Is this charger good to get? 3.3 on board charging

[jkendt1989]

So I finally was able to find a Nissan Leaf after about a month of searching and calling. I waited for the dealer to get one in stock and it just came in! I am going to get it this Monday.

Do to demand the dealer said that he ordered it with the charging package but Nissan sent it out without the charging package (This was all told to me before I put the deposit down on the car, he didn't order it for me)

The Nissan Leaf S will be coming without the quick charging package. Since it is only 3.3kw on board charging the max that it can withdrawal is 16 amps correct? This charging station should fit my needs with this car correct? If I understand correctly the 30 amp ones are only for the 6.6kw on board. With this charger it should charge my car in 8 hours verse the 21 hours of level one and verses the 4 hours of the 30 amp charger.

8 hours is quick enough for me since my car sits in the garage more then 8 hours per day.

http://www.pluginnow.com/power-max" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The 16amp/12' cord one.

 

[davewill]

Yep, that one will charge your car at it's max rate.

 

[toasty]

yes, enjoy it

 

[TimLee]

Or go with http://www.evseupgrade.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for $287 and save a few $, and also have portability and ability to use at RV parks with the correct adapters.

 

[jkendt1989]

Or go with http://www.evseupgrade.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for $287 and save a few $, and also have portability and ability to use at RV parks with the correct adapters.

That involves me sending it out and being without a charger for a few weeks correct? Also, it's a lease so I am not sure if they would deduct for the charger being messed with.

Thanks for the idea though!

 

[TonyWilliams]

Or go with http://www.evseupgrade.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for $287 and save a few $, and also have portability and ability to use at RV parks with the correct adapters.

I would absolutely second this recommendation. You'll get a 20 amp capable unit that is portable and cheaper than the wall mount unit and will work on 100 - 250 volts.

 

[jelloslug]

Or go with http://www.evseupgrade.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for $287 and save a few $, and also have portability and ability to use at RV parks with the correct adapters.

I don't think that's a good idea for a lease.

 

[TimLee]

Or go with http://www.evseupgrade.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for $287 and save a few $, and also have portability and ability to use at RV parks with the correct adapters.

That involves me sending it out and being without a charger for a few weeks correct? Also, it's a lease so I am not sure if they would deduct for the charger being messed with.

Thanks for the idea though!

See http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=faq_info&fcPath=4&faqs_id=23" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Mostly shipping time. But they do offer no time without it for $75 and refundable $800 deposit.
At end of lease, they offer a swap out of the unit.
Or you can sell it to some other LEAF owner who is wanting to upgrade their L1.

 

[planet4ever]

Or go with http://www.evseupgrade.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for $287 and save a few $, and also have portability and ability to use at RV parks with the correct adapters.

I don't think that's a good idea for a lease.

I can't think of any good reason for that statement. Can you explain?

There must be hundreds, if not thousands, of us who have leased and use the upgraded EVSE.

Ray

 

[klapauzius]

I think without the QC option, 3.3 kW somewhat limits the usability of the car.
If you plan to use it strictly as a commuter car, then that should be fine, but I found the QC option extremely useful whenever I wanted to go on "unplanned" trips. If there wont be any QC chargers in your area for the foreseeable future, then of course the above point is moot.

 

[RonDawg]

Even if there are no QC's anywhere near where the OP lives, the 6.6 kW (6.0 actual) on board charger is useful at public charging stations of at least 20 amps, since it significantly cuts down on the amount of time needed to charge the car, especially if this is a "boost" charge needed to get home or some other destination.

 

[johnrhansen]

I got the s model with the 6 KW charger and the chademo port. While I am very happy I got the option, You can very well live without it in most cases. However, you should make sure you have access to a ICE powered vehicle because charging at a public station while you wait is not a feasible option, unless you are very patient. It would work well if you were planning to spend 8 hours or so at your destination anyway. I'll put in another recommendation for the EVSE upgrade charger. While it's not my primary charger since it's level 2 current is limited to 20 amps (for the high power charger). Even if you get the low power version, you still can use the EVSE just fine as your car can only draw 16 amps. It's a really good charger. It's really nice because you can program the current it draws. I'd say everyone with a leaf needs to have at least the EVSE upgrade charger.

 

[jkendt1989]

My cars sit for over 14 hours per night. I drive 4 miles to work back and forth. Besides the weekends I can most likely live of of level 1 charging. I am only getting the level 2 for the weekends. 8 hours charge is more then enough for me. Plus this car is impossible to find in my area. I wasn't going to turn it down just because it didn't have the charge package with the level 3 that I can't even find within 100 miles.

 

[jkendt1989]

Quick question:

According to the manual the charging station takes two hots and a ground wire on a 20 amp breaker.

I have about 100' run.

12/2 on a double pole 20 amp breaker should do the trick correct? 12/2 is rated for 20 amps and I will only be using 16 so that allows for 4 amps lost over the 100' run.

I will use the white has a hot (tape both ends w black tape) I went to school for electrical and we did that all the time for switches.

Then just hook up the ground.

Am I missing anything?

 

[johnrhansen]

Sounds good to me, except you don't lose amps over a length of wire. You lose volts, and in your case it should be about 5 volts which is about 2 percent. Should be OK (you figure for 200 feet because the current goes through both wires). Good thing you have many people on here to double check my work... but if it were my project, that's how I would do it. I'd make sure that the charger is only a 3800 watt charger max. If it's bigger than that, you need to wire it according to the charger, not the car is is connecting to.

 

[hybris1]

I went with the clipper creek unit for my 3.3kw model s. It works great. Fast shipping and it has a 20' cord. Charges up to 20amps so more than enough for 3.3kw chargers. It is a couple dollars more than the Bosch unit but easier to order, 20' cord and made in the US.

http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/ClipperCreekInc/StoreFront.bok" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[TimLee]

Sounds good to me, except you don't lose amps over a length of wire. You lose volts, and in your case it should be about 5 volts which is about 2 percent. Should be OK (you figure for 200 feet because the current goes through both wires). Good thing you have many people on here to double check my work... but if it were my project, that's how I would do it. I'd make sure that the charger is only a 3800 watt charger max. If it's bigger than that, you need to wire it according to the charger, not the car is is connecting to.

You should check the National Electric Code about the voltage drop.
My guess is that johnrhansen is probably correct, that 12/2 with ground will probably be OK.
But if it was me, I'd run 10/2 with ground.
The incremental cost is pretty modest for a 100' run.
The greater resistance and voltage drop of the 12/2 just ends up being wasted power loss. Even if it is modest, better to run the 10/2 with ground for a 100' run. Especially for a continuous load that is running at 80% of the amperage rating of the circuit.

 

[TimLee]

See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=14200#p322830" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
Bosch may be same as SPX with REMA cable.
REMA has experienced a lot of crimp problems on the Blink units and now on this SPX.
Might want to consider that.

 

[surfingslovak]

See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=14200#p322830" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
Bosch may be same as SPX with REMA cable.
REMA has experienced a lot of crimp problems on the Blink units and now on this SPX.
Might want to consider that.

Bosch acquired SPX last December. The Power XPress EVSE was developed by SPX prior to the acquisition. The Bosch Powermax mentioned upthread is a re-branded Delta EVSE, which has no connection to SPX whatsoever. You might want to check the plug on the Bosch unit to see if it's built by REMA. Chances are that Delta uses its own J1772 handles.

Yes, I find the REMA problem quite disconcerting too. That does not automatically mean that Bosch is to blame for this, and all the EVSEs they market must be afflicted by this problem.

 

[johnrhansen]

I'm too lazy to look it up, but I remember something about 4 percent being maximum voltage drop, and that doesn't even apply to residential wiring as I recall. The code says for a 20 amp circuit, the minimum wiring size is 12 gauge, and the maximum continuous load on a 20 amp circuit is 16 amps. A typical residential construction uses far more than 100 feet of wire and I've never seen any up sizing done there. The only time I think I'd go 10 gauge for this kind of loading is if a motor was connected because of the high start up current. But it wouldn't hurt to go 10, and it would give you room to upgrade to a 30 amp plug in the future if needed.

Sounds good to me, except you don't lose amps over a length of wire. You lose volts, and in your case it should be about 5 volts which is about 2 percent. Should be OK (you figure for 200 feet because the current goes through both wires). Good thing you have many people on here to double check my work... but if it were my project, that's how I would do it. I'd make sure that the charger is only a 3800 watt charger max. If it's bigger than that, you need to wire it according to the charger, not the car is is connecting to.

You should check the National Electric Code about the voltage drop.
My guess is that johnrhansen is probably correct, that 12/2 with ground will probably be OK.
But if it was me, I'd run 10/2 with ground.
The incremental cost is pretty modest for a 100' run.
The greater resistance and voltage drop of the 12/2 just ends up being wasted power loss. Even if it is modest, better to run the 10/2 with ground for a 100' run. Especially for a continuous load that is running at 80% of the amperage rating of the circuit.