L6-20R wall outlet and 30A GFI breaker replacement

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vt586

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
11
Apologies if this belongs in the EVSE - section...

So turns out I already have "live" 30amp wiring into a box in my garage (I think previous home owner had a space heater attached there).

I'm getting a quote from an electrician to install just the outlet receptacle (L6-20R) and replace the aged 30a GFI circuit breaker for $180. I've replaced wall outlets before but never really touched breakers.

Good price (sacramento area), get another quote, or is this a DIY job?



thanks!
 
vt586 said:
Apologies if this belongs in the EVSE - section...

So turns out I already have "live" 30amp wiring into a box in my garage (I think previous home owner had a space heater attached there).

I'm getting a quote from an electrician to install just the outlet receptacle (L6-20R) and replace the aged 30a GFI circuit breaker for $180. I've replaced wall outlets before but never really touched breakers.

Good price (sacramento area), get another quote, or is this a DIY job?



thanks!

Honestly for $180 I'd be inclined just to have the electrician come and inspect everything and ensure it is all up to snuff. You'll have peace of mind and will get it all taken care of easily. Breakers aren't particularly more difficult than replacing an outlet but there is live voltage back there. You'd probably want to turn off the master breaker but an electrician can replace the breaker without doing it so that's an extra benefit.
 
I suppose I may be too naive for my own good, but I've done a fair amount of work in breaker panels and never considered it either difficult or dangerous, even when I leave the panel hot. Presumably you know which breakers were being used. You tilt and pull out the old pair of breakers, after which there is no voltage on the wires. Loosen the two screws so the wires slip out; slip the wires into the new breaker and tighten; tilt and push the breaker pair back in. Done! (I mean, how hard is it to know you shouldn't reach into the hole where you took the breakers out and grab those two bars, or poke a screwdriver down in there?)

Putting in the new outlet is actually somewhat more difficult than swapping the breakers because you need to bend the ends of the wires into a C shape so they will wrap around the terminal posts, and after you get them connected figure out how to cram the (rather stiff) wires into the box around the L6-20R. It should go without saying that you make sure the breakers are off before you start that. Given what you have, you'll need a square box cover to screw the L6-20R's tabs onto, and you should get a plug for that knockout on the side. Plus, of course, a plate over the receptacle.

However, 95% of your time will be the trip to Lowes or Home Depot.

Ray
 
vt586 said:
Good price (sacramento area), get another quote, or is this a DIY job?
Personally, I'd purchase a 20A breaker, an L6-20R breaker and cover a cover for that 2-gang box that would accept the cover for L6-20R and do it myself. Code may require GFCI (I'm not sure), which could increase your cost by $100.00 depending on the brand and wher you purchase it. You can often get overstock/refurbished ones online much cheaper.
 
planet4ever said:
You tilt and pull out the old pair of breakers, after which there is no voltage on the wires. Loosen the two screws so the wires slip out; slip the wires into the new breaker and tighten; tilt and push the breaker pair back in.
GFCI breakers also have a pigtail which runs to the grounding bar and those are often twisted into a curly-Q. As such, I would definitely turn off power to the house before fiddling with one of those. Those curly pigtails seem to have a mind of their own and try to drag across every other piece of metal in the panel!
 
If you have to ask about doing the job, then you
really should have somebody else do the job.

Then, you can watch and learn.
Also, you do not know the codes, and an electrician should.
 
It certainly can be a DIY job, but $180 is quite reasonable. Hell, you'll spend $40 or $50 running to the HW store and buying the parts...not to mention going back when you find you missed something. Go ahead and let the guy do it.
 
The GFCI breaker alone can be $50-$80, depending on the brand. By the time you buy the other parts, factor in your time and gas to HD or Lowes, $180 is a bargain...

+1 to what Dave said....
 
All points well taken and appreciate the feedback people...sounds like either way is a 'winning' deal.

Randy said:
The GFCI breaker alone can be $50-$80, depending on the brand. By the time you buy the other parts, factor in your time and gas to HD or Lowes, $180 is a bargain...

+1 to what Dave said....
GAS? like omg, whats that? Look at me, I've only had a Leaf for two weeks and already become a plugin Snob. :D :D
 
You do not need a GFCI breaker unless that outlet is outdoors or near a water source (sink, etc). Many 240v GFCI's are also prone to nuisance tripping, so I wouldn't do it unless you have to. You cannot leave a 30A breaker in, you'll need to change it to 20A for use with the L6-20R.

-Phil
 
And keep in mind that Leviton is now selling a GFCI that has packaging saying it's for EV use: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=T7591-PEV&section=42322&minisite=10251" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

f493aaed-05e2-4c45-8882-477736aa5a34_400.jpg


I'm not sure what makes it especially good for ev's, perhaps it won't nuisance trip as easily. And, it has a handy LED light for plugging in in the dark.
 
willk55 said:
Can you use a 30 amp breaker with a L6-20 outlet?
Thank you for this question...

Ingineer said:
You do not need a GFCI breaker unless that outlet is outdoors or near a water source (sink, etc). Many 240v GFCI's are also prone to nuisance tripping, so I wouldn't do it unless you have to. You cannot leave a 30A breaker in, you'll need to change it to 20A for use with the L6-20R.

-Phil
The outlet will be in a attached garage, about 3' off the ground, and away from any water source.

Thank you Phil. Advise well taken, for my stock EVSE will be on its way to evseupgrade. I read in other post about the upgrade already having a built in gfci for the downstream but I was just taking the electrician's word on the breaker side. Sounds like I wouldn't need gfci for this specific application (dry area evse charging).

So replacing 30A for 20A breakers...is it a matter of just buying the right fitting 20A breaker? No other "internal" work within the panel to accommodate the 20A breakers?
 
vt586 said:
So replacing 30A for 20A breakers...is it a matter of just buying the right fitting 20A breaker? No other "internal" work within the panel to accommodate the 20A breakers?
Nope, except that the old breaker will have one additional wire running over to ground since it was a GFCI. The new breaker will only have the normal two wires going to it.

(I find it interesting that GFCI is not required in this location since there was one there before. But I certainly agree to skip it if you can!)
 
OP: what brand is your breaker panel? A photograph (preferably with the cover off) would also be useful. This will make it easier to give you definite answers.
 
rumpole said:
And keep in mind that Leviton is now selling a GFCI that has packaging saying it's for EV use: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=T7591-PEV&section=42322&minisite=10251" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm not sure what makes it especially good for ev's, perhaps it won't nuisance trip as easily. And, it has a handy LED light for plugging in in the dark.
This will not work for 240v upgraded EVSE's.

-Phil
 
DoxyLover said:
OP: what brand is your breaker panel? A photograph (preferably with the cover off) would also be useful. This will make it easier to give you definite answers.
not sure about the brand. i know the house is about 35 years old though. i'll try and get a pic up later...
 
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