Leaf 2016 wont start.

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Aabusaif

New member
Joined
Sep 12, 2023
Messages
1
Hello everyone am ahmad from jordan...

I bought a nissan leaf 2016 from America and shipped it 5 years ago and the following happened:

-The first year went by smoothly with no problem as i bought a well serviced 35k miles car.
-the second year the car started with the t/m malfunction errors, changed the 12v battery although for an acid battery and not for a agn or lithium one as i didn't know it affects anything, and it worked just fine for a while.
-after that it got worse as i used to change the 12v battery every almost 6 months and when the t/m malfunction error came i used to reset the errors.
-Till lately, as i had to find a final solution i took the car to alot of electric mechanics with no results, alot of speculations and some tries with no help.

- the dealership in jordan fist said there is no problem with the car and after closer look they decided its the ac dc inverter and inverter water coolant. But am not sure about this as they didn't seem so sure about it.

-now the car even with a new 12v battery the car stops while driving and sometimes wont start in the morning especially after charging or after using ac.
And the errors dtcs stopped clearing out. And they are as it follows.


C118C 0109 ABS EV/HEV System BRC-126
C1A6E 0109 BRAKE EV/HEV System BR-146
C1A70 0109 BRAKE Brake Control System BR-160
P3178 000B EV/HEV ECU Activation Err EVC-245
P312C 000B EV/HEV Inverter Discharge Err EVC-213
P317A 000B EV/HEV Motor System EVC-247
P316A 000B EV/HEV Motor Speed EVC-233
POA3F 000A MOTOR CONTROL Drive Motor A Position Sen TMS-56 P1895 000A SHIFT Motor Speed TM-82

Notes:
12v battery is a new acid lead 45amp.
I tried charging it fully with a charger maintainer same errors keps coming for 2 days car wont start.
An hour ago i tried starting the car again and it did start no problem.

Please to help if anyone knows or had the same problem, what i should do.
 
Two suspects here are the shift position sensor, and, possibly, the 12 volt battery. Are you having the new 12 volt batteries installed after a full charging? If they are installed with just the factory 'shipping charge' that may be causing them to fail early. If the car malfunctions randomly, sometimes 'getting better' with no action taken, the I'd have the shift sensor checked.
 
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I have found twice now that if the car will not start that what ever the problem is that there seems to be a 2 amp load on the 12 volt battery. So this week it happened again and it killed the 12 volt battery for the second time in 2 years. So I removed the negative from the battery new 12 volt battery so it would not kill the battery. Last time(2 years ago) this same thing happened and it was the pre start resistors (?) that were gone and had to be replaced. These resistors are mounted on the traction battery so the 400 volt battery had to be removed so that you can access the resistors on the top.
 
Ahmad, do you have LeafSpy and the dongle? My issue with not-starting was resolved by clearing the codes, at which point the car would start. The offending code would return eventually and then I would have to clear it again. I just carried the dongle in the car with me in case I was caught away from home. Once you figure out which code is causing the non-start, you will have to troubleshoot it. In my case it was HV leakage current, but I was lucky it eventually resolved itself and hasn't occurred for a couple of years now. I don't think you will be as lucky so you will have to fix the car once you identify the correct code.
 
I have found twice now that if the car will not start that what ever the problem is that there seems to be a 2 amp load on the 12 volt battery. So this week it happened again and it killed the 12 volt battery for the second time in 2 years. So I removed the negative from the battery new 12 volt battery so it would not kill the battery. Last time(2 years ago) this same thing happened and it was the pre start resistors (?) that were gone and had to be replaced. These resistors are mounted on the traction battery so the 400 volt battery had to be removed so that you can access the resistors on the top.
My Leaf did check out that the Pre Start resistors are gone again, I guess I will have to pay the piper (the dealership) the $1200 dollars to remove the 400 Volt battery and replace the prestart resistors ($35) and reinstall the Battery. Flat rate shop set rate 4 hours out and 4 hours in. Actual hours involved is 3 hours total.
 
My Leaf did check out that the Pre Start resistors are gone again, I guess I will have to pay the piper (the dealership) the $1200 dollars to remove the 400 Volt battery and replace the prestart resistors ($35) and reinstall the Battery. Flat rate shop set rate 4 hours out and 4 hours in. Actual hours involved is 3 hours total.
Ouch, Tony, there's something else going on that's burning out your resistor. This is not normal behavior for a Leaf - This is a very rare problem you are having. While they are in there make sure they figure out what is causing it to burn out.

In my car, the cause was a small flood in the garage - batteries and water do not mix. It was a bit of work for me, but I was able to fix the battery pack for $5, the cost of the resistor from Amazon.
 
My Mechanic said that they have found that this is cold related because there is too much a load on the battery when it starts up possibly the rear defrost and the cabin heater on at the same time. Maybe I should move to Florida in the winter instead of staying in Ontario Canada for the winter.
 
I would need to check the wiring diagram to see if what they say is possible, but it makes sense after paying your $1200 again to make sure all current draws are turned off until the car is started.
 
My Mechanic said that they have found that this is cold related because there is too much a load on the battery when it starts up possibly the rear defrost and the cabin heater on at the same time. Maybe I should move to Florida in the winter instead of staying in Ontario Canada for the winter.
My 2012 Leaf is still not fixed and my mechanic is looking for a replacement resistor if anybody can help that would be great. This is the picture of my resistor that I need for my Nissan Leaf it is a 40 watt 30 Ω J resistor micron 1DC . Is there a retrofit that you can do? I could get a 50 watt 30Ω resitor but it does not have what looks like a interface for the computer.
 

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33R is a much more common resistor value, available in the same 40w ceramic package and works fine in the leaf.

The common ones don't come with the attached cables but you can cut the ones off your old resistor and attach new crimps, or replace with new cable.
 
33R is a much more common resistor value, available in the same 40w ceramic package and works fine in the leaf.

The common ones don't come with the attached cables but you can cut the ones off your old resistor and attach new crimps, or replace with new cable.
Thanks Sam, I would do the work myself if I had the equipment and a heated garage. Not knowing what this resistor does and how it was hooked up was the big problem. I am a licensed Construction and Maintenance Electrician and have almost a much experience on maintenance as construction. I am certified to work live up to 27000 Volts. I was thinking of upping the wattage on this because I think Nissan has under sized this resistor?
 
Sorry, but have to ask: How much are you certified to work up to when your dead?
You have a very smart bum, normally you are in a bucket truck which is isolated from the ground when you are working on it and you use rubber blankets for isolation. Thanks I needed a little laff.
 
The pre-charge resistor is switched into the HV circuit by a contactor during Start in order to limit the current into the capacitor banks of the motor drive inverter and the OB charger. It is only energized for a short time period and then the Main Contactor is switched into the circuit to carry the bulk of the driving or charging current. This is the relay clacking sound heard during Start up.

If the 12V battery is old, weak or worn out, then the switching of the Main Contactor may be impaired such that the Pre-Charge circuit is kept On too long and burns up the Resistor.

The ECU is monitoring the HV DC Buss voltage to reach an expected value within a short time; if it doesn't then it won't go into Ready mode.

The 50W 33R should work okay, just have to do whatever is needed to wire it in. e.g. re-use the old wiring
 
You have a very smart bum, normally you are in a bucket truck which is isolated from the ground when you are working on it and you use rubber blankets for isolation. Thanks I needed a little laff.
On the news programs they always say "and now we go over to our live desk for.." and I can help thinking have I been listening to the dead? I do have a sick sense of humor, and I'm glad you took it as meant, a joke!
 
Tony, here's the resistor I used to fix my car:

https://www.amazon.com/Tsnamay-Resi...00031&sprefix=100w+30+ihm,aps,152&sr=8-2&th=1
Now you should just cut the wires off of your burnt resistor and solder them to the new one and you will be in business. Good luck.
The 30 ohm resistors are suppose to be in today at the dealership what they are doing is they are going to parallel two 30 ohm 40 watt resistors togeather so that the wattage is 80 watts, chances are nissan did not take into account that the battery voltage drops in the cold which increases the current.
 
they are going to parallel two 30 ohm 40 watt resistors togeather
The wattage may increase, but two 30 ohm resistor in parallel creates one 15 ohm resistor... Should they be using two 60 ohm resistors?
 
The wattage may increase, but two 30 ohm resistor in parallel creates one 15 ohm resistor... Should they be using two 60 ohm resistors?
Sorry I told you two 30 ohm resistors I meant 4, 2 in series with the 2 sets in parallel making 80 watt 30 ohm. Only they found that they physically could not get them in the space so I am back to 1 33ohm resistor. So I have 3 spares so if anybody needs a 33 ohm 40watt resistor I have 3 spares. So my car was down for a month the resistor was around $15 and the labour was 10 hours (fixed rate shop).
 
Sorry I told you two 30 ohm resistors I meant 4, 2 in series with the 2 sets in parallel making 80 watt 30 ohm. Only they found that they physically could not get them in the space so I am back to 1 33ohm resistor. So I have 3 spares so if anybody needs a 33 ohm 40watt resistor I have 3 spares. So my car was down for a month the resistor was around $15 and the labour was 10 hours (fixed rate shop).
I think I may have figured out how this happened, I started the car up so I could warm up the interior and thaw out the windows while it was plugged in. Then I walked far enough away with the key in my pocket then the car put itself in non drive which stops the 12 volt battery from being charged from the DC/Dc converter and the 12 volt battery died. Not knowing the whole logic and wiring diagrams I am only guessing.
 
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