HOW TO: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) installed for $35

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They are T-10 style bulbs and just plug in and are supported by the socket. I did the same thing when I did my mod, but with a smaller number of LEDS, simply because I wanted the color temperature to match the LED headlights and the added DRLs... I guess one could also do both if one was so inclined...

TonyWilliams said:
That looks killer. Now we need pics to see how you mounted the bulbs in the lenses.
Good work!
 
Pin 57, which has a red wire connected to it.

rawhog said:
Please specify which place in the PDM you connected to. I tried connecting some DRL's to the power on fuse in the PDM. The problem with that was the DRL's come on when the car is charging.
 
rawhog said:
Please specify which place in the PDM you connected to. I tried connecting some DRL's to the power on fuse in the PDM. The problem with that was the DRL's come on when the car is charging.
See the OP...
 
Not off pin 57 they don't. There is a fuse that should work, but it's inside the car so running wires could be a headache. But that's up to you...

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6134&start=120#p164577" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
rawhog said:
I assume you are referring to Fuse 5 in the fuse block in the dash.
Correct. Though it is unverified at this point...
rawhog said:
But if I could tap the circuit you reference without using a crimp tap. I'd go that route as it would be less hassle.
I'm not sure how you could do that... Let us know if you find something. Good luck!

EDIT: Some have recommended Posi-Taps in other threads. Perhaps these would satisfy you?
http://posi-lock.com/posiplug.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
GeekEV said:
rawhog said:
I assume you are referring to Fuse 5 in the fuse block in the dash.
Correct. Though it is unverified at this point...
rawhog said:
But if I could tap the circuit you reference without using a crimp tap. I'd go that route as it would be less hassle.
I'm not sure how you could do that... Let us know if you find something. Good luck!

EDIT: Some have recommended Posi-Taps in other threads. Perhaps these would satisfy you?
http://posi-lock.com/posiplug.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I used these without an issue:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104093" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the PDM box with my Dremmel Tool and poked the wire through. Sealed it with some silicone. I also used an inline fuse to protect the circuit just in case. All my wiring conversion connections were soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing and then placed in wire loom. I used the mini ATC inline fuse and the smallest one I could find was 2 amps. This circuit energizes when the car is turned on or the power is turned with the second push of the on button.
 
The guys from the Nissan Product Design Team went nuts over the LED replacements and DRL's we showed them at the SF BayLEAFs gathering on March 4th. They even took pictures of the License Plate being lit by LED, and agreed that their standard bulbs made the car look "20th Century".
 
Here is my custom DRL, should I make a "smile" instead of a straight line? Definitely have to mod the license plate, it's totally in the way
Custom-LED-DRL.jpg
 
usadiamond said:
Here is my custom DRL, should I make a "smile" instead of a straight line? Definitely have to mod the license plate, it's totally in the way.
Yah, I would have followed the line of the lower lip of that opening. That also gets them out of the way of the license plate.
 
davewill said:
usadiamond said:
Here is my custom DRL, should I make a "smile" instead of a straight line? Definitely have to mod the license plate, it's totally in the way.
Yah, I would have followed the line of the lower lip of that opening. That also gets them out of the way of the license plate.
Agreed. Follow the curve.
 
I have to say. This thread shows some amazing work that all of you have done.

I have one problem and a question. I'm north of the boarder. I want to get a 2013 leaf from the states and bring it across the boarder and drl is a must here. Do the 2013's have the same pins and wires as the 2011 and 2012's? In other words will this mod also work fine with 2013's by using pins #57 and #18 for wiring the LED strips?

Thank you very much for the response. I have never seen a 2013 in real life so i cant compare it to the 2012's :(
 
Good question. I can't imagine they redesigned the PDM in the 2013, but it would be good to be sure before you go tapping in there. My suggestion is to get the service manual for the 2013 (search the forums here for where to get it) and check the PDM diagrams to see if the pins I called out in step 7 have the same descriptions. If so, you should be good to go!
 
GeekEV said:
Good question. I can't imagine they redesigned the PDM in the 2013, but it would be good to be sure before you go tapping in there. My suggestion is to get the service manual for the 2013 (search the forums here for where to get it) and check the PDM diagrams to see if the pins I called out in step 7 have the same descriptions. If so, you should be good to go!

That was my plan as well. I just took a look in the service manual and by the looks of the layout they look the same except the 2013 has 1 more slot with a 10A fuse where as 2012 and bellow were empty but thats not related to this topic.

What section did u get the signal name that its running on wires 57 and 18? In section PG (POWER SUPPLY, GROUND & CIRCUIT ELEMENTS) for connectors E15 (where #57 resides) and E12 (where #18 resides) its listed as an "Intelligent Power Distribution Module Engine Room" but no details on the signal that runs on either wires 57 or 18.

The colors r the same too according to the manual but im struggling to find the label for them :( Any tip is appreciated.

I want to b 110% sure that i can do this mod on the US 2013 leaf because if it doesn't work i cant legally register it or drive it in here across the boarder.
 
Good question. I'm no mechanic, but these service manuals are a bitch to read. In my 2010 copy, it's on PCS-15. See the Terminal Layout of the IPDM E/R section.
 
GeekEV said:
Good question. I'm no mechanic, but these service manuals are a bitch to read. In my 2010 copy, it's on PCS-15. See the Terminal Layout of the IPDM E/R section.


Good news. Just compared them both and they are the same in the documentation... the only small difference is in the 2012 manual it says when the power is on then the output is "6V-16V" where as in the 2013 manual they changed it to "Battery Voltage"

Also it looks like pin 58 can also be used instead of 57 but i will stick to what every one has already had.


Ok this just made my day... time to start the process with getting all the parts and paperwork and $$ i guess :p

Thanks a lot GeekEV. I owe you a beer :) I will keep you posted once i get everything is set, etc. it will probably take few weeks unfortunately :(

One last thing to ask... Is the 80lumien intensity strong enough to pass a DRL test? I cant see how bright they are from the first images you have because you have all the other lights on and you have the pics taken head on, but if they are bright enough to pass DRL test and be bright enough for others to see i have no problems in going with them here.
 
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