I want my 281!

[Randy]

how many miles and what is max distance you drive on regular basis?

I've had my car since January 4, 2011, and it currently has 10,800 miles.

I charge mostly every day (for convenience) - to 80% 5-6 days per week and 100% 1-2 days per week (mostly for weekend travel)...

An average day is anywhere from 15-30 miles, with some higher mileage days occasionally (maybe on weekends). 2-3 days per month, I'll drive 80-120 miles in a day and use public charging...

Car is garaged, and parked at work mostly in the San Diego sunshine (we have some shaded parking that I can get about 25% of the time on the afternoons)...

Car is driven about 75% of the time on city streets, and about 25% of the time on freeways...

Car has never been turtled, no VLBW, and only 2 LBW...

I've only seen 5 or 6 temperature bars on the car, never higher or lower.

I think I'm going to start a thread just for this type of data and GID readings....

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Wow Randy you do not fit the profile l of someone who is losing capacity. Keep us posted

 

[Randy]

Depending on what GID numbers of mine you use to calculate capacity loss, it is only about 6% worst case and could be 3% depending on the numbers you use...So I wasn't thinking that is excessive...Sounds like you might think it is?

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Depending on what GID numbers of mine you use to calculate capacity loss, it is only about 6% worst case and could be 3% depending on the numbers you use...So I wasn't thinking that is excessive...Sounds like you might think it is?

Not excessive.as a matter of fact, you are just about where I thought I would be right now

 

[xtremeflyer]

Boomer came by my house today with a Gidmeter to check out my readings. I have suspected a loss of about 5-8% based on my driving patterns and remaining miles when I get home.

The reading came in at 252 with a full charge, so about 10% from 281.

My profile, I charge to 100% every night. I'm in the City of Orange. It is garaged every night, but it is a south facing door, is not insulated and can get pretty warm. It had never occurred to me that this might be an issue until seeing all the other heat related issues.

I commute 72-76 miles round trip, almost all freeway and can sometimes plug into 120V for a couple of hours at work. Before I would get home with 6-8 miles remaining, now I get home with 0-4 miles remaining if I don't get a chance to plug in.

If I dip another 5% and lose my first bar, I'll no longer reliably be able to make my round trip to and from work. Decisions to make. With the resale value of the Leaf and haven't lost a bar yet, this might be the best time to trade it in and look into a plug-in hybrid. Not my ideal choice, but I don't know what other choice Nissan has given me.

 

[EdmondLeaf]

The reading came in at 252 with a full charge, so about 10% from 281.

My profile, I charge to 100% every night. I'm in the City of Orange. It is garaged every night, but it is a south facing door, is not insulated and can get pretty warm.
If I dip another 5% and lose my first bar, I'll no longer reliably be able to make my round trip to and from work. Decisions to make. With the resale value of the Leaf and haven't lost a bar yet, this might be the best time to trade it in and look into a plug-in hybrid. Not my ideal choice, but I don't know what other choice Nissan has given me.

That is surprising to me looking at average temp in your area. Was/is the door open to cool down garage overnight. It was my strategy to keep car in your average area during summer but maybe this will not work. My drive to work is also long.

 

[xtremeflyer]

The reading came in at 252 with a full charge, so about 10% from 281.

My profile, I charge to 100% every night. I'm in the City of Orange. It is garaged every night, but it is a south facing door, is not insulated and can get pretty warm.
If I dip another 5% and lose my first bar, I'll no longer reliably be able to make my round trip to and from work. Decisions to make. With the resale value of the Leaf and haven't lost a bar yet, this might be the best time to trade it in and look into a plug-in hybrid. Not my ideal choice, but I don't know what other choice Nissan has given me.

That is surprising to me looking at average temp in your area. Was/is the door open to cool down garage overnight. It was my strategy to keep car in your average area during summer but maybe this will not work. My drive to work is also long.

I did not mitigate the heat of the garage in any way. I pull in, I close the garage door. It had never crossed my mind that it would be an issue, but considering how I compare to others in my area, it might need to be addressed.

 

[Stoaty]

The reading came in at 252 with a full charge, so about 10% from 281.

Actually, 9.0%, but close enough for government work.

My profile, I charge to 100% every night.

Do you charge right away when you get home, or do you arrange to have your car get to 100% an hour of less before you leave for work? I believe it could make a difference, especially if you battery pack is on the warm side.

I commute 72-76 miles round trip, almost all freeway and can sometimes plug into 120V for a couple of hours at work. Before I would get home with 6-8 miles remaining, now I get home with 0-4 miles remaining if I don't get a chance to plug in.

I wonder if going that low on a regular basis is affecting your battery longevity. I don't know how to translate GOM readings into SOC even at those low values. Do you pass low battery or very low battery? How many bars are left showing when you get home. I ask because Tony Williams took his car down to turtle a number of times; it may be that your depth of discharge is harder on the battery.

 

[LEAFfan]

The reading came in at 252 with a full charge, so about 10% from 281.

Based on all the many readings I've done, you are at a 6% capacity loss.

 

[LEAFfan]

Question to the group:

I've had my car for about 18 months.

I've taken 4 GID readings after charging to 100% for 4 days in a row now to try and estimate my loss. I've also turned on the climate control after charging while plugged in.

My readings have been very close to 265 each time, although it went up to 268 after the climate control session...

My question is about how to calculate the loss. Since it has been reported that the 15% capacity bar is lost at around 225 GIDs, that corresponds to a full-scale figure of about 265, since 225/265 = 85%...

If I were to use 265 as my full-scale number, is my capacity still at 100% (265/265) or should I be using 281 counts as the full-scale value, meaning 'm at 94% capacity now (265/281)?

What numbers are people using?

Thanks, Randy

Based on my very accurate method, you are at a 1% loss of capacity. Congratulations!

 

[TickTock]

I think we need to crosscheck the 225 number. Unless I missed another post, this came from my reading immediately following losing a bar. However, I have reported ~15% loss since last October and at the time suspected my car arrived that way since noone else was reporting any losses at the time. I now wonder if I did, in fact, lose that 15% in the four months from June to October (I didn't have a CAN sniffer until October). However it is still possible that my battery baseline is different than the rest of the population so it would be good to confirm the 225 with someone who did, at some point, read a full 281 gids on their pack.

 

[Stoaty]

Based on my very accurate method, you are at a 1% loss of capacity. Congratulations!

If 265 is a 1% loss, I assume that 281 is 4.9% gain in capacity? The math doesn't make sense to me. If you have a certain number of gids, and you lose a percentage of them, how can the capacity loss be less than that? Remember that the capacity bars are very coarse, and the first one may only turn off when the Leaf is sure that you are below 15% loss and won't ever get back there again. I would trust the Gid reading much more than I would trust the point when you lose a capacity bar to be exactly 15%. I know that I can get about one mile of very careful driving per 1% of Gids. That gives me the best estimate of useful capacity.

 

[LEAFfan]

Based on my very accurate method, you are at a 1% loss of capacity. Congratulations!

If 265 is a 1% loss, I assume that 281 is 4.9% gain in capacity? The math doesn't make sense to me. If you have a certain number of gids, and you lose a percentage of them, how can the capacity loss be less than that? Remember that the capacity bars are very coarse, and the first one may only turn off when the Leaf is sure that you are below 15% loss and won't ever get back there again. I would trust the Gid reading much more than I would trust the point when you lose a capacity bar to be exactly 15%. I know that I can get about one mile of very careful driving per 1% of Gids. That gives me the best estimate of useful capacity.

He had 94% after a 100% charge. I had 84% after a 100% charge. Instead of using 100% as a base, I use 95% and it produces very accurate % loss readings. So he is 1% down, and I'm 11% down. I expect to lose a bar when my gauge reads 80% after a 100% charge.

 

[Stoaty]

He had 94% after a 100% charge. I had 84% after a 100% charge. Instead of using 100% as a base, I use 95% and it produces very accurate % loss readings. So he is 1% down, and I'm 11% down. I expect to lose a bar when my gauge reads 80% after a 100% charge.

That still doesn't answer how 16 Gids can equal 1% (281 to 265) at the high end. Assuming all Gids are created equal (80 wh per Ingineer, probably 75 wh useful energy), that would mean that the total battery pack capacity would be 281/16 = 17.5% when the pack is new. By definition, when the pack is new it must have 100%, unless pack is defective. Is this part of that "New Math" I heard about a few years after I went to school?

PS In what way are these readings "very accurate"? Based on the capacity loss bars, which I think are too coarse to give a good indication?

 

[LEAFfan]

He had 94% after a 100% charge. I had 84% after a 100% charge. Instead of using 100% as a base, I use 95% and it produces very accurate % loss readings. So he is 1% down, and I'm 11% down. I expect to lose a bar when my gauge reads 80% after a 100% charge.

That still doesn't answer how 16 Gids can equal 1% (281 to 265) at the high end. Assuming all Gids are created equal (80 wh per Ingineer, probably 75 wh useful energy), that would mean that the total battery pack capacity would be 281/16 = 17.5% when the pack is new. By definition, when the pack is new it must have 100%, unless pack is defective. Is this part of that "New Math" I heard about a few years after I went to school?

PS In what way are these readings "very accurate"? Based on the capacity loss bars, which I think are too coarse to give a good indication?

I don't really care what math you use or what ridiculing your sarcastic, infantile brain comes up with, because I've tested many cars and when the BCM reads 81% after a 'full' 100% charge, it's a 14% loss of capacity, NOT 19%.

 

[TomT]

Sometimes, Leaffan CAN be a real, well, you know... :lol:

I don't really care what math you use or what ridiculing your sarcastic, infantile brain comes up with, because I've tested many cars and when the BCM reads 81% after a 'full' 100% charge, it's a 14% loss of capacity, NOT 19%.

 

[Stoaty]

I don't really care what math you use or what ridiculing your sarcastic, infantile brain comes up with, because I've tested many cars and when the BCM reads 81% after a 'full' 100% charge, it's a 14% loss of capacity, NOT 19%.

I stand in awe of your masterful reasoning.

 

[TickTock]

I stand in awe of your masterful reasoning.

Reminds me of a quote from my all-time favorite movie:

• Man in Black: Truly, you have a dizzying intellect.
  Vizzini: Wait till I get going! Now, where was I?

 

[EdmondLeaf]

I have quick question is the GID SOC% relation linear, can I extrapolate without charging. Do not want to charge because I am in the middle of weird experiment. Car is about 50% SOC. Now outside 106F

 

[TickTock]

There is a lot of noise, but the overall trend is fairly linear. If you are at ~50%, extrapolation should be reasonably accurate.