and will require a 50 amp branch circuit.

 

[Londondrug]

No, I don't think so. The Nissan unit likely has a internal "switch" that senses the voltage and tells the charger which type it is connected.
There is a slight chance it will work, but the risk is overloading the 120 volt circuit.
I have read, that the charger will limit to 10 amps draw anytime it sees 120 volts.
If you want to try, my guess is a tripped circuit breaker would be the outcome if it didn't work.
I know my Primecom unit says it will work down to 100 volts, So it would work on mine, but I don't know on your model. Look on the spec's for minimum voltage it can handle.
I don't have anything either way to say about wall units. Mine came with the used car, so it is what I used. With the Leaf's 6.6Kw onboard unit, 32 amps is the max (27.5 amps 240, around 30 amps 208) it can draw. 40 amps is more than needed and will require a 50 amp branch circuit.

Thank you so much. For your experience ,is it necessary to buy a 120V EVSE as a backup?

 

[Juicebox]

Yes. I have the Grizl-E charger you asked about.
I have it set for 32 amps. Very pleased with this charger. Excellent build quality and reasonable price.

 

[cornbinder89]

One would hope the OEM cord stayed with the car, I like having both, and if it runs low somewhere I have the 120 volt cable with me. That said I never had to resort to that yet. I have only had mine since November.

 

[Londondrug]

One would hope the OEM cord stayed with the car, I like having both, and if it runs low somewhere I have the 120 volt cable with me. That said I never had to resort to that yet. I have only had mine since November.

If it runs low somewhere, I still don't know how this 120V cable may help, no place to find an outlet to plug it into, except some friends or own cabin may work. Otherwise, why not just search the closest charging station?

 

[Londondrug]

Yes. I have the Grizl-E charger you asked about.
I have it set for 32 amps. Very pleased with this charger. Excellent build quality and reasonable price.

Thanks for your experience sharing. Does the lack of smart feature bother you? Do you find it hard to control the max charge rate to 80% without using smart feature?

 

[jhagani]

I got my 2022 SV plus. The 240 charger works at home, but not at work. It's a big factory with so many 240 V machinery.
The dealer says USA homes have 220V, and commercial places supply 208 V power only. I bought a 16A L2 charger from eBay and works just fine. Dealer says it is what it is, and nothing they can do.

 

[Londondrug]

I got my 2022 SV plus. The 240 charger works at home, but not at work. It's a big factory with so many 240 V machinery.
The dealer says USA homes have 220V, and commercial places supply 208 V power only. I bought a 16A L2 charger from eBay and works just fine. Dealer says it is what it is, and nothing they can do.

lol, I like your SV plus. I can only afford a SV.
Do you think the VSP sound is very annoying? I don't know how to reduce the sound.

 

[jhagani]

lol, I like your SV plus. I can only afford a SV.
Do you think the VSP sound is very annoying? I don't know how to reduce the sound.

The VSP is either completely disabled for forward driving on mine by the dealer, or I need a hearing test in the near future. The reverse sound is loud and can be heard by next block neighbors.

I still hope someone can solve the issue with the Nissan charger with 208 V power.

 

[henrydehoja]

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzl-Elect...VSLY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
If I buy this level 2 240V charger, can I temporarily put the adapter on the plug and use a 120V outlet before I install a 240V one?

I've heard great things about that Grizzl-E Classic model and Grizzl-E EVSEs in general.
Unfortunately, that model works with a 208V-240V circuit, so that 120V adapter would not work for it.
You can check out its user manual here.

 

[Londondrug]

The VSP is either completely disabled for forward driving on mine by the dealer, or I need a hearing test in the near future. The reverse sound is loud and can be heard by next block neighbors.

I still hope someone can solve the issue with the Nissan charger with 208 V power.

Can I disable the forward driving sound by our own or have to go to the dealer?
I agree the reverse sound is too loud, half the volume would be perfect.

 

[cornbinder89]

Evse's in the aftermarket, most are designed to function with a verity of input voltages and current limitations so to be almost universal.
the OEM, units only have to meet what the OEM wants. Likely they want it as cheap to produce as possible.
I stated earlier the one that came with my Leaf states in its specs it functions to 100 volt input. I have never tried to run it on 120 volts, but that is what the spec's say.
208 volts is hooking wires to two of the three used on 3 phase 240 and is a common single phase power when the main use is 3 phase.
Most all aftermarket function from 200 to 240 to accommodate the worldwide power variation, so any aftermarket would likely work with your employers 208 supply.

 

[jhagani]

Evse's in the aftermarket, most are designed to function with a verity of input voltages and current limitations so to be almost universal.
the OEM, units only have to meet what the OEM wants. Likely they want it as cheap to produce as possible.
I stated earlier the one that came with my Leaf states in its specs it functions to 100 volt input. I have never tried to run it on 120 volts, but that is what the spec's say.
208 volts is hooking wires to two of the three used on 3 phase 240 and is a common single phase power when the main use is 3 phase.
Most all aftermarket function from 200 to 240 to accommodate the worldwide power variation, so any aftermarket would likely work with your employers 208 supply.

Thanks for your information.
As I was told by our factory electrician, the 208V is a normal voltage at factories and commercial sites. We actually have a 20Kv line coming in, and broken down to 480, 220, and 110, (Sorry for my common language, electricity is not my field). so 220 is actually 208V. Even the Nissan dealer did not have 220V outlet at their shop, (208 only), and Leaf's original charger was not working there either.

Nissan of North America said it is what it is, the charger works with 3 phase 22 V, and frankly they didn't care in my situation.

 

[cornbinder89]

220/240 is the standard voltages for single phase in homes*, It can be in business also, but 240 three phase, when tapped across only two of the phases yields 208, which will run most stuff that is designed for 240 single phase. Because it is "close enough" most don't bother with the expense required to make 240 single phase in plants that have 3 phase. There is no reason it can't be done, it just isn't because the costs involved.

* the 240 gets split in 1/2 for most outlets and lights to 120, a few large appliances get "both legs" of the feed for the full 240 volts. It is why your breaker box likely has two rows of breakers.

 

[Edson]

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzl-Elect...VSLY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
I just bought an used 2022 Nissan leaf SV, however, the original 120/240 EVSE cable is missing. but the adapter 240V to 120V outlet plug is still there. If I buy this level 2 240V charger, can I temporarily put the adapter on the plug and use a 120V outlet before I install a 240V one?

Moreover, any good charger you recommend?

Thank you all for your suggestion

The Grizzle charger is pretty good, there is also OpenEVSE and OpenVolt which are good wall chargers. Here's a link to my favorite one: Open Volt charging solutions
It works on both 120VAC or 240VAC

 

[macgeeknz]

Can I disable the forward driving sound by our own or have to go to the dealer?
I agree the reverse sound is too loud, half the volume would be perfect.

You can disable it using LeafSpy (or other methods such as disconnecting VSP or VSP speakers).
I made a posting outlining the silencing of my ZE1 here which may help you further:

Silencing the ZE1

 

[Londondrug]

You can disable it using LeafSpy (or other methods such as disconnecting VSP or VSP speakers).
I made a posting outlining the silencing of my ZE1 here which may help you further:

Silencing the ZE1

Hi, I am following your "Silencing" post as well, but the Leafspy doesn't help to silencing the VSP for model 2021 and after. I need to find some other way.

 

[macgeeknz]

Hi, I am following your "Silencing" post as well, but the Leafspy doesn't help to silencing the VSP for model 2021 and after. I need to find some other way.

Darn!
Other options you can consider:
- disconnect VSP module entirely (it's easily accessible from behind the glovebox)
- note this will cause the VSP-off light to illuminate on the combination meter
or
- disconnect all of the speakers from the VSP (eg at the wiring harness connection)
- I have no knowledge of whether this is detected by the VSP (and causes aforementioned light to illuminate on the meter)
or
- replace all of the speakers from the VSP with 8 ohm 10W resistors (eg at the wiring harness connection)
or
- remove the EEPROM from the VSP logic board and replace the recordings with slience
- note this won't stop the noise generated when travelling forwards as this noise is not generated from a pre-recorded sample
- but it will still get rid of (or replace with other sounds) most of the noises

Good luck, I hope you prevail one way or another

 

[Londondrug]

Darn!
Other options you can consider:
- disconnect VSP module entirely (it's easily accessible from behind the glovebox)
- note this will cause the VSP-off light to illuminate on the combination meter
or
- disconnect all of the speakers from the VSP (eg at the wiring harness connection)
- I have no knowledge of whether this is detected by the VSP (and causes aforementioned light to illuminate on the meter)
or
- replace all of the speakers from the VSP with 8 ohm 10W resistors (eg at the wiring harness connection)
or
- remove the EEPROM from the VSP logic board and replace the recordings with slience
- note this won't stop the noise generated when travelling forwards as this noise is not generated from a pre-recorded sample
- but it will still get rid of (or replace with other sounds) most of the noises

Good luck, I hope you prevail one way or another

How can I do this?
"- disconnect VSP module entirely (it's easily accessible from behind the glovebox)
- note this will cause the VSP-off light to illuminate on the combination meter"